Recent content by IdahoEagle

If you want to keep a T-5 behind that 3.8, get a CJ version of a T-5 and use your clutch kit and bellhousing with a Jeep clutch disc (same spline count and diameter, just a slightly different shaft diameter), and get a clocking ring for the 231 and make sure you have a 23 spline input on the 231...

I didn't realize they were a U-channel design. I was thinking they were floor, inside of rail and bottom... That's a little different story then...

I think if you make spacers for the floor side of the Synergy brackets that are the same thickness as the stiffeners, you should be fine...

I don't think he's worried about the quality of the brackets, I believe he's worried about how the stiffeners and the Synergy brackets will work together because of the added rail thickness from the plates...

You need upper WJ balljoints as well... They have a slightly different taper and will wollow out the hole in the knuckle if you don't...

That red 4 door extra shortbed wouldn't be that bad to drive. Like someone described it, very Explorer Sporttrac-ish...

Any closer to 2 door quarter armor for us 2 door guys?

And they were only in the MJ in 86 only. They had a housing as stout as the fullsize and had the obvious 5 on 4 1/2" bolt pattern...

The AMC20 was used only in 86, only had 4.10s, and some even had factory Detroit lockers but those were super rare when new, probably nonexistent by now...

The XJ/MJ 44 was used from 87-89 and part of 90... In 86 the XJs only had 35s, MJs used either the 35 or AMC20 in the Metric Tonne version...

Factory replacement heavy duty rear springs setup as spring under, ZJ rear coils up front (because they're 3" shorter and a little firmer than XJ fronts), alter bumps tops accordingly and see where it sits...

Any chance you have a steering box brace in the works for ZJs? I'm buying a 98 on 33s and think it would be a vehicle that would also benefit heavily from your brace design...

56" Chevy springs and fullsize Jeep rears like from a 76-up Wagoneer, Cherokee (76-83), and J-10 are a great solution. And why stick with spewing under if you are planning that much lift? I can see it with 2-3" and wanting to keep it simple and low...

And what about the stock WJ joints? Is there a clearance issue with them and 15s as well?

I did not specify backspacing because I'm wanting to know what the variables of clearance issues are and where with what setups before I buy wheels and bother actually doing the swap...