• Welcome to the new NAXJA Forum! If your password does not work, please use "Forgot your password?" link on the log-in page. Please feel free to reach out to [email protected] if we can provide any assistance.

Clayton Longarms

N

Nik

NAXJA Forum User
I think this is the kit I will be getting and I was just wondering if I could get some background on its performanceand durability from you guys. I have herd nothing but positives about it and am excited to put it on. I need to go LA due to being up at about 14 inches.

One question, does it come with brackets to weld on to the axles or is it all bolt up to the original axle mounts. I know it comes with the cross member too.

Are there any places I can buy the kit from besides clayton like some other distributors or are they the only one who sell it?750 is quite a bit and I was wondering where I can get it for cheaper or even a non-damaged used kit.

Thanks



Nik
 
you have short arms with 14" of lift? at that hight i hope you don't have the stock steering set-up still. :)
i think Clayton is the only one who sells it.
$750 is very reasonable considering what you're getting.
 
The crossmember replaces the stock one and welds on. You have to cut off your LCA frame mounts and the rest bolts directly to the factory axle mounts and locations.
 
I had drop backets and a over the nuckle steering conversion:) Well I was also looking at another long arm kit from rockhardparts or somthn like that, it was 580, which is more reasonable.:) I still like claytons though.
 
Clayton's uses the stock axle brackets. The long arms run from the new cross member to the axle brackets for the factory lowers. He runs a "kicker" up from the long arm to the UCA axle brackets to take care of locating the axle and controlling caster. Factory LCA mounts at the body end get cut off during the install.
 
Nik said:
I had drop backets and a over the nuckle steering conversion:) Well I was also looking at another long arm kit from rockhardparts or somthn like that, it was 580, which is more reasonable.:) I still like claytons though.
Click to expand...

Did you mean Carolina Rock Shop? They have long arms for $580. I have Carolina Rock Shop arms and love them. They are cheap and durable, well worth the money.

AARON
 
yeah thats who it was i couldn't remember right offf the top of my head but that is who it was. WOuld you go claytons's or theirs' if u did it again the only reason I am asking is they are almos 200 bucks cheaper and that is nice on a High school budget.

Nik,
 
i desided to go with CRS long arm set-up. i was advided by a former jeep engineer not to weld anything onto the uni-frame. CRS brackets still require welding, but they also bolt under the stock crossmember, so if the welds fail you can still limp out home. CRS arms are also shorter, at 28", which will help with clearance, as I'm not running enormous lift.
 
Clayton's cross member is welded to the unibody, but it goes on at the point where the front and rear sections of the "frame" are nested and extra thick, so welding does not appear to be a problem.

Nonetheless, it is a critical point and I would not attempt it myself if I were just learning to wield a welder.
 
Nik said:
yeah thats who it was i couldn't remember right offf the top of my head but that is who it was. WOuld you go claytons's or theirs' if u did it again the only reason I am asking is they are almos 200 bucks cheaper and that is nice on a High school budget.

Nik,
Click to expand...

I was on high school budget when I did the long arms and
CRSU long arms fit that budget, and also I got a deal because I had a prototype setup with a new custom crossmember in addition to the long arms. The production arms use the stock crossmember to keep the cost down. Eather kit is going to improve your ride and flex. For durability, I have not really seen any broken components from Claytons long arms or CRSU's long arms. Both are very well built and of excellent quality.

AARON
 
why the heck is Claytons website?? i've heard talk of them but am not familar. Would someone please give me contact info!!
 
I moved this from the RE thread,it explains the low cost of the CRS kit.Pretty scary!
CRS LA
 
you know the matter of 14 inches really doesn't matter, i already got yelled at after puting my pics on the net. I actually do wheel my vehicle and I am sick of hearing I am too high and I will roll. I have 39.5x20 tires and fulll width axles, 14 inches and major cutting barely cleares the tires in flex and I am very happy with it. I had a buddy who was up 11 just to clear 38's and he is in the JP magazine wheeln down in south Colorado. I learned a lot from his setup and I am still working on mine. We had almost identicle setups and it worked great. So lets not worry how high I am up and keep to the question asked.


