Recent content by amaymi

Your rich condition and your fans not coming on may be cause by the computer not getting a temperature signal for the engine. I don't mean to insult; but remember that there are probably two temperature sensors. One for the computer and one for the gauge. If you have them switched or for some...

I used a big pipe wrench coupled along with a long piece of round stock big enough to fit around the handle of said pipe wrench and stomped on it repeatedly. PB Blaster also helped.

I am using a bore gauge to measure the cylinder bore diameters. The spec I found was 98.4 mm. The measurements were made were after honing and and cleaning. I'd still like to get some numbers on the cam. Please understand that its not that I don't believe you, rather that I would feel much more...

Thanks for the info. Looks like my cylinder bores are within spec but I'll be needing to get a new set of lifters. Before I go out and pick up a new cam could someone give me the base circle diameter and the lobe diameter. Right now I'm measuring about 1.439" for the base circle and 1.690 for...

I just recently purchased a 1991 XJ 4.0 AW4 np242 completely stock with 189,000 miles and horrible rod knock on cylinder 1. I've removed the engine, gotten a new crank, and am in the process of cleaning her up and rebuilding it. I have a lot of experience rebuilding modern, multi-metal, ohc...

E85 requires a richer mixture for proper combustion. That's the biggest difference in flex fuel vehicles. When the computer senses that E85 is being used it switches to the maps for it. You will need someway to compensate for the richer mixture needed. From my experience with other cars usually...

Honestly this sounds like a head gasket leak. There are two different main indicators for head gasket leaks: Water in the oil, and exhaust in the coolant. It sounds like you've got the second indicator. During the combustion event the exhaust is pushed into the water jackets. If I'm correct...

x2 check for air in the system, also check to see if your pads AND shoes are low. If you bleed it and the problem continues the next place to check is your master cylinder. If you had a vacuum leak at the brake booster the brake pedal would actually get harder.

Even with a decent air impact in my shop I've had to resort to this method a few times. My worst experience with a harmonic bolt was completely my fault. I had pulled and was rebuilding an early 90's 1.9 liter Saturn motor and did not realize until I had it striped all the way down to just the...

The drive wheels almost always wear faster during normal operation and when using the same tires on all four wheels. Most of the time when the vehicle is in motion you have your foot on the gas whether your accelerating from a stand still or your keeping a constant velocity on the highway. The...

My first few steps would be: 1. Check ALL fuses with a test light. 2. Take some jumper wires and connect the window motor directly to a battery. 3. Check the drivers window switch to make sure its working properly. If those all check out go on to relays and checking if the wire has continuity...

I have to agree with birchlakeXJ, ECU's very seldom go bad. I've only seen an ECU replaced once in the time I've been a tech, and that one needed to be replaced because the car got hit by lightning. What ever the reason may be try http://www.car-part.com

A big reason not to use the front rotors and calipers is that you'd loose your parking brake. I'd go the route CherBear suggested and try using the rear brake parts from another Jeep.