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Upgraded Battery Cables

L

Locked98GC

NAXJA Forum User
Location
San Diego/IB
About 3 weeks ago I started to have no power issues. Jiggled the battery cables and got the power back. Did this about 6 times. I got some 4 gauge welding cable, lugs and an ANL fuse box/fuses. I crimped and soldered the lugs on and used the sealing/glue type shrink tubing.

Because I needed this fixed, I made my own. Took about 5 hours because of reinventing the wheel and running around town getting parts. Another 1 hour to install parts. Cost wise I spent $120. Could have been cheaper if I ordered the parts off the net @ about $85. I bought the items locally.

If you need to do this I would recommend getting the kits from 5-90 and save some time.
 
And some pictures.

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Hmm, looks like I need to install some new lugs on this.
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008_zps71bc5a39.jpg
 
Last edited:
mako my day said:
Looks great......but what's an anal fuse box?
Click to expand...

ANL fuse box - it's what is used to designate that particular fuse format (no, I don't know what it means. I haven't found out what ANY fuse designator means - ANL, MEGA, AGU, PAL, AGC - no idea. I don't think ANYONE knows anymore...

(But, when someone talks about an ANL fuse, I know it's a plastic wafer fuse assembly with slotted metal tabs that fits on 5/16" posts about 3" apart. A MEGA fuse is similar, but isn't slotted. No-one knows what they mean, but everyone knows what you're talking about. Kinda like government...)

OP - is that heat-shrink over the ends, or just stretch vinyl? Looks like it seals fairly well, but contaminant intrusion still looks possible. Miles better than OEM, tho!

EDIT - Just re-read, that is HST. Just looked funny - I'm not used to POHST being that shiny when it's done...
 
Last edited:
The red and black plastic are covers that came with the connectors. I put them over the heat shrink for aesthetics. On the positive post picture, you can see the black heat shrink poking out.
 
To read fuse information from the fuse itself.
http://www.tpub.com/neets/book3/8e.htm

To see a bunch of info and designations of circular fuses (automotive). Seems like no rhyme or reason for the designations. Well nothing I can wrap my arms around.
http://www.cooperindustries.com/con...oductsandaccessories/fuses/Glass_Ceramic.html

As for the ANL. A=? (C for Littlefuse) NL=Fast Acting and NN=Very Fast Acting. Again, not sure how they come up with the designations.

It also looks like that each MFG has their own designation also.
 
Last edited:
Looks like you might want to re-crimp new eyelets on the harness side of the dipstick grounds... Those are factory solders, and get super brittle from the heat...

--OOPS, see you saw that as well!--
 
Locked98GC said:
I know 5-90 was looking for fuseable links. Rummaging through the many websites I came across this.
http://www.littelfuse.com/products/...d-commercial-vehicle/cable-inline-fuses.aspx#

They are about $50 and only use 4 gauge up to 200 amps. I've only seen 2 places you can order these from so for me, I'd stay with the ANL set up.
Click to expand...

Thanks, but not usually what I'm trying to find. I'm wondering where OEMs get their 10AWG fusible link wire - I haven't seen that stuff anywhere.

ANL fuses 80-300A aren't a problem for me, I've been able to source them up through 600A without overmuch difficulty (just takes a little more looking.)

But fusible link wire over 12AWG seems to be bloody impossible - and I've gone from "just curious" almost to "holy quest" to figure out where this stuff can be had!
 
So far I've not had a problem with this mod. The lights are a little bit brighter and the starter kicks over a lot faster than when it was stock and still does. This mod is cheaper than going out and individually buying the 4 gauge cables from your favorite auto parts store. (The headlight mod will come later)

Like I say, go with 5-90 stuff and save the hassle of sourcing the items and building them.
 
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