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2001 XJ build plan, input welcome

anthrax323

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Antonio, TX
Hey everyone,

So I've been doing some reading on various projects and mods people have documented here, and I think I've finally come up with a game plan for my build... Please feel free to give input, as I'm still by no means an expert (but eager to learn).

The general goal here is an all-conditions, all-purpose daily driver and trail rig (no outright rock crawling though - I want to preserve the sheet metal on this one). Good road manners are absolutely key here as well... I prefer that my cars be pleasant to drive :p.

  • Rubicon Express 3.5" Super-Ride lift w/ long-arm conversion
    I'm sure this will be an interesting conversation all its own, but I would like this thing to be "overengineered" to a certain extent and absolutely bullet-proof (I really don't want to mess with the control arms ever again after doing the lift, honestly). Additionally, the long-arm conversion would give me far more flexibility for additional lift later.

    The added benefit of the RE crossmember is decent protection for the transfer case, which brings me to...
  • NV242 swap
    I know the pros and cons of the NP231 and NV242, as it's a pretty hot topic of debate apparently, but I personally would like full-time 4WD at my disposal. The SYE options for this case are limited, I know, but when it comes time to get the ball rolling I'll be ready to tackle that obstacle (I'd like to avoid a hack-and-tap setup, so I know this might get pricey).

    A question here as well - are the NV242 cases uniform in terms of mounting points and selector location? If possible, I'd like to put in an NV242 HD from a Durango...
  • WJ front brake swap
    I want as much stopping power as possible while still retaining the ability to use Mopar factory (and compatible) parts.
  • KJ rear disc brake swap
    More braking power is always good... Awesome write-up here.
  • Eaton/Detroit TrueTrac differentials, front and rear, 4.10 gears
    I don't think I'm ever going to put myself in a situation where I need full lockers (and don't want to deal with the installation to be quite honest), and from my understanding they come pretty close to fully locked with a bit of brake preloading... Is this true?

    I already have a 29-spline 8.25" in the rear, so I don't feel too compelled to pursue any kind of rear axle swap.
And in terms of protection...

  • RigidCo FbW front bumper
    I don't think I really need to explain this one (winch advice would be great though, especially if there are good values to be had in the used/second-hand market).
  • Hanson rear bumper and tire carrier
    This is 100% dependent upon whether or not the integrated 2" receiver is also rated for towing (I can't find anything confirming it is, so I'm guessing it's probably not). I want to be able to tow with this rig, but don't like how low the factory hitch sits.
That's about all I've come up with thus far. Think I'm heading in the right direction? I'd like to get this all sorted out before my bonus check is cut...

*grin*
 
I like your thinking-- low lift with long arms, full time 4wd, Torsen diffs, reasonable gearing... This is exactly what I would do if I had that much money to spend.
 
Sounds like you have done your homework, I think its a good plan all except the NV242. I just work on a lot of full time 4wd vehicles and all the wear and tear it does to front end parts, axles, gears, tires and steering. Plus wheeling its better to have 2wd and 4wd IMO. And if you plan to go with more lift later why not just do the RE 4.5 LA kit now?

And last IMO buying a used winch can be good or bad lots of people out there dont know how to use a winch correctly and abuse them then try and sell them, there are a lot of good deals on new winches lots under $500.
 
I love my 242 tehe
 
Thanks for the input guys.

JRW - I know it can take its toll over time, however, I have no plans to run in full-time 4WD all the time. It's fantastic for varying marginal conditions, particularly early snowfall (before plows and salt trucks hit the roads), and is something I really and truly do want. An added benefit of the NV242 is the fact that in addition to full-time 4WD, I'll have the standard NP231 part-time modes at my disposal (4HI, 4LO) and good ol' 2HI.

With regard to the lift, 4.5" is a bit more than I want to go... I'm planning on running 31x10.5's and think 3.5" will be perfect (and even then I look forward to it sagging by about half an inch over time).

On the winch note - very good call. The protection upgrades will be the very last things I do, which should give me plenty of time to find a good deal on a new winch.
 
