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  #16  
Old October 27th, 2020, 06:35
gearwhine gearwhine is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

Quote:
Originally Posted by Ralph77 View Post
Factory nutstrips have 5 nuts in the strip.
Yes, there are 5 on the factory nut strips, but one of them sits outside of the frame rail. Despite 5 and 5...they are not in the same locations.

Lots of options...and they're all different. Hopefully these photos help clear it up.

Stock style nut strip


Installed - notice it sits outside. Best photo I could find on the web


JCR Nut Strip


Then...you have dirt bound offroad that creates 2 different bumper mounting brackets. This bracket includes the rearward nut that others do not (notice the lone nut on the other side of the mounting plate)...but does not include that offset nut furthest forward.

Last edited by gearwhine; October 27th, 2020 at 06:41. Reason: spelling
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  #17  
Old October 27th, 2020, 08:16
Ralph77 Ralph77 is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

Yeah those good shots.
All I could find was the ones at the link I posted and you couldn't tell squat.
That 5th one outside the uni-body is one of the mounting points for my factory rear tow hooks.
Still can't figure out why Circle S made them like they did.
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  #18  
Old May 24th, 2021, 10:06
Rob Mayercik's Avatar
Rob Mayercik Rob Mayercik is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

Decided to revive this thread, as I bought a set of these and have them about 90% installed on my 92. Thought I'd lay out how it went for me:

Rear crossmember cutouts: Not difficult, I did them with my Dremel. Burned up 12 metal cutting discs and a grinding disc. I did not cut out exactly as shown on the eBay ad, though - I left the "bottom" lip of the crossmember in place, though and just used the grinding wheel to knock down the top layer of metal right at the bottom of the hole so the bracket would sit flat. Figured keeping the lower flange of the crossmember intact would be a good idea.

Inserting the brackets: straightforward, with two exceptions. First, I had to bust out the Sawzall and trim down the bolts holding the leaf spring shackles into the hangar boxes a little. The brackets have cutouts for these to sit in, but if like me you're doing this with the truck sitting on its own suspension, if the bolts extend more than 1/8 inch into the frame rail cavity you're going to hang up on them. Since the nut is outside the frame rail itself, no loss in strength and much easier than dropping the shackles (which I'm not equipped to do anyway), as long as your saw blades have teeth. Note to self: cutting through the second half of a leaf spring bolt with hacksaw blade by hand using a Stanley(TM) MultiSaw handle makes for tired arms.

Second, on the passenger side I have the little piece of 1/8 plate that seems to be the backer of that tailpipe hanger mentioned by Ralph77 and DzlDust. I tried beating it out with a prybar and hammer, but no joy. After reviewing this thread just now, I'm thinking that since I have the brackets out again for the moment (see below), there may be a fair bit of the rivets left from when I removed the rotted OEM hanger years ago still holding things together. I might try drilling those out next weekend when I try to finish the job, see if that frees the darn thing up. If not, back to Plan A, which was using the carbide burr to egg the holes in the rear plate of the brackets to allow the bumper mount brackets to pass through.

Alignment of nuts to frame holes: Surprisingly good - 6 of 10 were properly aligned, the remaining (3 the driver's side and one on the passenger) needed only very minor massaging of the holes with the carbide burr in my Dremel. None of them took more than 10 seconds with the burr to address, and they were pretty much all front-back adjustments - they were all about dead on for left-right positioning for me. Considering I've been wheeling this truck since late 2001, I'd say that's a bloody good fit.

I nearly had the whole job done in a little over an afternoon (about 10:30-18:30 with about 45 min for lunch), but got stymied near the finish line because when I stacked the mounting brackets for my Rusty's Trail bumper onto the new brackets, the OEM bumper bolts couldn't reach the threads any more. Going to have to hit the local mill supply store next weekend and get something about 1/8-1/4 longer and fully-threaded, as I've got nearly 1/4" of metal stacked up now behind the rear crossmember between the two brackets. I might just send Circle-S a quick note and suggest they offer as an option an extended set of bolts for the bumper.

Overall, I'm pleased with the fitment and beef, and the install was pretty straightforward. I'd definitely recommend them.
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  #19  
Old June 8th, 2021, 10:32
Rob Mayercik's Avatar
Rob Mayercik Rob Mayercik is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

Just a quick update...

