XJ Buildup III

[trickcomanche]

Originally Posted by XJEEPER

Made some progress last week on the beefed HP 30.



Got the ball joints installed and was surprise how well my cheap HF press worked.





SBS Plate welds smoothed, primed and finished.


Closeup of the RE SuperRide bushings used in the TnT truss


Trimmed stock shock mount, LCA gusset and new shock mount placement

What did you do to weld the steele to the cast on the D30?

[Jared]

Originally Posted by trickcomanche

What did you do to weld the steele to the cast on the D30?

I'm not seeing any welds to cast... only the forged knuckles.

Jared

[drumrhythm2]

you mentioned selling that bumper... how much you thinkin for a price, i really like the design of it. its pretty much what ive been lookin for, and holy crap seeing what you've been able to fab up on your own def. gives me confidence that it will last

[XJEEPER]

Guess it's been a while since I added anything here, so time to flash back and play catch up.

I selected a Viair 450C compressor which has a 100% duty cycle to power my ARB lockers, because I also wanted to be able to power air tools and inflate tires quickly. After some measuring and noise sampling, I decided that I would rather have my compressor mounted underhood instead of in the cargo area, as some have successfully done. The only place that didn't require the relocation of factory parts was next to the brake master cylinder, however, this did require removal of the factory air box. I fabbed up a simple airtube and installed an AEM Dryflow filter to solve this problem.

To mount my compressor, I fabbed up this funky little bracket.






Compressor with manifold for air lines, check valve, gauge, Viair 85psi to 105psi relay/pressure switch and female quick connect fitting. Air tube is a section of exhaust tubing that my buddy flared for me to match the intake tube.



I ran a length of 1/4 reinforced rubber airline from the manifold to the rear of my Jeep, following the path of the factory fuel lines. I decided to mount my 2 gal Viair tank in the area where the factory spare used to live. Here is the mocked-up bracket that I fabbed by welding a piece of 3/16" T x 2" W strap to the factory spare "cradle".



I ported the floor below the tank and installed these fitting for a waterproof bulkhead.



Remove the plastic trim in the spare tire area and mark the hole for drilling with a multi-bit.



Bulkhead fitting installed with poly sealer, let cure overnight.



Completed fitting for airtank supply line from compressor

[XJEEPER]

I decided to run manual air valves to contol my ARB's to eliminate the dependency of electric/pneumatic switches. I've seen too many instances where a failed solenoid renders an ARB worthless on the trail, and I wanted to keep it simple. I also decided to run DOT poly 1/4" OD tubing which is stronger and more durable than the ARB 5mm blue tubing, plus available about anywhere if a repair is needed. I also carry some spare tube and push-lock quick connectors. If you route the tubing properly and protect it against chaffing, trail repairs should be rare.

Here's a shot of the ARB tubing setup (top) to connect to the diff fittings, compared to the setup (bottom) using 1/4" poly tube. (the ferrel and collar were discarded ) I used a 90* push-lock fitting at the diff to minimize the potential for binding. Push-lock couplers make for easy install and easy repair, if needed. All fittings were purchased from EVCO in SLC, UT.




Fuzzy rear diff shot showing how the fittings connect





As a review of how I plumbed the D30 ARB, drilling and tapping the stock diff vent hole to accept a 1/4" pipe x 2.5" nipple and T fitting. This allows the small copper ARB seal housing tube to be routed out of the diff and through the 1/4" nipple, and the axle to vent out the top of the T.



Front diff with air tubing installed



With the air tank and axles plumbed, I moved inside to install the switches. I used the factory wiring harness grommet located below the brake booster to double as a grommet for routing the 1/4" tubing and relay trigger wire for the compressor switch.



To control the lockers, I selected these Clippard 2 position poppet valves PN-MJTV-3 with 1/8" NPT fittings, which accept 1/4" OD tubing. I sourced these from Raumland Systems USA in Midvale, UT. www.raumland.com and they cost about $15.00 each.

These valves have IN, OUT and EXHAUST (vent) ports so they effectively function exactly like the ARB electric/pneumatic solenoids and electric switches do, but eliminate the multiple potential points of failure. Shown here with 90* swivel push-locks and a straight push-lock on the rear.



I decided that I wanted my ARB switches (technically valves) out of the way but easily accessable, so the area on the console, just in front of the 4WD shifter was selected. I can easily access them when in 4WD and 2WD and they are out of the way. I removed the console and drilled 2 holes to mount the switches side by side.



Rear view of the mounted switches, with push-lock fittings installed.



I wanted to be able to lock either locker up independantly, so I plumbed the switches accordingly. To reduce the amount of tubing I needed to route through the firewall, I used a couple of Y push-lock fittings to share the air supply IN and VENT lines. The vent fitting was installed under the hood.



I used these rocker switch covers to minimize the potential of accidental switch actuation.........(say that 3 times, fast).



Left engages Front, Right engages Rear. They've since been labeled.



To actuate the compressor relay, I use this low voltage switch from PepBoys. With the 2 Gal tank, I can lock and unlock both lockers more times than I can recall, without the compressor kicking on.

[Jes]

Very nice setup!

[Renegade]

Very clean well done setup!

[XJEEPER]

Thanks!

Here's a few more of the finished product, showing the vent fitting above the brake booster and all the wiring completed.



Manifold fittings from left to right- 85psi-105psi relay/pressure switch--pressure relief valve--ARB switches IN line--Air Tank supply line--pressure gauge-supply line from compressor--female quick connect air fitting



Finished shot of 2 Gal air tank.

[Jes]

Btw, do you detail that thing after every trip?
I know there's dust in Utah but that thing is SUPER clean under the hood.

[Cherokeekid88]

Originally Posted by Jes

Btw, do you detail that thing after every trip?
I know there's dust in Utah but that thing is SUPER clean under the hood.

You know... i was thinking the same thing. Looks like it just came off the lot. VERY nice buildup btw!

[XJEEPER]

There's no dust at the mall...........

[CV95XJ]

Ive been researching the viair OBA setups, and I noticed that the heavy duty kit actually fills up the tires faster than the constant duty cycle that you have,

you seem like you know your stuff on the oba systems so what do you think would be best for me.

I am going to be running arb's front and rear. but I never air down my tires when I go wheeling, so the only time I would ever need to is If I got a flat and had to patch it or something. would the heavy duty be alright? would I need to let it rest every once in a while?

btw, your jeeps really coming together, I really like that bumper.

[XJQuébec]

Any update?

[proskier101]

where did you get the plating for the frame rails? i cant seem ro find any with a 45* bend

[xjjeeper19]

Originally Posted by ChrisRFewell

where did you get the plating for the frame rails? i cant seem ro find any with a 45* bend

I think he has the T&T customs, But I could be wrong....



Justin