Future Overland XJ Build

[Kfdez01]

Hey guys, I've finally decided to pull the trigger on a 1997-2001 build. At this point I've done weeks of research on the car after having zero to little knowledge on it. My plans are almost finalized, I just want to make sure everything is right and done correctly the first time. I will be doing almost all the work myself. I will be linking my build plans below. Please let me know what you think or what I should change/consider!

https://1drv.ms/w/s!AmYWsPjISrb3gd4r...pPp9A?e=699HuY

[maxbraketorque]

Looks like a good start for a list. Wildpeaks aren't particularly aggressive. Wrangler Duratrac are well known for good street manners (including packed snow) and excellent offroad traction. Some say the sidewalls puncture easy in rocks. With 4.75" BS rims, 10.5" wide tires will stick past the stock fenders by ~1".

[Phil]

Save your money on the battery upgrade unless the rig you are buying has a known bad battery. And why Optima yellow top?

I’m in the “steel wheels suck” camp and I’d rather have a set of nice stock aluminum wheels at this point in my life.

I would skip the LED headlights.

I’d pass on the brake upgrade for small tires. I sure would not do WJ.

Skipping any of those would get you a steering linkage upgrade, ZJ or maybe Currie.

Skipping all would also get you a winch.

[ljobbins]

I would do shackle relocation if that’s not part of your suspension plan or kit.

And I would look at filthy addictions Offroad for an option of bumper/tire carrier.

And I had the wildpeak atw3 tires in the past and I loved them.

[Kfdez01]

Optima yellow because I've run that on my other cars in the past and it's been reliable.

Why do you think steel wheels suck?

I don't mind skipping the brake upgrade if unnecessary, but why not WJ?

[Kfdez01]

Cool, I'll look into the shackle relocation.

Any idea what prices I should expect from FAO? I see that it's just a facebook page.

[maxbraketorque]

WJ front brake install is somewhat involved, and I'm not sure there is any substantial benefit with 31" tires. My XJ on 31" tires is no sports car when stopping, but it does good enough. On the road, I just have to leave a little more gap to the car in front of me than I do in my road-only cars. Just make sure the stock brakes are in good condition with good pads and shoes. Then spend the saved money on diffs.

[old_man]

Having done rock crawling for decades, I have seen too many aluminum rims broken on the trail. Now, having said that, most people on here are not pushing things that hard, but it can happen on a normal trail with an errant rock pushing in on the side of the tire.

BFT AT KO series tires actually wrap around the edge of the rim and help prevent this type of damage as well as cut down on popping a bead.

[ljobbins]

Originally Posted by Kfdez01

Cool, I'll look into the shackle relocation.

Any idea what prices I should expect from FAO? I see that it's just a facebook page.

Filthyaddictionsoffroad@gmail.com or their Instagram page is how to contact them. Not sure on prices.

And I’ve done the wj swap and I’ve had stock style steering and brakes on 33’s. And to me the stock is just fine for most situations and with a zj tie rod it’s a $50 investment in the steering vs about $2000 for the wj swap(if you buy everything new, swap components, bigger rims to fit the stuff, different tires for the different rims, alignment, and probably a shop to install it all)
My main benefit from the wj swap isn’t the brakes but the chevy 1ton steering ends and tighter steering when I’m running faster in the dirt or hit potholes at 65-70mph

[Anak]

Originally Posted by old_man

Having done rock crawling for decades, I have seen too many aluminum rims broken on the trail.

Words of wisdom.

And if you happen to live where it gets cold, aluminum seems to lose air faster than steel.