Drilling out what I thought were the rivets didn't work for me on the exhaust hanger , either it's rust-fused in there too well or Jeep welded the thing in back in 91 when they built this thing. In any event I do not have the ability to knock the darn thing out of there, so I resorted to my "plan B" and opened up the holes in the vertical plates until the bolts cleared.

This means that on the passenger side the bottom of the bracket is not actually going to be in contact with the frame rail except where that little plate is. Anyone think this might be an issue, or should I consider making up some sort of "shims" out of some plate I bought for reinforcing my parking brake cable brackets to fill that gap up, at least between the hanger plate and the back of the vehicle?

(edit) Just had another thought - maybe instead of shimming, it might be better to notch the underside of the circle-S bracket to clear that plate?
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Last edited by Rob Mayercik; June 8th, 2021 at 10:37.
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  #20  
Old June 8th, 2021, 11:21
RCP Phx RCP Phx is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

Quote:
Originally Posted by Rob Mayercik View Post
Just a quick update...

Drilling out what I thought were the rivets didn't work for me on the exhaust hanger , either it's rust-fused in there too well or Jeep welded the thing in back in 91 when they built this thing. In any event I do not have the ability to knock the darn thing out of there, so I resorted to my "plan B" and opened up the holes in the vertical plates until the bolts cleared.

This means that on the passenger side the bottom of the bracket is not actually going to be in contact with the frame rail except where that little plate is. Anyone think this might be an issue, or should I consider making up some sort of "shims" out of some plate I bought for reinforcing my parking brake cable brackets to fill that gap up, at least between the hanger plate and the back of the vehicle?

(edit) Just had another thought - maybe instead of shimming, it might be better to notch the underside of the circle-S bracket to clear that plate?
It would be best to remove it.
[/QUOTE]
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  #21  
Old June 9th, 2021, 10:11
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Rob Mayercik Rob Mayercik is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

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Originally Posted by RCP Phx View Post
It would be best to remove it.
I'd like nothing better than to get it out of there, but so far I've been unsuccessful in getting to even budge.

I did re-read your bumper thread last night, saw that pic of the plate. I also read the text on how you got the thing out of there (hence the edit to my last post). That leaves me with two questions for you:

1. Since I don't have a plasma cutter, do you think that if I were to get a Dremel cutting wheel in there to make small cuts down through the frame rail at the welds, then go under the rail and grind back "under" the plate slightly, would that likely compromise the welds enough that I could finally hammer it loose?

2. When you plasma cut the welds on yours, did those cuts go all the way through the rail? If so, did you weld those shut again or just treat to prevent rust and assume that the box-tube inserts that hold your bumper on would make up for the "lost strength"? I don't have a welder either, but plate appears to fall between the last two bolts on my so ultimately the cuts would be sandwiched between them and my new gas tank skid. I'm a little concerned about compromising the strength of the rail, but with the bracket inside and the skid outside, maybe I'm over-thinking.

Appreciate your thoughts!
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  #22  
Old June 9th, 2021, 10:19
RCP Phx RCP Phx is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

My original intention was to drill out the welds, with a little work I suppose you could use a Dremel. Yes I cleaned up the area with some small welds.
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  #23  
Old June 10th, 2021, 08:50
SlowXj SlowXj is offline
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Circle S bumper brackets

I installed these 1.5 ish years ago on a 96. A few well placed holes made with a drill from the bottom took care of the exhaust bracket thingy. (A cold chisel finished the job) after that I think I had to clearance one of the bumper holes for 10 seconds with a die grinder. They fit well and are super beef imo.
One thing I do recommend is to double nut the bumper bolts (I only did the 4 inner of the 8 bolts) I think this adds substantial strength for basically no money.

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  #24  
Old June 10th, 2021, 09:52
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Rob Mayercik Rob Mayercik is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

Ok, sounds like my plan is reasonable then. Might try drilling first though, see if I can save myself spending the $30 on the flex-shaft attachment for the Dremel. Just have to study RCP's pic a little more to work out where to place the holes.

SlowXj, the double nuts are an interesting idea, but how do they clear the leaf spring shackles? Think it's already pretty tight in that spot anyway, particularly with aftermarket lift shackles, right?


