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Rock hard clutch pedal. Need help please.

Jumpnj

NAXJA Forum User
Hi all! 1998 xj 5 speed 4.0 4x4 Hope I can get some help. Driving home from work the other day. Coming to a stop sign I go to push the clutch in and it’s hard as a rock. Pop it out of gear and pull over. Was 30 miles from home. Was able to start it in gear and float the tranny home. No clutch issues before this whatsoever. Only thing I had an issue with was trying to get it into 4low. It wouldn’t go. Figured just need adjustment. But anyway I searched for hours. Only found one relatively close post. Said it could be the slave. So I got the old system out and put the new one in. But like the novice idiot I am, I broke the plastic tabs holding slave rod in before installing. Got up to try out clutch and ROCK HARD. I can move the shifter through the gears with it off through all cleanly except 3rd feels like it might not be going all the way in. Do I pull the slave system and get another and install it correctly or is that even the issue I should be concerned with. Seriously it shifted fine before this. No symptoms of failure whatsoever.


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If I had to guess, it's something with the throw out bearing. Last time I had one out I seem to remember the input shaft throw out bearing clearance being super tight and having to clean the hell out of the shaft to clear it off any little bit of debris. That being said, it could've possibly come apart. I had one of the mounting ears that secure the bearing to the clutch fork snap off.

Alternatively, the pressure plate for the clutch could be shot or have a physical defect.

I'd pull the trans

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If I had to guess, it's something with the throw out bearing. Last time I had one out I seem to remember the input shaft throw out bearing clearance being super tight and having to clean the hell out of the shaft to clear it off any little bit of debris. That being said, it could've possibly come apart. I had one of the mounting ears that secure the bearing to the clutch fork snap off.

Alternatively, the pressure plate for the clutch could be shot or have a physical defect.

I'd pull the trans

Sent from my LG-H830 using Tapatalk



Oh man. Thanks for the good info and bad news. Any idea if I ruined the new slave? Do you think the old one is still good? It seemed kinda weird when i pulled it out but it was also my first time seeing one.


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The plastic tabs are only a place holder for the slave cylinder push rod to make installation easier. To start, remove the slave cylinder again and try pressing on the clutch fork manually using a screwdriver and see if you get any binding. If there is it could be due to the throw out bearing or the front bearing retainer (shaft which the throw out bearing slides on). It could also be caused by a broken clutch fork retainer clip which locks the other end of the clutch fork to a pivot ball which in turn could have dislodged from the pivot ball in such a way that causes the clutch fork/throw out bearing assembly to bind on the front bearing retainer shaft. So, if you do get any sort of binding, you'll have to drop the transmission and further inspect the problem. I don't think your transmission itself is the problem as this sounds more of clutch engagement/disengagement problem or hydraulics.
 
The plastic tabs are only a place holder for the slave cylinder push rod to make installation easier. To start, remove the slave cylinder again and try pressing on the clutch fork manually using a screwdriver and see if you get any binding. If there is it could be due to the throw out bearing or the front bearing retainer (shaft which the throw out bearing slides on). It could also be caused by a broken clutch fork retainer clip which locks the other end of the clutch fork to a pivot ball which in turn could have dislodged from the pivot ball in such a way that causes the clutch fork/throw out bearing assembly to bind on the front bearing retainer shaft. So, if you do get any sort of binding, you'll have to drop the transmission and further inspect the problem. I don't think your transmission itself is the problem as this sounds more of clutch engagement/disengagement problem or hydraulics.
Yes the T.O.B. tabs caused me a problem. It caused my bearing to not slide square with the input shaft and it bound up.

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My guess is that both sets of clutch master/slave are good. Your problem is probably inside the bell housing.

Let us know what you find once you get inside there.
 
Alright, thank you all. I guess I’ll be dropping the tranny. Or have someone do it. I don’t have the tools nor space for that. I’ll come back and post what is found out when they or I drop it. Should I just do a whole new clutch kit since we’re going in there even tho the clutch was in great shape?



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I had this happen on a ford Ranger -- driving along just fine, went to stop for a light and all of a sudden the clutch was rock hard -- was able to limp to my destination, starting in gear, rolling thru red lights that where clear

Turned out my clutch plate had come apart -- when I pulled the trans springs fell out

Your gonna have to pull the trans -- no way around it
 
I had this happen on a ford Ranger -- driving along just fine, went to stop for a light and all of a sudden the clutch was rock hard -- was able to limp to my destination, starting in gear, rolling thru red lights that where clear

Turned out my clutch plate had come apart -- when I pulled the trans springs fell out

Your gonna have to pull the trans -- no way around it



Damn. Should I buy all new clutch parts? Would a full clutch kit have all the stuff that could be wrong with it? Or are there more things I should buy to have ready to be replaced?


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I had my Clutch Master Cylinder go bad on my 85 XJ a year ago. I disconnected the fluid line at the MC and it was still rock hard. Just for grins, I replaced the MC and the SC. Seems to me rare, but it does happen, so check it too!!!!

