Recent content by Agreen

I guess it'll just remain a mystery. It definitely can't be the low quality Chinese bushings, which are the only option currently available. /s

The answer to that is easy. Aftermarket parts are Chinese garbage. Yes, the ball is smoothly polished without any burrs or nicks. I'd just rather buy a quality part than spend 3 or 4 hours on a lathe making a set. I was REALLY hoping there would be an obvious answer. Like the Toyota bushing...

I've had the AX15 in my XJ for a couple years now. I've changed the bushings twice, and it's time again. First set was some garbage from ebay, 2nd set was Crown Automotive garbage. So my question is: does anyone NOT in China make shifter bushings for the AX15? 2nd part of this question: I...

Scratch that. I wrote this after only trying to reset the codes in my driveway. I took a drive and the CEL went away. So right now it's in park on the range selector, the park wires are wired to the clutch switch, and the reverse wires are wired to the reverse switch. It still does the low idle...

Info update: I have noticed a couple of things that are good info. 1) I was initially wrong about the NEXT key cycle thing. It's within the same key cycle that the code has to be cleared for it to stay gone. So if I turn the key to the on position, clear the code, then start it, that's the...

Are you sure there's no oil pressure? Did the engine make a lot of noise? Does the gauge work? Is the distributor installed properly? Why did you change the oil pump in the first place?

Hmm I never knew there was an option. https://www.naxja.org/forum/showpost.php?p=244936625&postcount=10 Good to know. I thought they were all cast :dunno:

Yup, that was my suspicion. It's a grand cherokee ecu. What sucks is that 1996 was a funky transitional year, so the ECU might be a little difficult to get the right one. I don't know for sure (specifically for the ECU) but I do know that 96's are known to have parts from a couple (maybe 3)...

Should be cast.

The only 2 that apply to the AW4 are the first 2. What's the part number on the ECU? (It's on the driver's fender by the windshield washer fill)

There are 2 connectors right by the dipstick. Fairly large, about a 2" cube shape. One is gray, one is black. I forget which one is which. One is for the transmission control, the other is for the range sensor (senses park, reverse, etc). Pop them loose and see if it's gotten water in them...

I prefer the crimp and shrink method actually. Solder seal connectors are just more convenient. Every OEM harness I've ever seen has crimp connections and splices, so I'd rather do that if I had the time. But an entire harness would take forever!

Whoa holy cow man no way. I'll reuse old u-bolts again and again, but compression fittings on brake lines is an absolute recipe for death. Use a flare tool and put the correct union on if you have to make a splice. I'm sure it'll work 9 out of 10 times, but I don't like those odds.

You can reassemble it wrong, but you also have to index it properly. If you just put it on and don't align it properly it'll never sense the correct gear. Use a multimeter across terminals b&c, loosen the bolts and rotate it until the meter reads a short.

He did say that he checked them already. I'd say halft the time people complain about an engine noise on a 4.0 it's lifter related, and the other half is because the torque converter bolts backed out a little. I had to keep tightening mine even with red loctite.