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Fuse for power locks keeps blowing

Scriff

NAXJA Forum User
20 amp fuse on #13 of the driver's floorboard fuse panel, controls the power locks. It's just blown for the 3rd time in a couple months.

Does anyone have a suggestion on what I might need to look for? Or could I try putting a slightly larger fuse in there?

Thanks.
 
Sounds like you have a loose wire somewhere that keeps grounding. Had a similar problem with my 84 cj. I start by checking the wires on the drivers side door panel. You could also shake the rubber boot between the doors to see if you can force it to blow while doing so. This would tell you what side it may be on.
 
Scriff said:
20 amp fuse on #13 of the driver's floorboard fuse panel, controls the power locks. It's just blown for the 3rd time in a couple months.

Does anyone have a suggestion on what I might need to look for? Or could I try putting a slightly larger fuse in there?

Thanks.

switch is bad causing a short or there is a short in the wiring somewhere.

larger fuse will still blow and possibly cause more damage.

what tranny? 5speed will drip fluid from the master cylinder onto the fuse block causing shorts.
 
My '90 did the same thing. It was the wires in the rubber boot between the door and the door frame on the drivers door. Several wires were broken, and touching together at random. I simply ran new wires from the door to the harness inside the kick panel,and spliced them into the harness.
 
Thanks all. I'll start at the switch block in the driver door and work my way over to the fuse panel. I've had to pull that door apart a good number of times so there's probably a good chance i messed up some of the wires going into the rubber boot thingy.

I do have a 5-speed but I'm pretty sure the MC is fine. I'll check there too just to make sure.
 
well figured out what the problem was... chalk it up to I am an ass. :dunce:

For those who care... back during fall I locked my keys in the car one night at dinner, and had to use a coathanger to slim jim the lock open. In the process of doing this I yanked the wire and harness that runs from the lock button to the actual lock. I opened the door up and plugged it back in the next day. Turns out I routed the wire wrong, and the the window was coming down on the wire. The metal clamp that holds the window on the bottom and follows the round guide bar had opened one of the wires up slightly and thats where it was grounding. But this was only when the window was open, which is why its been happening a lot recently, because the temps have been getting warmer this month (in the 70s all this week) and I have had the window open quite a bit more than usual.
 
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