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replacing radiator

M

MJM_Tex

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Diego
It's a 97 Cherokee sport with 4.0L and auto tranny. 126,000 miles on it and runs fine other than the leak.* From what I can see it currently has all original parts still on it.

Since I'm going to be taking things apart I might as well replace other items before they fail out on the road. Right now my list is:

radiator
water pump
thermostat
upper and lower hose and clamps
radiator cap
fan clutch

1) Is there anything else I should replace while doing this?

2) Any special tools I will need?

3) Recommendations on radiators? I don't want to do this again so quality is important.

Thanks




*
Pressure tested it today and found the source of leaking coolant. Somewhere on the top passenger side there is a hissing sound and a dribble of coolant going down the fins on the backside.

I can't really see where it is coming from because of the shroud and other stuff covering it up but I guess worst case scenario I need a new radiator.
 
Good prices at the Radiator Barn. Alot of people go with the CSF 3 row, Ive run three of them in different rigs and all have worked well.
While your in there I would suggest flushing your heater core really well. Also please don't quote me as I run manual tranns, but I beleive you will need a disconect tool to get the hardline off of your current radiator. If you didn't know it the tranny on an auto runs through the stock radiator.
 
X2 on the CSF 3 row, all metal (copper & brass). Got my second (recent one) one off Ebay (best price), first one a few years back from Radiator barn (best price at the time). I use them on my 87 and 89 jeeps now. Paid about $170 ea for them.

Check the belt condition.... and idler bearing while it is easy to get to.
 
xjwisconsin said:
Good prices at the Radiator Barn. Alot of people go with the CSF 3 row, Ive run three of them in different rigs and all have worked well.
While your in there I would suggest flushing your heater core really well. Also please don't quote me as I run manual tranns, but I beleive you will need a disconect tool to get the hardline off of your current radiator. If you didn't know it the tranny on an auto runs through the stock radiator.
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info. I know the tranny and a/c are probably going to complicate things and will make sure I have the right disconnect tools.
 
If you take your time, I beleive there is no reason you will need to disconect the AC, unless your is not functional... If that is the case, now might be a good time to either remove the system completly, or adress any issues it may be having.

X2 On the serp, not a project that you have to have the rad out to do, but if your in there and have the time it would be super easy to deal with at that point.
 
The condensor doesn't need to be removed; there are a few brackets securing it up top, and you'll see them when you start pulling stuff off to remove the radiator. I'd flush the entire cooling system before you tear it apart. Since you're going to be putting fresh coolant and new parts in, you might as well get everything else reasonably clean.

Aside from the quick disconnect tool mentioned above, you shouldn't need anything beyond basic hand tools.

I'm also running an all-metal 3 row CSF, which I got from RadiatorBarn.com based on recommendations here. No problems at all with mine.
 
Well since i just did mine on saturday, its not a hard job, but complicated if u get frustrated with clamps and stuff.......for the drain plug, i removed the turn signal and found it right behind it, so much easier than up and underneath......let me know if i can help in any other way
 
While you have the system drained you may as well change the heater hoses too.

Changing water pump is MUCH easier when the radiator is out - more room to work.

(I did all these when I changed radiator in my gray '01 plus I changed the coolant filter I have in the heater return line)
 
Rad drain plug may be hard to turn. Much easier just to remove upper end of driver's side rad hose and twist it down to empty into a pan below. Removing rubber splatter shield beneath engine also helps.

Some aftermarket radiators come with a lower tranny cooler fitting that rubs against the frame rail. Recommend checking this before you get too far along in your project. Remove your air box and you'll see the possible problem fitting.
 
Ecomike said:
X2 on the CSF 3 row, all metal (copper & brass). Got my second (recent one) one off Ebay (best price), first one a few years back from Radiator barn (best price at the time). I use them on my 87 and 89 jeeps now. Paid about $170 ea for them.

Check the belt condition.... and idler bearing while it is easy to get to.
Click to expand...

Yeah, I would rather have an all metal radiator too.

Ecomike said:
Check the belt condition.... and idler bearing while it is easy to get to.
Click to expand...

Is the idler bearing the same as a belt tensioner?

Thanks
 
MJM_Tex said:
Yeah, I would rather have an all metal radiator too.



Is the idler bearing the same as a belt tensioner?

Thanks
Click to expand...

No. The idle pulley does not involve belt tension on the jeeps, but has a simple cheap replaceable press in bearing. There is a belt tension adjustment bolt under the power steering pump, that is a bit of a pain to get at. It requires loosening and tightening several hard to reach bolts on the PS pump and its mounting bracket. Took me hours to figure it out with out a manual the first time. That one step is almost as much trouble as a radiator swap, until you have done it a few times, LOL!
 
A little trick I use on my '01s to drain the radiatior is to snake a 3/8" clear plastic hose thru the radiator cap opening and down the side tank to siphon the coolant out. It takes some fiddling to get the hose down thru the transmission cooler pipe in the side tank but once done it can be siphoned further down than you'd get by pulling the "lower" hose.

(Not sure if the '97 is the same. My '84 2.5 definitely had to use the drain fitting on the bottom of the rad.)
 
Ecomike said:
No. The idle pulley does not involve belt tension on the jeeps, but has a simple cheap replaceable press in bearing. There is a belt tension adjustment bolt under the power steering pump, that is a bit of a pain to get at. It requires loosening and tightening several hard to reach bolts on the PS pump and its mounting bracket. Took me hours to figure it out with out a manual the first time. That one step is almost as much trouble as a radiator swap, until you have done it a few times, LOL!
Click to expand...

On the late models, the belt tension bolt is actually on top of the power steering pump bracket. If you're facing the Jeep, it's on the left side, at about a 45* angle (more or less). Between the thermostat housing and the PS pump.

As for flushing the heater core, good idea, but be gentle in doing so. Late models are notorious for crummy heater cores (and evaporators). When one of them goes out (which one will sooner or later...it's not a question of IF), it's quite a time consuming job to replace as the entire dash has to come off.
 
werewoulf3 said:
Well since i just did mine on saturday, its not a hard job, but complicated if u get frustrated with clamps and stuff.......for the drain plug, i removed the turn signal and found it right behind it, so much easier than up and underneath......let me know if i can help in any other way
Click to expand...

Thanks for the info.

Who designed a vehicle where you have to remove the grill and a light just to drain the radiator?
 
2X_01_Jeeps said:
While you have the system drained you may as well change the heater hoses too.

Changing water pump is MUCH easier when the radiator is out - more room to work.

(I did all these when I changed radiator in my gray '01 plus I changed the coolant filter I have in the heater return line)
Click to expand...

Yep, I will add heater hoses to my list.

Thanks
 
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