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Paint and Bodywork forum Around here sheetmetal is optional but if you are going to do it, do it right.

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  #1  
Old August 25th, 2016, 07:11
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Joshman3280 Joshman3280 is offline
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Rust treatment

Hey everyone! I have a 92 xj with some serious rust issues, I am trying to find a possible rust converter or way to treat it. I have been looking at the Eastwood rust converter. Any thoughts are appreciated. It to treat rear quarter panels.
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Old August 25th, 2016, 09:16
VAhasnoWAVES VAhasnoWAVES is offline
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Re: Rust treatment

best way to treat rust is to completely remove it.
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  #3  
Old August 30th, 2016, 17:27
frijolee frijolee is offline
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Re: Rust treatment

If it's not too bad you can do POR15 with embedded fiberglass (they call it power mesh but as far as I can tell it's just chop strand mat).

1) Degrease
2) Metal Prep (POR15's rust converter)
3) POR15
4) Embed glass while wet and paint over
5) Topcoat if exposed to UV
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  #4  
Old September 1st, 2016, 15:28
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Re: Rust treatment

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Originally Posted by VAhasnoWAVES View Post
best way to treat rust is to completely remove it.
Ideally yes. However, if it isn't too far gone the rust converter works great if done properly. I've used it several times with great results. I'd recommend the brush on stuff since you really need to saturate the rust in order for it to neutralize all of it. You'll wait several days for it to do it's thing, and then top coat with a good primer/paint otherwise it will start rusting again.

I LOVE Eastwood's inner frame rail coating. The extension nozzle makes it easy. It is something every XJ that wants to live should receive. It is expensive, but well worth it.
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  #5  
Old November 9th, 2016, 10:46
Mighty.Mighty_XJ Mighty.Mighty_XJ is offline
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Re: Rust treatment

What about Chassis Saver from MonstaLiner? Supposed to be good stuf
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  #6  
Old April 2nd, 2017, 18:06
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Ecomike Ecomike is offline
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Re: Rust treatment

I have had extremely good results with this Loctite rust neutralizer product.

http://www.truevalue.com//catalog/pr...35-43411605579
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  #7  
Old April 3rd, 2017, 18:37
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Rust treatment

Muriatic acid works too, so does phospheric acid. I use it on boat water exhaust parts. That's basically all the rust converter stuff is but rebadged and the price is tripled. Other than that I'd sand/media blast and remove it. Anything less and it WILL come back.
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Old April 3rd, 2017, 19:22
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Re: Rust treatment

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Originally Posted by cherokeefan_1 View Post
Muriatic acid works too, so does phospheric acid. I use it on boat water exhaust parts. That's basically all the rust converter stuff is but rebadged and the price is tripled. Other than that I'd sand/media blast and remove it. Anything less and it WILL come back.
Nope, sorry, but the Loctite product I linked is a $300/gallon catalyzed organic polymer coating, actually a monomer that is catalyzed by exposure to oxidized iron, aka RUST, and converts the rust to a stable organic polymer primer.

Muriatic acid (aka Hydrochloric acid) just dissolves rust, while Phosphoric acid will actually form a bit of an iron phosphate coating-primer. Both need to be thoroughly rinsed off after use, to stop the acid from eating the steel.

The Loctite coating is not rinsed off, it can top coated to extend its life with a UV resistant top coat. But the surface does need to be oil and grease and loose dirt free before you brush on the Loctite coating.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 13:59
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Rust treatment

I was more referring to the Eastwood's and rust-mort type products that there are. If you don't remove rust it will come back no matter how much you spend on any type of product. Rust forms in many layers and getting that loctite product to be absorbed by all layers is impossible. Yes you can use it and the top layer will be converted but there is still rust underneath that will spread unless it's removed.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 14:50
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Re: Rust treatment

Quote:
Originally Posted by cherokeefan_1 View Post
I was more referring to the Eastwood's and rust-mort type products that there are. If you don't remove rust it will come back no matter how much you spend on any type of product. Rust forms in many layers and getting that loctite product to be absorbed by all layers is impossible. Yes you can use it and the top layer will be converted but there is still rust underneath that will spread unless it's removed.
I first used it on a badly rusted area of a 1978 Dodge station wagon, and caulked over/into to seal the treated rust holes and then painted over it, and had no rust return for the last 12 years I had the SW. Put over 400,000 miles on that beast. No paint job lasts forever either but the rust stop outlasted the rig.
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Last edited by Ecomike; April 4th, 2017 at 15:23.
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Old April 4th, 2017, 14:58
Skwerly Skwerly is offline
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Re: Rust treatment

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  #12  
Old April 5th, 2017, 07:29
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Rust treatment

That loctite product leaves a latex coating and is $8 for 8oz. Not $300 a gallon. There is 128 oz to a gallon so somehow your math is wrong
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  #13  
Old April 5th, 2017, 07:31
cherokeefan_1 cherokeefan_1 is offline
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Re: Rust treatment

What I've done for customers that don't want to spend cash to cut out rust is fiberglass over it. Like way over it into fresh metal. I still remove most of the rust though.
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Old April 9th, 2017, 12:28
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Re: Rust treatment

Hopefully you're neutralizing the oxide before laying down fiberglass.
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Old April 9th, 2017, 15:59
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Re: Rust treatment

This is the product, brand I originally used back in the 1980s.

https://www.amazon.com/Permatex-8184.../dp/B000BKC25K

They look and act the same.
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