[75SV1]

I couldn't open the list. I am guessing a 3.5 lift, 31's, headlight upgrade, brake upgrade, steering upgrade. Not a whole lot of knowledge on Overland stuff though.
For headlights and less $$, I'd look at Autopals H4 and a wiring harness upgrade. I did run Autopals for a few years. No real issues. I'd say twice the stock output. Then twice that with wiring harness upgrade.
Brakes, yeas I have WJ's on mine. With Chevy 1-ton cross over. Yes, probably $1600 to $2000. So, not cheap. I'd try a set of Black Magic pads first.
I might try an OTK trackbar. Just in case you want to go to cross over steering in the future. Also, I only found one post with someone using OTK with stock or Y link steering. Said it was more stable.
https://offroadonly.com/product-category/u-turn/
Discussed some months back. No experience with them.

[Phil]

Originally Posted by Kfdez01

Optima yellow because I've run that on my other cars in the past and it's been reliable.

Why do you think steel wheels suck?

I don't mind skipping the brake upgrade if unnecessary, but why not WJ?

If you are on a budget, and there are no issues with the installed battery, why throw away $300 on a new one?

Steel wheels: marginally heavier (US Wheel generic steel vs American Racing Baja); I prefer the look of aluminum; it is my opinion that what might break an aluminum wheel will damage the steel beyond use anyway and a steel whee will yield and get wobbly where an aluminum won’t.

WJ brake upgrade, as noted above, there’s too much that goes into it to be worth it for 3” and 31s. The low steer arms are lower than XJ, track bar bracket modifications required for high steer, and you may be pushed into 16” wheels (if you were not planning on that anyway).

[75SV1]

Instead of the Optima battery, if your present battery is fairly new and good, look into upgrading the battery cables.
Also, I think you asked in another thread if the WJ BB's prevented DW. No. Trust me I know. I might look into 'the Cure' from Ruff Stuff, if you keep the 'Y' link. It cheap. I don't think it prevents DW, but helps with the side to side lane change from what I can gather. I haven't used one though.
I also think you mentioned brake rotors. Blaine of Black Magic sells Centric brand to use with his pads. Though he does not sell them for the WJ's. He gets to many returns for what ever reason, only on the WJ rotors. I used NAPA Reactive and Active pads this last time. They seem OK. I did get some brake fade going down a mountain though. I was behind 3 logging or stone trucks. They were putting along. I was constantly on the brakes. They did afford for me to pass. This was a twisty streach of road.

[maxbraketorque]

Originally Posted by 75SV1

Instead of the Optima battery, if your present battery is fairly new and good, look into upgrading the battery cables.
Also, I think you asked in another thread if the WJ BB's prevented DW. No. Trust me I know. I might look into 'the Cure' from Ruff Stuff, if you keep the 'Y' link. It cheap. I don't think it prevents DW, but helps with the side to side lane change from what I can gather. I haven't used one though.
I also think you mentioned brake rotors. Blaine of Black Magic sells Centric brand to use with his pads. Though he does not sell them for the WJ's. He gets to many returns for what ever reason, only on the WJ rotors. I used NAPA Reactive and Active pads this last time. They seem OK. I did get some brake fade going down a mountain though. I was behind 3 logging or stone trucks. They were putting along. I was constantly on the brakes. They did afford for me to pass. This was a twisty streach of road.

What is DW?

[Kfdez01]

Originally Posted by 75SV1

Instead of the Optima battery, if your present battery is fairly new and good, look into upgrading the battery cables.
Also, I think you asked in another thread if the WJ BB's prevented DW. No. Trust me I know. I might look into 'the Cure' from Ruff Stuff, if you keep the 'Y' link. It cheap. I don't think it prevents DW, but helps with the side to side lane change from what I can gather. I haven't used one though.
I also think you mentioned brake rotors. Blaine of Black Magic sells Centric brand to use with his pads. Though he does not sell them for the WJ's. He gets to many returns for what ever reason, only on the WJ rotors. I used NAPA Reactive and Active pads this last time. They seem OK. I did get some brake fade going down a mountain though. I was behind 3 logging or stone trucks. They were putting along. I was constantly on the brakes. They did afford for me to pass. This was a twisty streach of road.

I've never asked about WJ BB's before but that's good to know. I'll probably just stick to the black magic set for now then. You think it's worth converting the rears to discs as well?