Thnaks
 
RCP Phx said:
I moved this from the RE thread,it explains the low cost of the CRS kit.Pretty scary!
CRS LA
Click to expand...

Dear God! That sure looks to me like a HOME MADE heim joint. Why would anyone go to the trouble of welding a nut (or a bolt) to a spherical bearing when you can just buy heims? Is that really from the NCRS kit? Eek! :scared:

I can attest, having been in his shop while he installed his kit for one of the guys in the NAC, that there is no "redneck engineering" in Clayton's kit. In fact, in his secret identity he is an industrial engineer, and IMHO his kit shows it.
 
I have Clayton's on my XJ.I have seriously thrashed it for about the last 9 months.No problems what so ever...NONE.Clayton did the install for me,about 4-5 hours and he was done.It flexs like crazy.I have 13" travel shox on it now and I am using all of the travel.I'm switching to 15" travel shox this winter.The only problem is that I have to get the rear to work as well as the front.I'm thinking quarter elliptics this winter.
 
Eagle said:
Dear God! That sure looks to me like a HOME MADE heim joint. Why would anyone go to the trouble of welding a nut (or a bolt) to a spherical bearing when you can just buy heims? Is that really from the NCRS kit? Eek! :scared:

I can attest, having been in his shop while he installed his kit for one of the guys in the NAC, that there is no "redneck engineering" in Clayton's kit. In fact, in his secret identity he is an industrial engineer, and IMHO his kit shows it.
Click to expand...

If you played the whole slideshow youll realize these are the photo's used on their webpage.Welded bolts on all ends,low hanging mounts and no front shocks(lots of flex that way),and the rear doesn't even move!Good kit to avoid!
 
Sweet. Well that turns me away from that kit. Guess it is the Clayton it. I have to wait about 2 weeks till I can order it and I am really excited because I have never heard one problem or diss to his products. Once you get that eliptical set up I would like to see some pics. Once I am dont with the front I will head straight to the rear.

Thanks for the info
 
Eagle said:
Dear God! That sure looks to me like a HOME MADE heim joint. Why would anyone go to the trouble of welding a nut (or a bolt) to a spherical bearing when you can just buy heims? Is that really from the NCRS kit? Eek! :scared:

I can attest, having been in his shop while he installed his kit for one of the guys in the NAC, that there is no "redneck engineering" in Clayton's kit. In fact, in his secret identity he is an industrial engineer, and IMHO his kit shows it.
Click to expand...


Home made heim joint and red neck engineering?:rolleyes: That joint is nothing but a RE spherical bearing. Same joint found on their arms. How does RE get their joint on the end of their arms? They weld it. Have you ever seen the Johnny Joints from Currie with the threaded rod? The Currie threaded JJ are nothing but a Grade 8 bolt welded on to the joint. I know as I have had a set and talked to Currie about how they attach the threaded rod. What Carolina Rock Shop is the same thing that every manafacture does to their products. How are Claytons joints any different? Somebody had to have welded threaded rod to the spherical bearings. As for the joints for the long arms at CRSU, they are just like everybody elses. I personally watched the grade 8 bolt be welded to the RE spherical bearings and I have absolute confidence that something else will fail before that weld will break.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Similar threads

J
Rubicon Express Track Bar 9/16 bushing.
Replies
4
Views
3K
89Mock
89Mock
G
Crossover and High Steer (Wagoneer Dana 44) Clearance Issues?
Replies
9
Views
3K
Evan03
E
G
Frame Stiffeners and Longarms, Add Plate to Center?
Replies
2
Views
3K
JonnyCat63
J
T
Brake bleeding: vacuum/pressure or old school?
Replies
10
Views
712
lawsoncl
L
E
RE CONTROL ARM DROP BRACKETS?
Replies
8
Views
1K
EastonTexas
E
Back
Top