Recent content by littlebluexj

No I figured it out, I unwrapped the harness as far as I could and found that slot of the wires had melted together. I re wired them and everything works great. Thanks for all of the responses

I tried to do skittles diagnosing, with the plugs to the ignition switch unplugged. Her are my strange findings. With plugs removed, using a jump wire. Thick gauge Red wire has +power all the time (battery constant) If I jump the red wire to thick gauge Yellow wire. The jeeps...

I don't think so, I replaced the switch from my original column. It worked before, does anyone have a renix wire diagram for the ignition switch plug?

I am, the switch is adjusted in to the correct spot. Also I do not believe to index of the switch would give the starter solenoid power in both the acc and the run position. I check the wires at the column and find that all of the wires have +power with the key in the acc and run. This includes...

When the key is in (off) position it is lined up and the key removes. With the key installed I can rotate the tumbler back to an acc position. The fuel pump comes on, all accessories power up and the starter kicks on. It will start in this position, however the starter continues to run. When...

I'll trade you the lose of an hour for the cooler temp. I have acc/off/run/start, not sure if it should have the acc however I can turn the key back and it will distincly pop like there is a delent there.

Working on a 89' I just replaced the steering column with one from a 93'. I finish pluging everything in and went to start the jeep and the minute I move the key to the "run" position the jeep trys to start and when I move the key to "start" the starter grinds, this is because it is already...

Oklahoma is flat in that sense, no mountian roads, lots of hills on the hws but other than that flat. Also I think it comes down to poor previous maint. I have 345k on my 4.0 and AW4. I have blow-by bad and go through rear mains about every 5 months, howerver I run strait 70 weight oil and run...

I have been stock 3.55's with my 37's, 4.5" of lift for right around 2 months now, in the city it is slow however, I keep it in 3 on the hw and just took a 375 mile trip from Stillwater, Ok - Liberty, MO and did it on one tank. I would say I am getting decent milage then. However in the city it...

I had mine under the hood, removed the CC, AC, all emissions etc. I have removed all vac lines that are not needed. only ones left are brake booster and MAP. I have changed over to late model rad and removed washer bottle. The more simplist the engine bay is the easier it is to diagnose...

double post

Just needing some info about the heater on an 89. I removed the vacuum canister over the summer. Now it is winter and averaging -5 every morning I would like to fix a problem I created. When removing the canister I lost the control for my heater. I would like to know the location of the vacuum...

Just picked up last week, 35x12.50 15 km2's at the NBT in Liberty,MO for $765 out the door. I mounted myself "beadlocks" Their websit has them listed for cheaper the tirerack and discount

OK, just a note. I fixed the problem. The coil was rubbing the lip on the bumpstop. I dont use those bumps stops anymore so I just cut the bump stop off at the lip. Thanks for the help guys. William

well alittle., as in ,if you hold a strait edge to them they bow alittle. half an inch at most, but that is because the axles pinion is pointed up some to match the t-case. this is how it was on the previous axle. im going to go flex this thing out andd check for clearence when its fully...