In any event, thanks for the advice, guys.
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  #25  
Old June 10th, 2021, 10:09
SlowXj SlowXj is offline
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Circle S bumper brackets

The picture shows the ones I double nutted

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  #26  
Old June 10th, 2021, 10:27
RCP Phx RCP Phx is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

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Originally Posted by SlowXj View Post
The picture shows the ones I double nutted

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I'm not sure what your doing? I replaced my 8 bolts on the valance with studs (using the factory insert nuts) and I bolt the bumper on with lock-washers and nuts.
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  #27  
Old June 10th, 2021, 10:47
maxbraketorque maxbraketorque is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

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Originally Posted by Rob Mayercik View Post
Ok, sounds like my plan is reasonable then. Might try drilling first though, see if I can save myself spending the $30 on the flex-shaft attachment for the Dremel. Just have to study RCP's pic a little more to work out where to place the holes.

SlowXj, the double nuts are an interesting idea, but how do they clear the leaf spring shackles? Think it's already pretty tight in that spot anyway, particularly with aftermarket lift shackles, right?


In any event, thanks for the advice, guys.
As RCP Phx noted, there are two pretty decent welds holding that thing in place. I initially tried drilling and then grinding out the welds, but I gave up after the first hole kept getting bigger and bigger without the piece coming loose at all. Part of the problem is that its hard to identify the location of the welds.

What eventually worked for me in very short order was to whack the thing out with a sledge and a solid metal bar extension. I lined up the bar to push the piece down the tunnel. I used just enough upward angle on the bar to keep the bar from readily jumping over the piece. I think it came loose in about six good whacks. My recollection is that I lined up the bar to apply force at the point of the weld so that it sheared it cleanly off. There was some weld material left proud in the tunnel, so I ended up grinding a pocket in the bumper support bracket.
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  #28  
Old June 10th, 2021, 12:25
RCP Phx RCP Phx is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

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Originally Posted by SlowXj View Post
One thing I do recommend is to double nut the bumper bolts (I only did the 4 inner of the 8 bolts) I think this adds substantial strength for basically no money.
I don't see how that could provide any additional strength?
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  #29  
Old June 11th, 2021, 10:08
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Rob Mayercik Rob Mayercik is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxbraketorque View Post
As RCP Phx noted, there are two pretty decent welds holding that thing in place. I initially tried drilling and then grinding out the welds, but I gave up after the first hole kept getting bigger and bigger without the piece coming loose at all. Part of the problem is that its hard to identify the location of the welds.
Yeah, that's a concern I have as well, since in my case I've got 30 years of "aging" obscuring there the welds were. That's why I was thinking of a Dremel Flex-Shaft and cutting wheel to make a short "slot cut" along the edge of the thing around where it looks like on RCP's pic the welds ought to be (assuming, of course, that a 92's plate was welded in the same way as his 2K was).

Quote:
Originally Posted by maxbraketorque View Post
What eventually worked for me in very short order was to whack the thing out with a sledge and a solid metal bar extension. I lined up the bar to push the piece down the tunnel. I used just enough upward angle on the bar to keep the bar from readily jumping over the piece. I think it came loose in about six good whacks. My recollection is that I lined up the bar to apply force at the point of the weld so that it sheared it cleanly off. There was some weld material left proud in the tunnel, so I ended up grinding a pocket in the bumper support bracket.
By "solid metal bar extension" do you mean a socket extension? Want to make sure I undertstand the term as you are using it.

I tried using a "wrecking bar" like this: ( https://www.lowes.com/pd/Kobalt-Pryb...ng-Bar/4777015, with the) flat end against the plate and beating on the curved end with a 3lb crosspeen hammer (was the closest one to hand at the time). When the wrecking bar wasn't jumping off the plate, it didn't seem like I was making any headway toward knocking it loose.

I do have a 3lb hand sledge I could use instead of the crosspeen, and I can cut a piece of the 1x1x1/8 angle iron I have laying around to give me a little more length than the wrecking bar, and I can put the point of the angle as close to the weld as I can get it to try and focus the force.

Or do I need something bigger than 3lbs? I do have a 10lb sledge as well, but it's not a "hand" model so it would be a bit unwieldly to try and use one-handed...
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  #30  
Old June 11th, 2021, 12:46
maxbraketorque maxbraketorque is offline
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Re: Circle S bumper brackets

I've found that pry bars like what you show don't work too well for how you tried to use it. Too much flex or a tendency to skip off the target. I used a 1/2" diameter x 18" piece of reasonable strength steel. It was part of a garage door torsion spring tensioner package I bought a few years ago. I can't remember if I used my framing hammer or my 10 lb sledge. I probably used my 10 lb sledge which as you suspect would have been hard to use with one hand. I'd try your 3 lb hand sledge.
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