Truthfully I had no problems running a 4.5" lift in west virginia (where it really snows) with either the 32" mud tires or the 31" all terrains I have snow and ice. The option of having the 4wd there was good if I ever felt I needed it, which I did on the bad days. I have the 231 xfer case and it's not bad at all, with open diffs. The lift is a good choice, should perform well offroad and on. Could consider swapping the idea of the 242 for a rear disc setup? my 2 cents
 
[*]NV242 swap
I know the pros and cons of the NP231 and NV242, as it's a pretty hot topic of debate apparently, but I personally would like full-time 4WD at my disposal. The SYE options for this case are limited, I know, but when it comes time to get the ball rolling I'll be ready to tackle that obstacle (I'd like to avoid a hack-and-tap setup, so I know this might get pricey).
The only SYE option available for the 242 is the hack & tap SYE. The kit from Tom Woods that gives you the shaft and all, is still a H&T kit, they just cut the shaft on a lathe for you.

Why do you want to avoid a H&T set up? Most of the people who say they wouldn't trust them are people who have never had the set up. I've run a H&T on my 242 for 4 years with not one problem at all.

Sounds like you have done your homework, I think its a good plan all except the NV242. I just work on a lot of full time 4wd vehicles and all the wear and tear it does to front end parts, axles, gears, tires and steering. Plus wheeling its better to have 2wd and 4wd IMO. And if you plan to go with more lift later why not just do the RE 4.5 LA kit now?
Ugh, why do so many people think the 242 transfercase is a full time 4wd transfercase without 2 wheel drive? We are not talking about the Grand Cherokee NP249 here. A 242 transfercase is not a full time 4wd transfercase. It has the exact same selections as a 231, but it has the extra option of AWD.
 
First of all, it is a NP242. Second, sure Tom Wood's stuff is still a "hack 'n tap". However, it is done with the proper equipment to ensure everything is up to spec, and within the correct tolerances. It's not someone sitting under their rig with a hand drill. Not saying 100s of Jeepers haven't been succesful going this route; it is just not one that I prefer.

As far as the long arms concerned, your lift height could be an issue. I'm not sure that any of the kits are designed to run that low. Meaning, none of the lowers will adjust down far enough for what you are after. Along the same lines, how much articulation are you after? It doesn't look like you are going to trim. I would personally shoot for a 4.5 OME Hybrid lift. Running RE drop brackets and braces with JKS control arms. Something like this is going to ride like a caddy.

Everything else seems very well thought out. I would opt for the Tru Trac in the 8.25. It is a solid unit, and you are correct on the braking/lock issue. You can lock up a TT by feathering the brakes. 4.10s are a solid match for the 31s as well. Normally I would recommend Precision Gear. However they do not make a R&P for the 8.25. In which case, I would recommend Superior Gear.

It is a nice change to see someone who has planned out their first build, and is not afraid to spend a little money to get the right components the first time around.................:thumbup:
 
If you find yourself in Wisconsin I'll trade you my 242 for your 231.
Also, Have you thought about putting a HP D30 up front to replace the LP D30 that came with the '01.
 
Thanks for all the input guys, I'm really looking forward to building this baby. Interestingly enough, you've inspired me on the high-pinion D30 point...

I'm planning on pulling a complete one from an XJ at LKQ this weekend (as well as another XJ front driveshaft and a 242 to begin rebuilding it and to get the SYE conversion out of the way). At this point, I'm hoping to do a bench build-up of these parts the coming months to give me time to buy all the other components and get the WJ brakes, new gears, and limited slip diff pre-installed (without impacting my ability to use the vehicle). I'm also considering doing an over-the-top conversion (from Rocky Road) to address possible suspension geometry issues (not sure since they only recommend it for 4" of lift or more). Doing the WJ brake conversion might pose some complications though, so this thought will require further research.

With the HP D30, will I run into exhaust clearance issues with 3.5" of lift? This axle will not be installed until the lift goes on. Remember this is a 2001 model, which from my understanding has a different exhaust system that warrants the LP D30 from the factory.

Does this sound like a good idea? I picked up my Moabs w/ MT/R's this past Friday, which has given me further determination to get this build going :D

moabs2.jpg
 
Nice Build up plan. Do you already have the 4.10's? Whats your final tire size plan? 4.10's would be nice with 31's but I would want 4.56's with 33's. the tru trac would be a good option on the front with the 242. Dont get a manual locker for the front if you want to keep your full time. For the rear I would go ahead and get a no-slip. You wont really notice it on the street so you might as well get the traction advantages of a locker. I did a no slip and loved it very well behaved on the street great off road. Installation is a breeze due to the c-clips on the 8.25".