Hi all! 1998 xj 5 speed 4.0 4x4 Hope I can get some help. Driving home from work the other day. Coming to a stop sign I go to push the clutch in and it’s hard as a rock. Pop it out of gear and pull over. Was 30 miles from home. Was able to start it in gear and float the tranny home. No clutch issues before this whatsoever. Only thing I had an issue with was trying to get it into 4low. It wouldn’t go. Figured just need adjustment. But anyway I searched for hours. Only found one relatively close post. Said it could be the slave. So I got the old system out and put the new one in. But like the novice idiot I am, I broke the plastic tabs holding slave rod in before installing. Got up to try out clutch and ROCK HARD. I can move the shifter through the gears with it off through all cleanly except 3rd feels like it might not be going all the way in. Do I pull the slave system and get another and install it correctly or is that even the issue I should be concerned with. Seriously it shifted fine before this. No symptoms of failure whatsoever.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
I had my Clutch Master Cylinder go bad on my 85 XJ a year ago. I disconnected the fluid line at the MC and it was still rock hard. Just for grins, I replaced the MC and the SC. Seems to me rare, but it does happen, so check it too!!!!



I had replaced the whole system with a brand new one. Both are functioning properly, unfortunately. I had the old in my hand and was able To operate the system by hand.


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If your taking it apart, might as well do a new clutch kit. the 5 speed isn't all that hard to pull.
put jeep on stands or ramps
if your lifted atleast 4.5" you can pull it with the jeep on all 4 tires
unbolt starter
unbolt slave
unhook wiring
pull breather tube for transfer case
unbolt shifter x4 bolts
drain fluid (get some Redline MTL)
unhook driveshafts
put jackstand under transfer case
remove crossmember from trans and body
unbolt exhaust from header
unhook O2
let the trans drop about an inch or so (it helps with access to top bolts)
remove CPS
remove bolts
x3 bottom
x2 upper sides
x2 on the top (inverted torx socket
get a helper, unless your a pretty big guy
pull trans out
 
If your taking it apart, might as well do a new clutch kit. the 5 speed isn't all that hard to pull.
put jeep on stands or ramps
if your lifted atleast 4.5" you can pull it with the jeep on all 4 tires
unbolt starter
unbolt slave
unhook wiring
pull breather tube for transfer case
unbolt shifter x4 bolts
drain fluid (get some Redline MTL)
unhook driveshafts
put jackstand under transfer case
remove crossmember from trans and body
unbolt exhaust from header
unhook O2
let the trans drop about an inch or so (it helps with access to top bolts)
remove CPS
remove bolts
x3 bottom
x2 upper sides
x2 on the top (inverted torx socket) size E12
get a helper, unless your a pretty big guy
pull trans out

just adding pertinent info
 
I will add that if you are doing a clutch kit, take the throwout bearing that comes in the kit and throw it as far as you can. And go buy yourself a real bearing.

Otherwise you stand a good chance of going back into that bellhousing early.

DAMHIKT.

ClutchTrhowoutBearing5OPT.jpg
 
I will add that if you are doing a clutch kit, take the throwout bearing that comes in the kit and throw it as far as you can. And go buy yourself a real bearing.

Otherwise you stand a good chance of going back into that bellhousing early.

DAMHIKT.

ClutchTrhowoutBearing5OPT.jpg

This. The Luk kit I bought when I replaced my clutch came with a composite bearing. Bought an all metal National bearing and so far so good.
 
I will add that if you are doing a clutch kit, take the throwout bearing that comes in the kit and throw it as far as you can. And go buy yourself a real bearing.

Otherwise you stand a good chance of going back into that bellhousing early.

DAMHIKT.

ClutchTrhowoutBearing5OPT.jpg



They’re that bad huh? Even with a quality kit? It’s weird that it made no kind of Indication that anything was going wrong. On a different xj I had one go bad and it was an obvious sound but still able to drive it.


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They are good enough to get you past any warranty period, either for the manufacturer or the installer.

It will be a few years before it fails. But boy, when it fails it really fails. I got no warning. Not at all like a real bearing that gets to the point it makes a bunch of noise and lets you know you are going to need to get in there and repair things soon, but at least keeps on going so you can wait for the weekend, or the next paycheck.
 
They are good enough to get you past any warranty period, either for the manufacturer or the installer.

It will be a few years before it fails. But boy, when it fails it really fails. I got no warning. Not at all like a real bearing that gets to the point it makes a bunch of noise and lets you know you are going to need to get in there and repair things soon, but at least keeps on going so you can wait for the weekend, or the next paycheck.



Yea it must’ve been a good one in the 96 I had because it squealed for a good minute and got me from point a to b longer than I should admit haha. It was definitely shot. Checked it out when they pulled it out. I wonder if that’s what’s going on in this one. Like I mentioned before it drive perfectly fine and then bam, Stuck like chuck.


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Welp. It was the clutch fork and throw out bearing. I know I’m probably insane to not do the clutch while they’re in there but it grabbed just fine. No slip of any sort. It’s like 600$ for the clutch but they just resurface fly wheel. I’ve read that it’s not the best to resurface it?


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Welp. It was the clutch fork and throw out bearing. I know I’m probably insane to not do the clutch while they’re in there but it grabbed just fine. No slip of any sort. It’s like 600$ for the clutch but they just resurface fly wheel. I’ve read that it’s not the best to resurface it?


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It’s 410$ for tob and clutch fork. Or 630ish for a clutch too. But only resurfaced flywheel? If the clutch showed any signs of even thinking about going out I’d do it. But it felt great.


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