Recent content by lawsoncl

Here's my technique: I have a piece of u-channel that I stick underneath, supporting the sides of the ujoint cross. Then I stick a big socket on the top and press on that. This forces u-joint upwards, and the upper cap pushes out into the socket on top. That way, you're only pushing one cap...

The ears look bent to me. Usually caused by the poor technique everyone uses to press them out. Pressing on the upper ear, causing it to bend if the cap is stuck. Besides the grinder and the hatchet, did you use a press or a sledge hammer?

Correct, solenoids are not involved with reverse.

Oh yes, the pilot bearing changed along the way too. I was referring to the change from internal to external slave, which a lot of people swap when the internal fails (again). The bearing retainer on the face of the transmission changed in 93/94. See pic here -...

There was a change from the internal to external slave in 1994.

Be real careful with compressed air and the heater core. That's a great way to cause a leak that's a bitch to fix.

Yes, they could be partially burnt. Try jumpering past them and see if that helps. If you have a meter, start measuring voltage at various points back to the battery ground. The wierdness with things partially working make me suspect you have a bad ground from the engine or chassis to the...

I'm about 75% sure the answer is yes it will fit, but there was a small difference in connection on the lid where the crank case vent line attached. Nothing that could not be worked around.

I'm assuming you swapped the rotor and as well. As I recall the older sensor was longer bottomed out when I did my swap. I ended up using the 98 sensor and making the electronic converter mentioned in the everything aw4 thread.

Measuring the solenoids resistance would be my next step, suspecting a bad #2 solenoid. I would also inspect the wiring down to the transmission for damage, including the wire that runs to the rear for the output speed sensor. Crank the shifter back and forth a few times as it could be a dirty...

You are aware that it will prime at key-on and then shutoff the fuel pump after a few seconds if it's not seeing rpm? I just want to make sure you're not chasing your tail thinking it should be powered anytime the ignition is on. Do you have voltage at the ballast resistor? Have you tried...

Start here. https://naxja.org/threads/everything-you-ever-wanted-to-know-about-the-aw4.1053970/

I just bought and used this one. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0CHJ7N8JS. It worked well enough. I didn't bother with the refill bottle and just topped off as I moved between wheels. The large bottle was much nicer than the tiny bottle I'd been using with a hand pump. My only complaint was...

Interestingly, putting a 20.5k resistor across the connector seems like it would convert some of those 98 values to 99. Example: 15400 || 20500 => 8794 2940 || 20500 => 2571

A bad O2 sensor might do it. Once the engine warms up and it tries to go closed loop.