Recent content by gearwhine

I drove 4.56 with 33s on a manual in NJ for many years. It was perfect. I don't remember my gas mileages (I didn't care that long ago when fuel was so cheap). I now drive 4.56 with 31s on a manual in CO. I still get the same as I had with 28s and 3.56....about 14 mpg.

I run 4.56 on 31s with an AW4 in Colorado; it's used for both daily driving and rock crawling. I would not go lower (numerically) for my uses. It runs just fine up to 70mph (and a bit faster, but I generally have no desire to drive it any faster than 65 in most cases...the XJ is not exactly safe...

Canyonfireguy... it sounds like you are unsure of what you're doing (which is completely ok!), but it seems you're telling everyone that the advice they're giving is not correct. Many users here have done re-gears on the 8.25 many times. I just did one in December. We're not always right, but...

*I seriously hate that edits can't be made* It is likely the absolute worst feature of this forum. We don't have the same numbers as we used to, and the flame backtracking/pure stupidity barely exists anymore. Anyway.... By "torque the pinion (without crush sleeve)" I mean tighten the pinion...

The shims your got in your g2 kit are for pinion depth; those are the only shims that should've came in the kit and should only be used for pinion depth between the inner bearing and the toothed end of the pinion. I would start with no-shims on your new install, torque the pinion (without crush...

Truly...without some of these attachments listed and a bit of ingenuity, I find a hi-lift to be pretty useless. Much smaller and lighter items (scissor and bottle jacks) tend to work better for me most of the time. I still hold tight to mine (64") thinking the day will come that I really want...

Ha...sorry. I tried to make a semi-relevant joke. I knew what you meant.

That was definitely a thought/concern of mine, and the main reason I kept the bottom open instead of tubbing it out on the bottom (aside from also not wanting to spend that much time on it). There really should be plenty of air flow though, so it's less of a concern than it was when I was first...

I had my catalytic converter stolen off my Toyota pickup a few months back. I thought it was no big deal until I recognized Colorado went to CARB requirements in 2021. This has now made replacing catalytic converters extremely expensive. With that...a guard was in order for my Jeep. I ordered...

It is appalling how little information is on the main link, but clicking through their webpage yields links to reviews. It is indeed a spherical bearing/heim style joint. It is not a tapered roller bearing.

Honestly...I gave a suggestion for an upgrade you asked for, but I would have to agree with the many posters stating that there is absolutely nothing wrong with the stock control arms. I would absolutely keep them if my jeep were a daily driver only. Note: those arms I linked to you do not have...

Pretty sure most companies can offer them in any length if you call. I know that the Rubicon Express adjustable control arms are able to be shortened to stock length. I bought and installed them prior to lifting my XJ. Worked great and still work great. Adjustable is definitely not required for...

I'm sorry if my post is not 100% clear, but you're attempting to correct my agreement with your initial post. I just stated a 2nd way to turn the gears to leave a better marking.

If your pattern is not noticeably changing, I would agree you're not getting a good pattern. I do my pattern checks by turning the ring/carrier by hand. It can be fatiguing, but yields a very good result. I don't touch the pinion, so long as preload is reasonable. Are you setting your backlash...

Glad it's all working out....but that's a shame about the stripped threading on the bracket. I suppose you can always use a through bolt or add a helicoil. I have no idea why my photo link broke...reattaching one more time.