installing distributor in new engine....

ok. i finally got around to building myself a new engine using a 94Grand Cherokee 4.0L, but it didn't come with a distributor.

i got myself a distributor, but just wanted to get a little advice so i can hopefully get it pretty close on the first time.

what i know so far.

get #1 cylinder TDC, then install distributor align rotor (i was told i could face the rotor anywhere i want to and then install the plug wires in the firing order starting the #1 wire where the rotor is pointing. is that correct?).

i have a feeling that installing the distributor is made to sound alot more complicated than it is, but i just wanted to make sure i'm not overlooking anything.

if i do have it in wrong, the worst that would happen is it won't run right. correct???

oh i also forgot.........this is going in a 95XJ.

and since the timing is electronically controlled by the PCM, what role does that play in setting this up correctly???

tdc on 1 may be firing 180 off plug 1

my 2cents alex



tj

rebelrat said:

tdc on 1 may be firing 180 off plug 1

my 2cents alex

Click to expand...

make sure it is on the compression stroke - turn the enging over (with #1 plug out) and put your finger over the hole and when you feel pressure , slowly bring the piston up to TDC.assgas:

It has to be indexed. Try a google search on indexing the distributor, I don't remember the details. It won't run for crap unless it is done right.

Fred

scorpio_vette said:

ok. i finally got around to building myself a new engine using a 94Grand Cherokee 4.0L, but it didn't come with a distributor.

i got myself a distributor, but just wanted to get a little advice so i can hopefully get it pretty close on the first time.

what i know so far.

get #1 cylinder TDC, then install distributor align rotor (i was told i could face the rotor anywhere i want to and then install the plug wires in the firing order starting the #1 wire where the rotor is pointing. is that correct?).

i have a feeling that installing the distributor is made to sound alot more complicated than it is, but i just wanted to make sure i'm not overlooking anything.

if i do have it in wrong, the worst that would happen is it won't run right. correct???

Click to expand...

The 4.0L is no different than any other engine. Index the distributor, set the engine to TDC on the compression stroke, and slide it home.

If you think long enough about the timing question, my bet is you can answer it yourself.
I'll give you a hint though... There is a difference between spark timing and spark distribution.

Zuki-Ron said:

The 4.0L is no different than any other engine. Index the distributor, set the engine to TDC on the compression stroke, and slide it home.

If you think long enough about the timing question, my bet is you can answer it yourself.
I'll give you a hint though... There is a difference between spark timing and spark distribution.

Click to expand...

Not to mention the role of the Camshaft position sensor in the distributor that controls fuel injection.....

Fred said:

It has to be indexed. Try a google search on indexing the distributor, I don't remember the details. It won't run for crap unless it is done right.

Fred

Click to expand...

Try my article at http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

Dr. Dyno, your writeup is cool. I know how to index a distributer now and what it entails. I have always wondered how

thanks to all you guys for your help and thanks Dr. Dyno for you writeup.

got it right on the first try and it puuurrrsss like a kitten.

Just to make sure I understand this,
with the engine at TDC the rotor will be pointing to approx 5 oclock
and the 5 oclock position should be wire number 1?????


Also, if the rotor pointed to 3 oclock and I installed wire number 1 there would it run the same???????? Or would that mess up the fuel injection?????

it should look EXACTLY like that. just make sure it looks like in the pic, and you'll have it right. that's what i basically ended up doing, and it fired right up.

Nice, glad to see it will look like Angelfire. He is looking for a spark, afterall

mmhhh......weird.......the picture works on my screen.

well here's a link that was posted a above already. it's the last pic in the writeup that i was trying to show you.

http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

Thats wierd. My distrubutor does not have that big rind in it. It has a flat cap on it and underneith is just a spinning plate with a flate half disc.

Is that what everyone refered to as the cam position sensor on renix models?

Dr. Dyno said:

Try my article at http://www.angelfire.com/my/fan/dist_index.html

Click to expand...

Well, as I'm trying to find cheap or free methods to work on my massive burning-oil-out-of-the-exhaust problem... I thought I might check the timing to be sure that it's not off and creating too much crankcase pressure.

I have a question about the wording in the 6th step. I just want to be sure that I'm not doing something wrong. Here's the text:

6) If not, remove the distributor retaining bolt from the block, pull the distributor out until it rotates freely, and rotate the distributor body until the rotor lines up with a mark made exactly 3.0cm clockwise from the edge of the cam position sensor's rubber plug (bottom). This will be just past the no.1 plug wire terminal in a clockwise direction. If you've got it right, the "ears" of the loop for the distributor retaining bolt will be either side of the threaded hole in the block. You should not need to cut the "ears" to correctly position the distributor unless you've installed an aftermarket camshaft.
Note: The distributor will rotate as the distributor gear meshes with the camshaft gear.

First off, every time that I've reindexed the dizzy on this thing, I've been pulling it all the way out, and always end up having to rotate the oil pump slot to get the dizzy back in. Are you saying that you can raise it just enough to clear the cam gear and the slotted tip will stay in the oil pump drive?
Secondly, the way it's written here kind of sounds like you are supposed to line it up 3cm off, and then re-mesh it with the cam gear. So, when it was finally installed it wouldn't be the 3cm anymore. Is that correct? I have been using the method of figuring out how much the gear mesh adjusts it, and backing up that amount from the 1st cylinder contact. Maybe I've been doing it wrong. It runs fine, but it does idle low.

Thanks for the write-up. I probably could've saved myself several attempts at indexing the dizzy if I had found it sooner.