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Everything you ever wanted to know about the AW4

Ecomike. Did four drains and refills with Trans-X.
1/2 are perfect. 3rd is perfect.
4 and OD still not working. 4 almost wants to but can't.

I have some other things to look at and a new NSS on the way.
If you have any new ideas I am ready to try anything, ANYTHING!

You have put me on the right track, just a little more.


4th is OD!!!! Torque Converter, "TC" lock up feels like a gear shift!!! TC lock up can feel like 3rd gear and engage before or after 3rd engages depending on acceleration/throttle position!!!! I had hell for years figuring out which was which when I had no TC lock up due to wiring and brake switch issues. TC lock up issues tend to be electrical.
 
Ecomike, Okay, 4th is OD. Most of the XJ problems seem to be the old fool
doing the work.

Yesterday I got a good look at the NSS as it is mounted to the trans. I have
wires that are almost gone, corrosion and pestilence are rampant.

New NSS will be here in a few day and then I will RandR and take pics.

If that does not work it will be going to the transmission guy that everybody
recommends.
 
LOL, "pestilence" I just added that word to my Jeep cloaked Gremlin repertoire my young Jedi!!! Did you say you replaced the solenoids already?
 
Yes, that was the first thing I did. Of course after I had the old ones in hand
I learned I could have checked them in the trans. And of course the old ones
have checked out just fine. Valuable repair time was lost while I was kicking
my *ss around the RV park.

How much would gas cost to drive my Jeep over to Huston in third gear? I am
100 miles west of El Paso. I am sure you could better advise me if you saw
the situation in real life.
 
And the answer is?
 
96 XJ is back home here in the Land of Enchantment.

New Pump
New TC
all the other soft parts.
I guess it was a complete rebuild?
Plus some little things with engine, freeze plug, etc.

Drove home smooth.

Total cost>>>>> $1400 Got a nice discount for cash.
 
Hi, I am having trouble with the Toyota version of this trans. 1991 Cressida, RWD. Having trouble with limited info online, thought the Jeep version would be more common. The tranny would not shift out of 1st until slightly warmed up or driven. I flushed the fluid as I heard that would take care of that problem. No change in that problem. A few weeks after the flush something else came up. When put in reverse, the throttle needed to be applied. When the throttle was released it was like the brakes were applied and it would stop immediately.
When in neutral, it would creep forward when brakes released.
When in park the car would "relax" when shut off.
Any ideas on this? I will be unplugging the trans harness and test driving that way. I understand that 2nd won't work but everything else will when manually shifting. Not many used Cressida trans out there. Thanks all!!
 
Yeah those aren't exactly common in the yards, especially up here in the rustbelt.

My gut feeling is that you have a mechanical or hydraulic issue but hopefully I will be proven wrong by the electrical disconnect test. Good luck!
 
Hi all. Hoping to get some advice for my throttle valve cable replacement. I get the gist of it and know how to do it, just not sure how to unhook the cable from the top of the transmission case. Judging from pictures, it looks like theres a metal hook thats holding it down. Any advice on how to disconnect the cable with the transmission still in place?

Thanks!

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That clip is held down by a bolt that is annoying but not impossible to get to with the trans in place. Remember you will need to drop the trans pan to disconnect the cable barrel end from the spring loaded rotating bellcrank (it's very much like the bellcrank on a throttle butterfly where the throttle cable hooks on on a subaru actually) and hook the new one on, and that it is a sort of a bastard project since you have to keep the spring loaded bellcrank held wide open while snaking the new cable down to it unless you want to re-crank it without the cable to help. I don't envy you right now but it can be done.
 
That clip is held down by a bolt that is annoying but not impossible to get to with the trans in place. Remember you will need to drop the trans pan to disconnect the cable barrel end from the spring loaded rotating bellcrank (it's very much like the bellcrank on a throttle butterfly where the throttle cable hooks on on a subaru actually) and hook the new one on, and that it is a sort of a bastard project since you have to keep the spring loaded bellcrank held wide open while snaking the new cable down to it unless you want to re-crank it without the cable to help. I don't envy you right now but it can be done.

