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  #31  
Old November 13th, 2020, 16:08
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Re: Long Arm 'Upgrade'

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Originally Posted by NOTNSUV View Post
Available from where? Looked for 2 days.

Ordered from Rough Country instead.
4wheelparts, Amazon, Summit Racing?

Doesn’t bother me, sounds like you made a good choice.
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  #32  
Old November 13th, 2020, 18:45
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Re: Long Arm 'Upgrade'

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4wheelparts, Amazon, Summit Racing?

Doesn’t bother me, sounds like you made a good choice.
Phil,

Sorry if I came off snappy. I honestly thought you were RE replying to my inquiry(read it on my phone) . They eventually did but did not answer the question of whether I could get the support brace.


Thanks. I'll be just fine with the RC.
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Last edited by NOTNSUV; November 14th, 2020 at 08:52.
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  #33  
Old November 14th, 2020, 16:49
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Re: Long Arm 'Upgrade'

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The RE brackets drop about 3”, so at a 3” lift they’ll get you about stock angles. The braces are not included, but are available.
Using this methodology to measure lift (top of axle tube to "frame" bottom):

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=J_6N...ickInTimeFilms

I come up with 3.75" rear and 4.0" front. This is with tire carrier rear bumper, 33 x 10.50 KM2, high lift and RotoPax + gas tank skid and nearly full tank, along with all my recovery gear, fluids, etc. in the back (as it would be on the trail). AJ's winch bumper w/9000# Warn winch on the front.

Also FWIW, using a level with the rig on the floor it looks like the rear mount of the lower control arm is 4" above level with the front mount (center-center bolts) and an angle of 16* on the LCA.

If the RC CA brackets are 3" like the RE it sounds like it might work fine. Not doubting you guys, just checking things out (RC brackets are on their way).

With drop shackles already on the rear I'm thinking the addition of some lift with SRB, to improve shackle angle, might give it the stance and ride I'm after.

Also noticed one of my front bump stops laying in the bottom of the spring perch. Brittle/broken.

Appreciate all the feedback.
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  #34  
Old November 14th, 2020, 18:11
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Long Arm 'Upgrade'

Long arms. It’s easier to upgrade axles moving forward if you already have long arms to locate the axles. With short arms the first thing you’ll do when you want to replace axles is go long arm which just makes it more expensive.

When stuff starts breaking is when you’ll want to upgrade axles because they’re stronger than upgrading the ones you have. Same concept with long arms.
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  #35  
Old November 14th, 2020, 21:24
Evan03 Evan03 is offline
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Long Arm 'Upgrade'

Why would long arms make swapping axles easier.

My axle will work with short or long arms. Actually ran short arms raised on the axle end for awhile.
Even ran it 3link with johny joint in the factory driver side upper. However that was short lived because i pretzled the upper link.

If I ever go super duty axles ill build brackets to match my arms wich also match factory angles there just raised for nearly flat arms.

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  #36  
Old November 14th, 2020, 22:09
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Re: Long Arm 'Upgrade'

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Originally Posted by 89Mock View Post
Long arms. It’s easier to upgrade axles moving forward if you already have long arms to locate the axles. With short arms the first thing you’ll do when you want to replace axles is go long arm which just makes it more expensive.

When stuff starts breaking is when you’ll want to upgrade axles because they’re stronger than upgrading the ones you have. Same concept with long arms.
I'm way too old to be thinking about many more upgrades, and not axles for sure. FYI the diffs I have are from Eric Zappe's old XJ (Sierra Chapter EricsXJ) and pictured on the cover of his first XJ book, so they are built about as well as possible with Yukon axles, 4-wheel discs, ARB lockers, skids on everything, catcher's mask diff covers, Warn hubs..

https://smile.amazon.com/High-Perfor...2 C223&sr=8-3

456 with 33s and I don't see going to 35s anytime, at least until I wear out the like new KM2s. Fenders are trimmed + Rusty's steel fenders so clearance has not been an issue even with only 4" of lift. And it's a trail/hunting rig (with plenty of Nevada pin-striping) and as much as I think I'd like to run the Rubicon or Moab, the odds are slim.. rock crawling doesn't stoke my fire, and there are thousands of miles of BLM/USFS trails in the Western states I frequent. Hopefully with the way I drive it I won't be breaking stuff. Maybe if/when I chain it up on all 4 in the snow I'll have to be extra cautious.

If I was starting from scratch on a stock XJ I'd probably go with tons or such, at least D44 and 9in (of which I had both at one time, before the XJ that were to go in a '50 Willys pickup I HAD .. oops).

Thanks for the input tho', I'm just trying to optimize the setup I have.
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Last edited by NOTNSUV; November 14th, 2020 at 22:13.
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  #37  
Old November 15th, 2020, 18:32
89Mock 89Mock is online now
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Long Arm 'Upgrade'

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Originally Posted by Evan03 View Post
Why would long arms make swapping axles easier.

My axle will work with short or long arms. Actually ran short arms raised on the axle end for awhile.
Even ran it 3link with johny joint in the factory driver side upper. However that was short lived because i pretzled the upper link.

If I ever go super duty axles ill build brackets to match my arms wich also match factory angles there just raised for nearly flat arms.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

You can reuse your long arms for super duty axles. You can’t with short arms unless you bend them.

You do you.
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  #38  
Old November 15th, 2020, 22:20
Evan03 Evan03 is offline
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Long Arm 'Upgrade'

Maybe . I can't say as I've done the swap yet. Have you?

If supper duty link width can't get close to stock xj then my brackets at the frame will need to be adjusted to mach. Width is likely wider on dana60. However if not to drastic heims on axle and frame could make up for some miss alignment.

Maybe someday I'll have advice to give on the subject instead of jibberish off topic stuff like most mis informing replies are

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  #39  
Old November 18th, 2020, 04:58
89Mock 89Mock is online now
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Long Arm 'Upgrade'

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Originally Posted by Evan03 View Post
Maybe . I can't say as I've done the swap yet. Have you?

If supper duty link width can't get close to stock xj then my brackets at the frame will need to be adjusted to mach. Width is likely wider on dana60. However if not to drastic heims on axle and frame could make up for some miss alignment.

Maybe someday I'll have advice to give on the subject instead of jibberish off topic stuff like most mis informing replies are

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The super duty links aren’t close to XJ width. You’ll have to change the axle end of you links to a more flexible joint. This guy did the Artec truss with that axle and built his own because you have to bend them more for a short arm kit. I look forward to you’re link design since you’ll have real world experience.

How would you adjust the control arm brackets at the fea to go wider? Cut them off and weld them outside the ‘frame’ of the XJ? Seems more complicated than doing a long arm kit with intentions of upgrading later.


https://irate4x4.com/jeep/16027-dana...or-build/page2
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  #40  
Old November 18th, 2020, 09:12
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Re: Long Arm 'Upgrade'

This is a thread about bolt on long arms and drop brackets. I guarantee that is a different target market than one ton custom axles. Also, people’s skills, interests, and tools change over time. Also, not everyone is going to put one ton axles under a mild trail XJ.

I guarantee I am never going to take my little Wagoneer bigger than a D30/D44 combo and I am fine with that.
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  #41  
Old November 19th, 2020, 07:51
Evan03 Evan03 is offline
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Long Arm 'Upgrade'

I actually read the entire Rocky Rd page marketing theyre drop brackets. The pictures and words and in reality they are as good as they say and do improve ride and articulation.

But they lost me when they say that 8" lifted rig and 38" tires is theyre perfect rig. I wouldn't push control drop brackets on anyone wanting 8" if lift.

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  #42  
Old November 19th, 2020, 08:41
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Re: Long Arm 'Upgrade'

Rubicon Express wants $280 + $84 for braces at 4-Wheel Parts.
BTW RE 9905 for the braces.

https://www.4wheelparts.com/s/_/?Ntt...equestid=13834
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Last edited by NOTNSUV; November 19th, 2020 at 10:48.
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  #43  
Old November 21st, 2020, 23:38
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Re: Long Arm 'Upgrade'

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If your uppers and lowers are adjustable id throw drop brackets on and run it.

That way youl be able to adjust castor.

Before you put on drop brackets set angle finder on upper ball joint to get a base line#. Reinstall and set arms to match that or slightly more positive if it didn't drive super straight...

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Does this make sense to you? From comments on a YouTube channel "The Late Model Tech" doing CAD.

1 says what you've said if I'm reading it right.

Comments by The Death Wobble Channel:

1. "you can set the length anything over stock. you set both lowers to equal and then use the uppers to adjust the caster angle. if your floor is flat, you can either use the machined surface at the pinion end or the diff cover gasket surface.use a level or angle finder to set caster to 0 degrees and let the alignment guy set it with the rack and heads from there."

2. For a 4 inch lift, as the arms slant down the axle comes rearward.1/2 to 1 inch for the extra length on the lowers.also, as the axle goes down the front driveshaft needs to be shortened. when you go max droop and the slip yoke bottoms out, it puts pressure on the t case and it can break the case in half. at full droop, the axle comes back even further so be sure to drive accordingly, or get the shaft trimmed back. or consider lower arms that have 1 to 2 inches adjustment to bring axle forward just a bit."


#2 is where I'm not seeing it. With 'measured' 4" lift on front - axle top to 'frame' bottom - with 3.5" OME springs, and since the recommended minimum lift by the manufacturer of the CAD is 4.5" does #2 apply? JKS tells me the arms will adjust to "stock length" at minimum adjustment. Will I be in danger of getting into the xfer case and need to worry about driveshaft length? Ahhh.. I have SYE with Tom Woods driveshaft.

CAD and SRB go on in the next few days so hoping to have some confidence I'm not opening a can-o-worms. Will be looking hard at those OME leafs, they might be questionable. If so, worst case - I'm not adverse to new springs all the way around at 4.5". Would open up the possibility of 35s if I feel the 'need' - 4.56 and Rusty's fenders in place.

Steer me straight fellas. I hope my questions are clear. I appreciate your patience and experience.
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Last edited by NOTNSUV; November 21st, 2020 at 23:54.
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  #44  
Old November 22nd, 2020, 08:06
maxbraketorque maxbraketorque is offline
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Re: Long Arm 'Upgrade'

Issue #2 can be resolved with an appropriate driveshaft. The X-Tom Woods has an "X-spline" option that provides a greater range of shaft extension and contraction. I imagine that Adams Driveshaft has something similar.
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  #45  
Old November 22nd, 2020, 10:57
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Re: Long Arm 'Upgrade'

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Originally Posted by maxbraketorque View Post
Issue #2 can be resolved with an appropriate driveshaft. The X-Tom Woods has an "X-spline" option that provides a greater range of shaft extension and contraction. I imagine that Adams Driveshaft has something similar.
I guess it's time to put an eyeball on my Tom Woods. I didn't install it so no clue which it is. Then when CAD are installed inspect again.

https://4xshaft.com/blogs/faq/how-mu...uld-be-showing

Thanks.
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