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np231 help

ProjectSloth

NAXJA Forum User
Location
northern cali
Hi guys, need some help.

got a SYE from rugged ridge (thats what the box says) it was purchased through Iron Rock offroad.

It seemed like a simple procedure, until the drive gear from my old shaft didnt fit the new shorter shaft. The bearing surface is a larger diameter, i dont know by how much (no micrometer).

Has anyone else experienced this type of issue?
I talked to Zack at IRO and hes looking into it, but i was just hoping to get some answers on my own because i know you guys are a wealth of knowledge.

thanks!
-Truman
 
so then after that i just run the sprocket on the new shorter shaft with no bearings?

SYE kit didnt come with any that would fit and neither did my 231 overhaul kit.

thanks for the help guys
 
It'll go on the SYE shaft as it came off the old one, minus the bearings. The kits are pretty simple, just watch the shift shaft. If that isn't correct, it won't shift right.
 
Yep, around 96/97 the 231 went to an oil film bearing at that location. Pretty much coincided with the intro of the TJ for the 97 model year (so starting late 96). Usually referred to as a TJ style shaft as a result.
 
It'll go on the SYE shaft as it came off the old one, minus the bearings. The kits are pretty simple, just watch the shift shaft. If that isn't correct, it won't shift right.

if by "just watch the shift shaft" do you mean cut it down?
i got the sprocket on, junked the needle bearings.
started putting it back together and the new tailhousing that came with the SYE, doesnt have enough room to clear the part of the shift shaft that comes out of the t-case...

im thinking that i can just shift it all the way in and mark it where it would be flush with the housing and just lop off the part that i no longer need (part that would activate the vac disco axle)

thoughts anyone?
 
Yep, around 96/97 the 231 went to an oil film bearing at that location. Pretty much coincided with the intro of the TJ for the 97 model year (so starting late 96). Usually referred to as a TJ style shaft as a result.

thx devilfrog, i knew there were little changes through the years but i couldn't find it on the internet, so i gave up and came to you guys.
 
You do not need to modify the shift shaft. You'll have to play with it to get it settled into the transfer case so you can put the tail housing on.
 
You do not need to modify the shift shaft. You'll have to play with it to get it settled into the transfer case so you can put the tail housing on.

This thing is pretty "settled in" granted I have it in the gear that would have the fork shaft protruding as much as possible. I know it’s settled because the guide pin is resting on the shift mechanism and the other gear pin is also engaged into the shift mechanism...

Even if it can settle some more there still remains quite a disparity between the two housings, I don’t know how the same shaft will fit in both these housings

http://imgur.com/a/vYAQV
 
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This thing is pretty "settled in" granted I have it in the gear that would have the fork shaft protruding as much as possible. I know it’s settled because the guide pin is resting on the shift mechanism and the other gear pin is also engaged into the shift mechanism...

Even if it can settle some more there still remains quite a disparity between the two housings, I don’t know how the same shaft will fit in both these housings

http://imgur.com/a/vYAQV

231 AMC,.... never seen one before.
As indicated in the second picture there seem to be quite a bit of difference between the old tail housing and the new tail housing in the area of the shift shaft. My call would be to cut the shift shaft.
 
The directions for my kit, which I just put in 2 weeks ago, tells you to measure the shaft, and cut it to 9.380". I have also seen kits that give you the protrusion length from the main case.

Either way, if you had to deal with the cage bearings, chances are good you also need to cut the shaft down.

I didn't have to do either on my 96.

The directions, which I read several times before I started, explained all of this, and even had warnings for when you needed to check important stuff.
 
The directions for my kit, which I just put in 2 weeks ago, tells you to measure the shaft, and cut it to 9.380". I have also seen kits that give you the protrusion length from the main case.

Either way, if you had to deal with the cage bearings, chances are good you also need to cut the shaft down.

I didn't have to do either on my 96.

The directions, which I read several times before I started, explained all of this, and even had warnings for when you needed to check important stuff.
This

Older t-cases have a longer shaft that has to be cut down.
 
Thanks guys. This is kinda my fault. I don't have directions. I downloaded a 231 factory service manual for the re-assembly torque specs but I have no SYE install directions. I figured it was straight forward and simple ( hell the box only had three main parts ).

I came here instead of going to the company because I figured around this time of year, I would get a response quicker from fellow jeepers.

Thanks again and happy holidays!

-Truman
 
Follow the directions dude. Its walks you thru step by step. I got one from JB, but they're all the same. Download the PDF file and print out the instructions at home. Follow then exact. Use common sense, it'll be fine.

Make sure you don't overtighten case bolts... Its just aluminum. Use good RTV to seal her up, and test shift it... Turn the outputs, make sure everything spins, and shifts. That's it.
 
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