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XJ axle swap/build

My fronts are Crown extended XJ steel braided lines. 5-6" lift size iirc I picked the longest ones they offered. They are plenty long, my shocks droop out before the brake lines do. The rears was the steel braided line from the Crown kit and I kept the rubber soft and hard lines from my ZJ brake set up on the stock axles. I ended up needing to ream out the banjo fittings on the caliper side of the brake lines since the larger brakes used a larger dia banjo bolt. My larger brakes also benefitted from a larger master cylinder but that's not really related to lines. I'll try to post a photo or two
 
My fronts are Crown extended XJ steel braided lines. 5-6" lift size iirc I picked the longest ones they offered. They are plenty long, my shocks droop out before the brake lines do. The rears was the steel braided line from the Crown kit and I kept the rubber soft and hard lines from my ZJ brake set up on the stock axles. I ended up needing to ream out the banjo fittings on the caliper side of the brake lines since the larger brakes used a larger dia banjo bolt. My larger brakes also benefitted from a larger master cylinder but that's not really related to lines. I'll try to post a photo or two


Thanks Nate! I have 4-6 inch lift extended brake lines from RE and I wasn’t sure if they’d be long enough. I think I might just run them and see what stops the flexing first.
What MC did you end up running BTW?


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That one is off a V8Durango. So far it has worked good. Clears the hood, reservoir holds more fluid, got my pedal feel back. Kept the booster but used that Centric MC and it seemed to have solved my issue with a spongy pedal no matter how much I bled the system with the stock MC.
 
That one is off a V8Durango. So far it has worked good. Clears the hood, reservoir holds more fluid, got my pedal feel back. Kept the booster but used that Centric MC and it seemed to have solved my issue with a spongy pedal no matter how much I bled the system with the stock MC.

What brake booster do you have?


I swapped in a dual diaphram then a different master cylinder (WJ I think) and the brakes are t so great with just the Sterling 10.25 drums. I’m using summit racing braided lines to the factory hardline. I tried a Durango booster and the bolt pattern didn’t match up to my booster so im kind of stuck. I wish I could get better brakes for street so I just drive much slower/safer and hope for the best. Might need to adjust the drums a second time though. I got them to stop the tires while on Jack stands.


How did you do your disc conversion, or has that not been done yet?
 
That one is off a V8Durango. So far it has worked good. Clears the hood, reservoir holds more fluid, got my pedal feel back. Kept the booster but used that Centric MC and it seemed to have solved my issue with a spongy pedal no matter how much I bled the system with the stock MC.


Nice! I’ll definitely keep this one in mind if my WJ MC doesn’t do the trick.


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What brake booster do you have?


I swapped in a dual diaphram then a different master cylinder (WJ I think) and the brakes are t so great with just the Sterling 10.25 drums. I’m using summit racing braided lines to the factory hardline. I tried a Durango booster and the bolt pattern didn’t match up to my booster so im kind of stuck. I wish I could get better brakes for street so I just drive much slower/safer and hope for the best. Might need to adjust the drums a second time though. I got them to stop the tires while on Jack stands.


How did you do your disc conversion, or has that not been done yet?


I have a WJ MC and booster which is dual diaphragm. Hmm I thought that Durango and Dakota MCs were the same bolt pattern, maybe it has to do with the year of the vehicle?
I have not put all the parts on yet, but I have a ruff stuff disc conversion with the el dorado calipers for the e brake. Still need to get e brake cables though


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What brake booster do you have?


I swapped in a dual diaphram then a different master cylinder (WJ I think) and the brakes are t so great with just the Sterling 10.25 drums. I’m using summit racing braided lines to the factory hardline. I tried a Durango booster and the bolt pattern didn’t match up to my booster so im kind of stuck. I wish I could get better brakes for street so I just drive much slower/safer and hope for the best. Might need to adjust the drums a second time though. I got them to stop the tires while on Jack stands.


How did you do your disc conversion, or has that not been done yet?

I'm running the stock booster. Not sure on booster compatibility, I never looked into that. I picked chevy 3/4 ton front calipers for my 9" and Thunderbird front calipers on my front 44. I own a '74 3/4 chevy pick up so I'm familiar with the calipers. Also used the ruffstff weld on brackets. Look on my thread there should be some good photos of the swap parts all set up in there. The chevy calipers do not have parking brake provisions so for now I don't have a parking brake which is annoying. I anticipate I'll add a line lock at some point and use that a a parking brake.
 
I have a WJ MC and booster which is dual diaphragm. Hmm I thought that Durango and Dakota MCs were the same bolt pattern, maybe it has to do with the year of the vehicle?
I have not put all the parts on yet, but I have a ruff stuff disc conversion with the el dorado calipers for the e brake. Still need to get e brake cables though


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According to some digital notes I found, I have the WJ brake booster and master as well. Maybe I never swapped the master from the stock 1989 one I have, but I thought I did along with the flexible lines. The 98 or 99 durango Master Cylinder I grabbed from PnP wouldn’t slide over the studs. Wasn’t even close.
 
I'm running the stock booster. Not sure on booster compatibility, I never looked into that. I picked chevy 3/4 ton front calipers for my 9" and Thunderbird front calipers on my front 44. I own a '74 3/4 chevy pick up so I'm familiar with the calipers. Also used the ruffstff weld on brackets. Look on my thread there should be some good photos of the swap parts all set up in there. The chevy calipers do not have parking brake provisions so for now I don't have a parking brake which is annoying. I anticipate I'll add a line lock at some point and use that a a parking brake.


I’ll scroll through and check out the photos.
I’m in the ‘line locks weren’t designed for parking brakes’ school of thought. Even though they probably won’t be used long term. Don’t ask me why. I have no logical reason other than ‘I read it on the internet.’
 
I had heard that too. I looked around at some of those ricer e brakes but they're kind of gawdy. I found one that was kind of expensive but it was low profile, ratcheted, and had a hydraulic cylinder+reservior built in.
 
I’ll scroll through and check out the photos.
I’m in the ‘line locks weren’t designed for parking brakes’ school of thought. Even though they probably won’t be used long term. Don’t ask me why. I have no logical reason other than ‘I read it on the internet.’

Well line locks aren’t good for anything else.
 
Ordered the centric 131.67025 Mc but it doesn’t fit with my WJ booster. The two bolts don’t line up and the part of the MC that seats into the booster is too large to seat correctly.
@nate did you have to modify your MC to make it fit with your booster? Has anyone who has done this kind of swap had any issues like this?
Thanks in advance!


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