Thank you sir. Will be difficult but id like to avoid the $100-$200 the shop wants
 
Sorry to yet-again-revive such an old thread, but I have one more thing I need to know about the AW4. :)

I am about to put an AW4 into a CJ7 and want to use full auto shifting or manual. I have an option to get a good '99 XJ AW4 REALLY cheap. I will have to get the harness and TCU from a JY. Can I use the '98-01 AW4 with 90.5-97 harness and TCU if using entire harness and TCU, or still need the "adapter" circuits listed? Should I hold off until I can get either a 90.5-97 AW4 or a 98-01 harness/TCU, or can it easily mesh?

I know the first post addresses mods, but is that different if I use entire harness/TCU?

Finally, is the harness integrated into the Jeep's overall harness, or still stand-alone? I have gotten mixed info online in reference to this.

Thanks
 
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^Agreed.

Sorry to yet-again-revive such an old thread, but I have one more thing I need to know about the AW4. :)

I am about to put an AW4 into a CJ7 and want to use full auto shifting or manual. I have an option to get a good '99 XJ AW4 REALLY cheap. I will have to get the harness and TCU from a JY. Can I use the '98-01 AW4 with 90.5-97 harness and TCU if using entire harness and TCU, or still need the "adapter" circuits listed? Should I hold off until I can get either a 90.5-97 AW4 or a 98-01 harness/TCU, or can it easily mesh?

I know the first post addresses mods, but is that different if I use entire harness/TCU?

Finally, is the harness integrated into the Jeep's overall harness, or still stand-alone? I have gotten mixed info online in reference to this.

Thanks

Cool project! I did a 4.0L EFI into a '73 CJ5 for a friend's dad a few years back, but we converted to manual using the stock T150 or whatever it had (think it was a T150 but not sure) rather than swapping the AW4 as well. Had to use the Hesco front mount CPS conversion kit since the AX15 EFI notched flywheel and CPS mount bellhousing wouldn't work with the T150 without a lot of fabrication work.

In order:
- if you want to use a 98-01 AW4 with a 90.5-97 harness and TCU, you will need the adapter circuit, OR to swap the tailhousing, OSS, and OSS magnet rotor. If you get the 98-01 TCU and harness pigtails for it and the trans+other stuff, you need no adapter circuit.
- I would probably hold off till you can get a matching setup. If you need a 98-01 TCU and the harness pigtail for it, I am sure someone on your local NAXJA chapter classifieds is probably parting out an old rig and no one ever buys those parts, so they are probably still available.
- if you use the entire harness and TCU you can ignore most of the stuff I mentioned except spline counts and stuff like that. Reason being, all your stuff is coming from the same donor, so it should Just Work, basically.
- the harness is integrated into the XJ's harness. You have two options, gut the donor XJ's harness, strip all the loom and tape off and start splitting the trans-related stuff from the engine/body related stuff and it becomes pretty obvious what you will need. By the time you are done you will probably have a chunk of harness with some wires hanging out for SCI bus, CCD bus, brake lamp sense, TPS signal, ignition power, constant power (I think? can't remember if the TCU has this pin), and ground, maybe plus another few signals I am forgetting. At that point you splice it into your CJ's harness however you want. You can ignore the SCI and CCD buses, they're mostly for diagnostics and ECU comms and won't be necessary.

