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Motor Mounts - what would you do?

tjmotter

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Texas
When you removed your original mounts, they were a snug fit. You go to install new aftermarket mounts and there is about 1/8" gap between the mounts and the motor side of the brackets.


What would you do?


- tighten the bolt to squeeze the brackets into the mount? - the motor side looks to be aluminum, could they break?
- leave the gap? - doesn't seem like a good idea,
- shim the gap with a washer? - sub-optimal but could work.
- send the mounts back and try a different brand? - it could take a while to get a set that fits perfect.
 
Washers,washers,washers!
 
What brand mounts? I'm assuming stock replacements?

I'd go SFR/MORE/Brown Dog style mounts instead.
 
Try another brand of motor mounts.


Agree, assuming you vehicle aint bent.

For the rear tranny mount i did a cheapo reapo stock replacement from Autozone. Failed within 1200 miles, the rubber just plain collapsed, transfercase rubbing on skid plate in the middle of nowhere, had to shim it to limp home. got aftermarket urathane mounts, happy now.

beware of the cheapo reapo stock mounts.

If yours aint made right to fit upon install, them get rid of it.

They must fit, or they are crapola.

Dont mess with washers or shims, these should fit without that. Id not trust what you got to last if right out of the box it dont fit. Return it now, before it fails big time, oh wait it already is a fail!

Best of luck!
 
Oh, and also for the straight six motor, its fan is really close to the radiator, if motor mounts collapse, tear, etc the motor can tilt forward, driving the fan into the radiator. So add a new fan and radiator plus a few gallons of Prestone to the cost of cheapo reapo motor mounts.
 
what mounts are you trying to use that dont fit? that's a bit odd.
I have brown dog, ide recommend them, m.o.r.e( the big ones) because they look like they eat vibes lol, sfr..... other than m.o.r.e. variant everything is a copy really.
 
What brand mounts? I'm assuming stock replacements?

I'd go SFR/MORE/Brown Dog style mounts instead.


Stock replacements. Anchor 2572.


Brown Dog style wont fit. This XJ ('90 4.0L Laredo) is a little odd on the drivers side. The Passenger side inside edges are flat so a Brown Dog would fit but the drivers side has extra material that runs close to the shank in the mount. The point where the shank touches the mount must be beveled (like the Anchor model shown in the picture below).


 
Oh, and also for the straight six motor, its fan is really close to the radiator, if motor mounts collapse, tear, etc the motor can tilt forward, driving the fan into the radiator. So add a new fan and radiator plus a few gallons of Prestone to the cost of cheapo reapo motor mounts.


This is NOT going to be a problem.


thx
Todd
 
Throw those Anchors in the garbage. I put a set in for temporary use and the driver's side unit was ripping within 8000 miles. Replaced with Rusty's rubber mounts but wasn't happy with the vibes in the cab so went to actual MOPAR mounts.

If you want to use stock style mounts go to your dealer or to an online OEM supplier and buy actual no shit OEM mounts. They'll run you around 140 dollars but, think about how long your originals lasted and it's not that expensive per mile.

If you just can't afford OEM, I think NAPA carries some decent mounts compared to the anchor brand.
 
Did you loosen the bottom part of the mounts on the frame? I've done it multiple times and always tightened the top, then the bottom frame bolts, then the cross pin.
Seemed to be a lot of play/adjustment in the bottom frame bolts and mount.
After the first time, I always took the mount, cross pin and frame mount out as a unit. A bit of a pain with A/C but not all that problematic.
 
Yes, that is pretty much the process I follow. Changing these mounts is much easier than I expected. For installation I pushed the center bolt through the mount and then crawled under to get a couple of threads on the underside nut. Next I loosely fit the topside bolt, drop the engine just to the point where everything is sitting flush, tighten the topside bolt, tighten the underside bolt and last, tighten the "through" bolt. My issue is that I have at least 1/8" of air on the through bolt. Most of the strength of this connection is through the friction between the shank in the mount and the edges of the engine bracket. The bolt is there to supply clamping force, not shear strength so it seems my best option is to source an original Jeep mount.
 
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