No Crank - No start - Starter Resolution

I figure its time to give back some since i've lurked here for years.

Spec: 1995 4.0L AW4 2WD

Today 6am I went to start the truck to go to work and nothing. All lights work, radio, etc. I had full power but when I turned the key I got nothing. I checked:

• Battery level: 12.67v
• Fuses
• Swapped around relays
• Jumped NSS
• Removed NSS - Cleaned, lubed and reinstalled
• Checked voltage at starter poles 12.58v Constant and 12.4v on the ignition switched pole
• Jumped starter poles
• Strike starter solenoid with small hammer
• Strike starter solenoid with larger hammer
• Strike starter solenoid with small sledge
• Applied band-aid to forearm after sledge slips through my hand and pinches my arm to the floor.

After those steps i still had no start. My last resort was to remove the starter and see what was happening inside. I saw that there was oil seeping from the pan gasket near the starter. After dropping the starter I proceeded to:

• Unscrew the two outer most long bolts. (*not the inner screws* 6mm IIRC)
• Unscrew the 2 screws from the solenoid
• Gently pull the brass rear cover from the starter body
• Then pull the armature from the body (carefully *there is a ball bearing magnetically stuck to the end of the armature*)

From this point I could have continued to take apart the body, exposing the reduction gears. I chose not to because the gears spun freely and were well lubed.

• Using brake cleaner and many rags i cleaned the internals of the starter body, the armature, and end cap.
• Sanded the brass contacts and brushes with 800 grit sand paper then applied dielectric grease to the contact areas
• Lubed the internals and armature using white lithium grease
• Placed the ball bearing back on to the end of the armature and slipped the armature back into the case.
• After replacing the end cap and tightening the long bolts then move to the solenoid.
• the solenoid has a plunger of sorts that pulls on a forked arm in the starter body. This arm pushes the starter pinion gear into the flex-plate teeth.
• I lubed the plunger and the cylinder in the solenoid.
• Reassemble the solenoid and place back in the truck.

After these steps (about 20 minutes and 0$) the truck started better than it ever had. In fact it had been getting slower and slower over the past few months. The oil build up had rendered the starter inoperative.

I hope this help anyone who is thinking of buying a new starter. Clean the thing first and if that doesn't work then get a new one.

Zel94XJ said:

I hope this help anyone who is thinking of buying a new starter. Repair the oil leaks, clean the thing first and if that doesn't work then get a new one.

Click to expand...

Fixed? atriot:

Cool. Those ignored oil leaks on the passenger side of a 4.0 can definitely screw up starters.

I'm betting the sanding the commutator was what got it going, or you had a contact issue in the solenoid wire. Oil by itself is dielectric and generally won't interfere with good electrical contacts.

Sanded the brass contacts and brushes with 800 grit sand paper then applied dielectric grease to the contact areas

Click to expand...

Also, did you put grease on the commutator and brushes? Those really shouldn't be anything but cleaned. The carbon brushes are the lubricant in themselves. Commutators should be clean and dry.

In my case the oil was pretty packed in there. You can tell the leak must have been an issue for a while. I think that cleaning the gummed up contacts really did the trick.

[Oil by itself is dielectric and generally won't interfere with good electrical contacts.


Sounds good in theory, but I've seen many starters ruined by engine oil leaks. Oil leaks on starters is a kiss of death.

Thanks Zel94XJ. Very useful info.:thumbup:

'92XJ