Huck
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minneapolis
How time consuming, and expensive, is it to rebuild a newer D30 (97+) hub to hub. I.e., new bearings, seals, u-joints, etc. (Doing it yourself...no shop labor.) Anyone sell a kit for this??
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rebuild HP D30?
- Thread starter Huck
- Start date
MrShoeBoy
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Cincinnati, OH
Wheel bearings are a sealed hub unit and cost $150 or so each. Its possable to get them cheaper but on average I have seen them for $150.
A gear instal kit which has all all the needed bearings and shims. A master instal kit costs around $80.
The Ring and pinion costs $130 to $200 depending on brand and vender.
Axleshaft seals cost about $5 each from napa.
New Spicer U joints cost around $20 each.
Ball joints cost approx $50 each for a total of $200 for all 4.
Changing wheel bearings and u joints are not too bad depending on the condition of the axle. The more rusty and mud caked, the worse off its going to be.
The ring and pinion is a little bit more difficult. There area a few special tools needed and if you are off by a few thousands of an inch, BOOM goes your ring and pinion
I can pull my front end appart in less than an hour and a half but then again I have taken my front end appart countless times and everything is coated in antiseize for ease of removal.
AARON
A gear instal kit which has all all the needed bearings and shims. A master instal kit costs around $80.
The Ring and pinion costs $130 to $200 depending on brand and vender.
Axleshaft seals cost about $5 each from napa.
New Spicer U joints cost around $20 each.
Ball joints cost approx $50 each for a total of $200 for all 4.
Changing wheel bearings and u joints are not too bad depending on the condition of the axle. The more rusty and mud caked, the worse off its going to be.
The ring and pinion is a little bit more difficult. There area a few special tools needed and if you are off by a few thousands of an inch, BOOM goes your ring and pinion
I can pull my front end appart in less than an hour and a half but then again I have taken my front end appart countless times and everything is coated in antiseize for ease of removal.
AARON
- Location
- Port Orchard, WA
what do you mean rebuild?
whats wrong with your 8 year old alxe? mine is all origonal from 92 and runing strong (i changed the gear oil - thats it)
whats wrong with your 8 year old alxe? mine is all origonal from 92 and runing strong (i changed the gear oil - thats it)
Huck
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minneapolis
I'm planning on changing gears...and thought I'd rebuild the whole damn works while I was at it....but wasn't sure if it'd be an all-day, all-weekend...or much more prolonged affair.
I'm pretty good...but I'll assume, having never done one of these, I'm NOT gonna do it in an hour and a half, like you!
Thanks for the info. How much hassle is gear setup on these? Some description I read made it sound generally similar to a Ford 8.8 (I've done one of those.)
I'm pretty good...but I'll assume, having never done one of these, I'm NOT gonna do it in an hour and a half, like you!
Thanks for the info. How much hassle is gear setup on these? Some description I read made it sound generally similar to a Ford 8.8 (I've done one of those.)
pabloconrad
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- In the NW hunting Sasquatch
My first question is: How bad is it? If the bearings are in good shape, the ball joints in good shape, the ring and pinion clean, and the seals don't leak, then I'd leave it alone. "If it's not broke, don't fix it," say an old Navy saying. But we still did it anyway.
Change the gear oil and use a new gasket. It's expensive and could be time consuming if you do it all yourself. If you've never done a ring and pinion, leave it alone. Or find someone close by to help you out and teach you how to properly do it. You need to "pre-load" the bearings and measurments need to be nearly perfect.
If you're willing to change gears, then I'd rebuild the rest. The gears are the hardes part.
That way you have a new axel that will last at least 10 years.
Change the gear oil and use a new gasket. It's expensive and could be time consuming if you do it all yourself. If you've never done a ring and pinion, leave it alone. Or find someone close by to help you out and teach you how to properly do it. You need to "pre-load" the bearings and measurments need to be nearly perfect.
If you're willing to change gears, then I'd rebuild the rest. The gears are the hardes part.
That way you have a new axel that will last at least 10 years.
Last edited:
Huck
NAXJA Forum User
- Location
- Minneapolis
XJ_ranger said:
I've been running on just the front axle for a couple days while waiting for my new custom driveshaft. It's been rumbling and grumbling at the effort. Sounds to me like the bearings might be in kinda tough shape - somewhere in there. Could be just the wheel bearings on one side making that much more noise fully loaded (sounds much better in 4wd with both axles pulling...but I do hear some noise that I suspect to be wheel bearings...and I'm getting some cupping on the inside edge of my tires).
Planning to change gears...and get the source of that cupping sorted out, and just thought rebuilding the whole works might be worthwhile, since the most expensive parts are related to the gearchange I'm doing anyway, and the hub units which I can do selectively (without taking apart the rest of the axle, correct?)