As allready stated hack and tap only on the 242. The Tom Woods kit is a stock shaft that is cut down and resplined to 26 spline. I've seen people say this messes up the heat treatment of the shaft. I ran a Tom Woods kit for 4 years before I got rid of my XJ and had no problems with it other than the driveshaft was out of balance when I got it.Here Is a good thread on 242 SYEs
http://www.pirate4x4.com/forum/archive/index.php/t-289864.html

If you go with a 242hd froma dakota/durango it will not have a spedo gear you could swap your gage cluster for one that works with a tone ring or VSS. Not sure if the ECU needs the spedo input I'm sure someone will chime in though. There are not any SYE kits for the 32 spline output shaft so you will have to do something custom. You could take your 242 and upgrade to the wider chain and planitaries and keep the 27 spine outputshaft. I think a few people have done this sucessfully read this whole thread great information in there. Also a couple of guys in there who have done a 32 spline sye custom.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?t=74313

My only other recomendation might be to try to find a HP 30 to swap over. edit mised that part of your post good deal not sure on the exhaust I had a 99.
 
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Spooky - thanks a TON for the details on the 242HD. Based on what you've described, I don't think that's what I'm going to go for (a bit more work than I want at this point in my experience). The standard 242 should be more than sufficient for my uses.

My last post detailed my plans on the HP D30 swap, but I realized I have more questions on that front... I know vacuum disconnect axles were used up through 1991, so I definitely want to avoid them. What axle would be the most direct/simplest swap? Based on what I've read, I'd need to look for a 1996 to 1999 axle... Is this correct?
 
Quick cut and past from here http://www.yuccaman.com/jeep/history.html#axles

Dana 30 axles with the NP231, 1987 through 1991 are vacuum disconnect
NP242 Selec-Trac will not have the disconnect
All 1992+ are non-disconnect
All 84-88 D30s have 5-260x u-joints (1 1/16" diameter caps)
1989-95 non-ABS have 5-260x u-joints
1989-95 with ABS have 5-297x u-joints (1 3/16" diameter caps)
All 1995 1/2+ have 5-297x u-joints
5-297x u-joints can be replaced with the stronger 5-760x u-joint


So 95.5 to 99 or ealier with a 242 and abs 89-95
 
You're the man!

One last question on the 242... Will one pulled from a ZJ be a direct fit into the XJ? Are there any other suitable donors that would require little to no fabrication or creativity?
 
Not sure a zj with a aw4 and a 242 should be a direct bolt up but I think there can be a difference in short or long input shaft lengths. There could also be a 21 spline or 23 spline input depending on year. I've been out of jeeps for awhile so some of what I remember is probably questionable. I'm thinking about building another xj again and want to do the HD 242 this time.
 
Damn, that would put a damper in things... 242-equipped XJs seem to be rare in this part of the country (especially in junk yards).

Anyone else know if the ZJ 242 is a direct fit into the XJ? This would be assuming it's out of a 4.0 model ZJ w/ the AW4.
 
Hi...New to the forum, but not new to XJ's. I just picked up a very clean for Minnesota '97 XJ w/119k miles, Auto with NP242. I am interested in doing the exact same lift as you as I was inspired by this article from 4WD & Sport Utility.

My concern/confusion comes in with the statements made by RRO about long arms and referencing the same magazine as above having made the same conclusions that long arms aren't for a daily driver...doesn't make sense that the editor of the mag would put long arms on a XJ for his daughter then.

Anyway...anxious to see what u do, since I'm really leaning the same way.
 
Hi...New to the forum, but not new to XJ's. I just picked up a very clean for Minnesota '97 XJ w/119k miles, Auto with NP242. I am interested in doing the exact same lift as you as I was inspired by this article from 4WD & Sport Utility.

My concern/confusion comes in with the statements made by RRO about long arms and referencing the same magazine as above having made the same conclusions that long arms aren't for a daily driver...doesn't make sense that the editor of the mag would put long arms on a XJ for his daughter then.

Anyway...anxious to see what u do, since I'm really leaning the same way.

Long arm kits are perfectly fine for street, in fact they will handle better on the street then a short arm kit any day. Now major lift kit companies are selling LA kits for full size trucks because they handle so much better then a normal kit does. Just FYI.:thumbup:
 
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