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D35 drain fill plug

88manche

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Portland, Oregon
How do you get it out? Mine WILL NOT BUDGE. Ive tried everything short of a sawzall or plasma cutter.

Its an allen head, but I have no clue what size it takes. Its none of the sizes I have. Does anyone know?

Also, Whats a reasonable sale price for a good D35, Non C-clip, non ABS, with 3.73 gears, but no springs, drums, and no shock mounts? It didn't howl when it was taken out, and the shafts are good.
 
85xj4dr said:
How do you get it out? Mine WILL NOT BUDGE. Ive tried everything short of a sawzall or plasma cutter.

Its an allen head, but I have no clue what size it takes. Its none of the sizes I have. Does anyone know?

Also, Whats a reasonable sale price for a good D35, Non C-clip, non ABS, with 3.73 gears, but no springs, drums, and no shock mounts? It didn't howl when it was taken out, and the shafts are good.

It's a pipe plug, and should really have a 3/8" square recess (taking a simple ratchet wrench with a short extension to clear the "hump" in the cover to remove.) A steel plug was used in OEM covers, which may have rusted into place. If this is the case, remove the cover (draining the fluid,) wipe the oil off the inside of the cover, and heat with a torch. Get the plug to a dull red and touch a bit of paraffin wax to the juncture between the plug and the cover and let it melt in. Heat the plug directly - do not heat the cover!

When cool, the plug should come right out. It's 1/2" NPT, so just get a brass one to replace it at the hardware store.
 
XBoBJ said:
once again 5-90 comes through with the awesome advice, he is the man that knows all.....

Thank you. Not "all" - but what I don't carry around in my hat I usually know where to find...

The torch & wax trick is one I learned myself about 25 years ago - usually to remove the oil gallery pipe plugs at the rear of the engine block. Those things are usually stuck in but good...
 
Its round. Hex shaped, actually. its in a 1985 2.5L, if that makes any differance.

Heres a pic.
IMGP2054.jpg
 
poorboy_616 said:
The Torch/wax trick I learned while working for Detroit Diesel...

Works like a charm!!!

Yep. Whatever the drive recess, using a torch and wax will make it much easier to remove!

Since you have to heat the thing to dull red, you're going to wreck the temper of the thing, so you may as well go ahead and get a replacement. As I said before, brass won't seize (I use brass for oil galley plugs as well - same reason.)
 
wow thats some rust....

I'd just get a new cover dude....if 5-90's method doesnt work....
 
Alright. Thanks guys.

Jnickel - thats mostly dirt. I went and played in the mud recently. I know theres some rust, but not alot. I have a generally rust free xj.
 
I have a D35c on my 90. Had a rubber plug. Replaced it (the cover) with an after market cover, it has a 3/8 square plug. Front D30 has a square plug too.

Side question: What size is the square plug on the side of the 90 4.0 block (coolant drain plug, under and behind exhaust manifold). No one has a tool for it around here. It ain't 3/8"

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u196/chasdwitt/Sensor_Coolant_For_ECU.jpg

I'm talking about the drain to the right of the coolant temp sensor (the one not in yellow, it's not a freeze plug, but noted in Haynes as a drain to get ALL the coolant out of the block).

:wow:
 
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ParadiseXJ said:
I have a D35c on my 90. Had a rubber plug. Replaced it (the cover) with an after market cover, it has a 3/8 square plug. Front D30 has a square plug too.

Side question: What size is the square plug on the side of the 90 4.0 block (coolant drain plug, under and behind exhaust manifold). No one has a tool for it around here. It ain't 3/8"

http://i168.photobucket.com/albums/u196/chasdwitt/Sensor_Coolant_For_ECU.jpg

I'm talking about the drain to the right of the coolant temp sensor (the one not in yellow, it's not a freeze plug, but noted in Haynes as a drain to get ALL the coolant out of the block).

:wow:

5/16" or 8m/m (same size) - same as the drain plug on the Peugeot transmission.

Get a cheap-o 5/16" or 8m/m hex key, and grind two opposing corners until it just fits in the recess (don't go too far - you'd be better off being able to grab all four sides.) You can get 5/16" and 8m/m square drivers from Snap-On, but they cost a damned fortune (last time I checked.)

If you get that thing out, would you let me know if you get a standard pipe plug back in there? I've not had one out myself to check yet...
 
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