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Removing wheel stud
- Thread starter dmillion
- Start date
Rev Den
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Plainfield, IL
Hammer, drift punch worked for me. You may want to pull the assembaly 1st and support the flange around the stud. I did it on the XJ, but it may be hard on the bearing.
Rev
Rev
No BFJ
BFH is a bad idea because of the c-clip axle. Hammering on it can damage the c-clip causing all kinds of very expensive problems later on.
Of course, if I take the entire hub assembly off the Jeep, then pounding on it isn't a problem, but I was hoping to not have to do that.
BFH is a bad idea because of the c-clip axle. Hammering on it can damage the c-clip causing all kinds of very expensive problems later on.
Of course, if I take the entire hub assembly off the Jeep, then pounding on it isn't a problem, but I was hoping to not have to do that.
FatXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- South Range, MI
Re: No BFJ
How is a BFH bad for this? You are pounding inward so there is no stress on the C-Clip and it's not going to be any more force than what you exert on it by driving it around.
dmillion said:
How is a BFH bad for this? You are pounding inward so there is no stress on the C-Clip and it's not going to be any more force than what you exert on it by driving it around.
i broke one last week and did'nt replace it yet but i took the broken one out, i did'nt even need a hammer, 1 hit with a 1/2" drive ratchet popped it right out like it was nothing. Reason i did'nt replace it yet is because they way i went about doing it is putting the new stud in, then putting some washers on it and a big nut to pull the stud through and into place but i can't get enough damn torque on the nut to pull the stud through even with a 1/2" breaker bar, guess i need air tools.
Eric
Eric
sidriptide
nobody of any consequence
- Location
- western massachusetts
i spun a stud in the hub last month and it would not reset for nothing... the replacement from napa didnt fit tight i guess the hole was damamged.. i had to throw a tack weld on the back to hold it in place
mike
mike
akennedy99
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Chelmsford, MA
I've done u-joints and I can't remember, do you have to pull the axle shaft to replace the wheel stud on the front, or can you slide 1 stud out without doing this?
ParadiseXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paradise, CA 95969
I removed ALL my studs on all my hubs. I thought it was going to be a nightmare.
I doused them all with PB, next morning I just had to give them a few taps with a L(as in little)FH. Just a regular hammer with less force than pounding in a 16 penny nail. After two or three taps they gave way. It took me about 5 minutes to remove 20 studs.
My alternative (plan B) was to use a big socket and a C-clamp and press it out, but I never had to go that route. Plan C was heat and tap, Plan D was to rent an appropriate tool like a ball joint press.
I doused them all with PB, next morning I just had to give them a few taps with a L(as in little)FH. Just a regular hammer with less force than pounding in a 16 penny nail. After two or three taps they gave way. It took me about 5 minutes to remove 20 studs.
My alternative (plan B) was to use a big socket and a C-clamp and press it out, but I never had to go that route. Plan C was heat and tap, Plan D was to rent an appropriate tool like a ball joint press.
akennedy99
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Chelmsford, MA
So do you have to remove the shafts?
gambit4000s
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- 865
Press or hammer the replacement in. You usually cannot generate enough force with the threads, it will not seat fully or shear the replacement stud.
ParadiseXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paradise, CA 95969
No. But on the fronts, the dust shield for the brakes was kind of problematic. I cut a small notch (1/2" x 1/2") in the shield to allow the studs to come out as I rotated the position relative to the notch. The rears...no sweat. I have a D44 on the MJ if that makes a difference
I put in studs that were 1" longer, I used an old wheel spacer and the open ended nuts that came with the spacer. I greased the stud ferrule (?) and cranked on the stud with a breaker bar. The studs pulled right in, and seated into the recessed part of the hub flange. I did have to do a little searching for the right studs, and they were $2.25 a piece. $45 for all new studs.
as long as the new stud is seated somewhat, drive on it. tighten the lug nut everyday until you seat the stud all the way. one stud not seated all the way will be safe for this procedure. i have no press, and have broken new studs by trying to install them all the way on the first try with big wrenches, air impacts, etc.
Talyn
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Radford, Communistwealth of Virginia
ParadiseXJ
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Paradise, CA 95969
Like I said, that was Plan B. With the torque required I didn't think I could crank it as hard as a 1/2 drive breaker bar with a cheater pipe. It was like butter. The "wings" on a C-clamp would never have given me that much uumph.