Stuff you didn't ask, but came up in my mind while I was answering your questions:
- remember that the AW4 TCU is going to want a TPS signal. If you haven't EFI converted your CJ7, you probably don't have a TPS and this is going to get interesting since I don't know how to mount one to a carb. It may be easy, it may be hard, I'm not sure, I'd look into using an 87-90 automatic 4.0L XJ/MJ TPS since they have a little flapper arm that can probably be rotated by the end of the carb's throttle shaft if you find a way to mount the TPS, and they have easier to source GM Weatherpak connectors. I'm not 100% sure that the TPSes for HO and RENIX are the same resistance/voltage curve, but I would be rather surprised if they aren't all linear and it's just a matter of setting the right 0% throttle reference voltage by adjusting the TPS's position.
- Make sure you get the right spline count AW4 so your tcase bolts to it nicely. IIRC, a dana 300 has 23 splines, if you don't have the round bolt pattern and instead have the texas bolt pattern it might get interesting to attach the two. If you have the round pattern, a simple clocking ring generally used by XJ enthusiasts to put CJ7 D300s into XJs should do the trick nicely.
- It's too bad you're a thousand miles away because this kind of project is something I find fun. If you were up here and had electrical issues with it I'd say drop on by with some beer and we'll make it work.
- If you don't feel like gutting the donor's harness at the junkyard or can't for one reason or another, just make sure you get pigtails for each connector (NSS, trans sensors+solenoids, TCU) with 6+ inches of wire included. At that point you can very easily splice up your own harness that connects them all together working in the shop, it's pretty self explanatory and mostly just color matching. If you need wiring diagrams with color codes for your eventual donor's specific model-year, let me know and I'll find them.

edit: I know for a fact I have a 97-down style OSS and 4x4 AW4 tailhousing sitting in my upstairs hallway right now, and assuming I do the 4x4+5-speed conversion on my 88 MJ soon, will have a donor for the rotor and its snaprings. If you want them, they are yours for the price of shipping (payable upon receipt), but I can't guarantee when I'll be doing the MJ's swap or how long it'll be before I remember to ship stuff to you.
 
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Thanks. I have been reading more since I last posted. I did know I needs a TPS, and found an example of where a guy installed a 2WD AW4 in an AMC car, and he just made a TPS mounting bracket. I feel confident I can figure it out.

I did get a TPU and pigtails from a '99 XJ, and that (along with the trans end cables) will reach fine, so didn't need whole harness or extended wires.

I'm glad you mentioned the data lines, I had planned on deleting those and hoping the TPU didn't care.

I will be tapping off of the 12v ignition inside TPU and regulating down to 5v (all mounted inside TPU box) for the TPS power.

The D300 sits about 7/8" away from AW4 after the t-case input bearing/seal retainer bottoms out by the AW4 output seal. I was able to bring this down some by machining "excess" from the retainer. Then I made a steel 3/4" spacer, but didn't need to clock, so was saved that extra work.

Now my challenges are getting fittings to fit the cooking lines closer to the case, and modding dipstick tube to sit closer to case, as I have a passenger side drop t-case and don't want driveshaft clearance issues.

One other challenge is that I hope to have a selectable manual shift mode, but wanted to use a rotary switch for solenoids. My concern is the moment between switch positions where both solenoid lose power for a fraction of a second. This would turn a 1-2 shift into a 1-4-2 shift, and a 2-3 shift into a 2-4-3, and th same in reverse a order. Will this be a problem, or will it be so fast that it doesn't matter?

Thanks for your help and any other input. I really appreciate it.
 
It should be fast enough to not matter - and also, if you look closely at the shift pattern, you'll note that only one solenoid changes state from any gear to any adjacent gear in the chart. This wasn't done by accident, it's known as a "grey code" in computer engineering and is chosen specifically to avoid the problem you noted. You can buy what's known as a "make before break" configuration rotary switch which will avoid the momentary fourth gear shifts between detents.

I actually built just such a rotary shifter for testing in 2010 when I was actively working on some custom AW4 stuff. I used a double pole, four position make before break rotary switch so that I could simply use one pole for each shift solenoid. Were I to do this today, I'd also add a TCC lockup control using a toggle switch fed through a relay or two wired such that the relay only enables the toggle switch when the brake lamps are off AND the shifter knob is in 3 or OD. Shouldn't be too too hard to rig up.
 
Okay quick question transmission gurus, 98 aw4 into a 97. Just gotta swap tail cone, rotor, oss......correct? Orrrr better off getting rid of the 98 aw4. I don't NEED the 98, but it was 30$ with 70k on it and was told it was a 97, then i saw the ISS. But for the price I couldn't pass it up.

Sent from my SM-G900P using Tapatalk
 
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