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Looking for high quality control arms

Bushings on axle end flex joints on frame side is a good combo. I get no bind on the axle side poly joints and they keep the arm from flopping side to side.

If I was binding on my poly at the axle theyd be all chewd up.

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Heard/read the same. What's the benefit of poly over a flex joint? Smoother ride?



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I'm a big fan of rubber able side and flex joint frame side. I think it's the best combo of flexibility and comfort. Plus rubber is cheap

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Sfr has some softer poly bushings ive been meaning to try

Suddenly were getting some meat in this thread

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these hybrid joints look pretty good. I'm assuming there's less poly/rubber than a typical bushing.

anybody running these?
 
Im putting a full ironrockoffroad.com system on a wj. Will see what I think then

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also looks like they would wear out faster than a solid bushing and 10x faster than a flex joint....
 
Debating: Metalcloak or SFR double adjustable UCA/LCA and whether the JJ is better than the MC Duroflex. About the only difference I can see. I have rubber in the axle end of the UCA now and wondering if that'd be ok with the Duroflex on the other end. I've emailed MC about this.
 
Those look good and at 80 bucks they're priced about tge same as a heim. The bushing is alittle steep at 45. But does look nice.

These are consumables so I try not to spend a ton on them. Ive had good luck with plain old cheap heims

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Rock climber

That reply makes no since. Your worried about poly causing your control arm brackets to tear off. Hmmm the bolt on world must be full of cheap shit.
Maybe I need to read my reply again or maybe you do either way one of us is not seeing straight

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i *think* he means that poly bushings will transfer more force to the mount than a heim joint. But not 100% sure./..

correct.

this is why
More importantly bushings need to flex in all 3 dimensions "x-y-z", only a flex-joint provides that!

the OEM arms were designed to twist down the length of the arm, that is why they are the shape that they are, but its also why they get destroyed offroad.

when you replace them with a more solid arms to prevent trail damage, you take away the arms ability to twist. you then ask the arm to do all of that.

this causes rubber bushings to fail prematurely, as the bonded sleeve is now trying to pull itself away from the bushing every time the axle articulates.

so you replace the rubber bushings with poly bushings... great? not really. the poly bushings are stronger by far than the rubber bushings, but they also transfer nearly all of that twisting motion to the CA mounts.
the stock stamped sheet metal mounts will tear off
I have seen it a number of times. super common in XJs and TJs (they share the same design)

ultimately a set of LCA skids and some gussets can prevent this, but you still have the inherrent problem of you are trying to twist something that doesn't want to be twisted.


IMO the currie johnny joint is the best of all worlds here.
They have plenty of "flex" in them to handle even the most extreme suspensions, and they have a very good amount of NVH absorbtion.

not to mention they are rebuildable for very little. and the likelyhood of a housing or ball failing is next to none.
 
You guys aren't seeing that the axle side can be any bushing. It could be bolted solid with no misalignment and work because the heim or flex joint or whatever wizzbang joint allows the rotation in all axxis like rcp said at the frame side.

You may also notice that iron rock and others run bushings axle side and flex joint frame side. I think mainly because they're arms have substantial bends. The bushing on the axle side holds the bend in the position they want the bend to be in. Where a flex joint on both ends would allow gravity to droop the bend.
And just because it works has all the benefits of solid bushings pluss the added benefit off lots of Misalignment from frame side flex joints being able to rotate aswell as have lots of misalignment to follow axle.

Not to mention for tight asses like me lots of money is saved by running a non adjustable bushing welded in the axle ends. Instead of flex joints.

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This is a yearish on the 3link. Aswell a new found desire to do 45mph across the desert.
I think these are holding up well. Only gripe is they need greased fairly often to keep them quite.

I've cycled the crap out of this front end with no springs. You can grab the axle end if your tough and cycle it from full droop to full stuff.
No apparent bind visually or that can be felt.

More bind free travel then my 12" shocks allow
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Those look good and at 80 bucks they're priced about tge same as a heim. The bushing is alittle steep at 45. But does look nice.

These are consumables so I try not to spend a ton on them. Ive had good luck with plain old cheap heims

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My reasoning on choices, is that I do not wheel much. I worry about dirt ingress into the joints. IRO does sell a 'Jonny' joint or such for the install into the D30. I do have a set. Don't know what build they will go into.
Clearance Item IRO:

https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/product/xjtjzj-heavy-duty-adjustable-lower-control-arms-8901.html
 
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good arms for the money

I did go with Core Stage 1's on my 2" lift. VG for the $$$. The $$ and level of this build dictated that decision. Also, have JKS and RC. The JKS is VG. The RC's the upper control arm attachment to the axle is way to thin.
I posted the Scratch n Dent as that is very low. Not much more than Core Uppers. Also, less than some fixed.
 
I just purchased the IRO adjustable uppers and lowers for my 2000. I unfortunately didn't get that killer deal 75SV1 got, but I'll be happy nonetheless. I'm pairing this setup with my OME lift. I'm also going to be removing the 3rd leaf out of the rear leaf pack if these 2" "budget spacers" don't fit correctly with the shocks from the OME kit.
 
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