Recent content by azzy89

She settled around 135 STFT when cold, and around 115 STFT when warm. Might be that IAT (MAT) sensor causing that. Passed smog with flying colors, guy tested it twice cause he couldn’t believe the numbers. Thanks again Cruiser. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi Cruiser, would like to let you know that the 89 is running the best it ever has been since the map line fix. The rubber line is doing great. Thanks for all the help Cruiser it is all appreciated Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Great website and very useful. Thanks for putting the time and effort into it. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Yes sir. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Alright been 3 days with just vacuum line. Been working great so far, however STFT has been coming up at idle every time I start her up. Went from around 115 to around 128 to around 135, Following a trend that happened about 6 times before. Every time The jeep would begin running rich and...

That’s what I’m wondering. Yep all chyna crap now. How tough should it be to get the elbow on the map sensor? I had to take the sensor off and fiddle with it for a couple minutes to get it on and it was super tight. Not surprised that one ripped but super surprised that the one on the brass...

This is on 89 XJ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hey all, got a question about cruisers map line fix. Broke my map line doing the headgasket, I believe it was cracked or leaking anyways. Grabbed the parts from cruisers list. He says he used the same size vac elbows but the brass fitting (goes into vac port in TB) has 3/16 nipple but and the...

Good catch, my bad, still good to check cause all the new CPS s are made in China, unless you wait a year or two for Nick Risley (REM guy) to come up with a solution to that issue. Also good idea to back probe the connector on the harness side to make sure it is actually receiving that signal...

After reading all of the comments no one mentioned CPS, for craps and giggles try unplugging and cleaning the contacts for the CPS with electronic cleaner, and adding dielectric grease, or if you don’t want to go through the trouble, unplug CPS use a multimeter while cranking to see if it’s...

Here’s an article to check out https://www.google.com/amp/s/budgetgarage.net/2018/07/28/brake-light-fix/amp/ Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Well if something gets wired wrong you could potentially fry your TCU. But if you use it just as a switch it should work fine. Also keep in mind the brake switch is replaceable, I believe the TC switch is JY only. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

How close did you get the booster rod to match the original? Pics? Did you measure it with a caliper to see if the distance from center to outside of the flat part is the same? I’ll get a picture of how I set up mine. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

That switch should be your torque converter lock up switch, some people have used them for brake lights as well. For mine, when doing the WJ master and booster swap, I really had to mess with that switch to get it to function 100% of the time. I had to leave the bolt on the pedal a little loose...

IMO, if it’s got a bent pushrod, it has other issues. Either rebuild the motor or swap in a good one, swapping one in would probably be cheaper and you’ll get to find out if you like the Renix system, and any other issues it has. Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk