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Engine swap vs shop

Can you post a picture of the intake manifold?

Sounds like you have the newer intake although I thought that started in 2000 -- Did you have the 0331 head originally?
 
The 99 intake is the same as 00/01, it's the exhaust that different. On my 2000 I had to use a 0630 gasket with a 98 header to work with my 0630 head.
 
0630 head originally with 99 intake pictured here
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The 99 intake is the same as 00/01, it's the exhaust that different. On my 2000 I had to use a 0630 gasket with a 98 header to work with my 0630 head.
Or maybe no need to worry and just use the gasket that comes with the header?
So 99 intake + 7120 head + header = which gasket
 
Should be 93094 but it's a crap shoot -- is the exhaust the same on both engines?

On my 2000 I did a 98 grand engine which had the 7120 head and mated it to that intake and the 2000 cali emission exhaust manifold -- I had to use the adapter plate which meant that I made a gasket sandwich -- 94790 gasket against head/ adapter plate/ 93094 gasket/ then the exhaust and intake manifolds all bolted together -- I also used high temp sealant
 
Like copper permatex? I had been wondering if its worth it.
New sealed power brass freeze plugs in the mail. I have black rtf, but I've read of people using shellac. I'd either one better?
 
If you come by it let me know, spray vs brush on. My freeze plugs are in already with rtv. I still need the back two.

Bolting stuff back on the engine slowly as all the goods arrive in the mail. Still need to index the distributor, header/intake install. New plugs app895, new balancer on, broken bolts are out.

Anyone have any advice on reviewing the condition of my old block? Where to start?


Anyway progress is being made and shouldn't be long before I can install. I do need to pull the Transfer case and crack her open, but mostly it's a put bolts back Game now.
 
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Just need to rebuilt the mounts and she can go in. I kept the banks gasket actually because it was larger than all the other ports and ide read some don't line up well to after market exhaust.

I did find/use the copper permatex on both sides of the gasket and a coat directly on the block.

I have a new distributor otw as my 99 stock had up/down play, I don't know if that's bad or not, but this crap doesn't happen often and i wanna do this job right.

How do you guys start/tighten the E12 bolts with the trans pointing down, access won't be easy with the intake on, but damn one of those bolts are a pita to get at. Now the e12, I purchased standard hex flange headed bolts, I hope like he'll these thread in ok with the intake on

Much done, much to still do.
 
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Those E12 bolts will stick in the socket on the end of an extension and stay there -- the hex heads probably won't without some assistance

When I did mine those E12's where the 1st out and last in although I didn't tighten anything till all the bolts where started -- I stayed with the E12 and just stuck them on the tool with enough extensions to reach comfortably and hand threaded them in as far as they would go -- enough to know they're not cross threaded

Once tightened up make sure the torque converter spins freely -- should spin easily when not bolted to the flex plate -- this lets you know all is well and lined up properly

That engine is pretty
 
I think the E12s are really only a problem for those who are not prepared to encounter them. As long as you have the right tools and aren't trying to work with hardware that someone else buggered up using the wrong tools then you shouldn't have any more problems than would come with another style of fastener.
 
Getting the engine mounts rebuilt today, then I should be good to go on the install.

Any last words of advice from anyone?
-Thus far I'll make some guide pins for the block
- need to make sure the torque converter is seated fully ( I've spun it around a few times while pushing back on it, it's as far as it will go I believe.
- make sure torque converter spins freely once the engine is bolted up, before bolting up the flex plate to the torque converter

Anything else a complete newb won't know?
 
Are fuel injector O-rings supposed to be replaced every time you reinstall?

If you have them, or can source them quickly, then yes change them

I’ve done both and had no issues either way — they are easy enough to change out if there is an issue — no way I would let not having fresh injector O-rings hold up a project
 
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I turned it over 30 seconds twice with the fuel relay disconnected. I have a few questions. I didn't start for the following.

-Its flipping late, and she's straight piped, sounds great but I doubt neighbors agree this late.

How long should I need to prime the oil pump?

CEL is on, my guess is from, front clip still off, t case wiring disconnected, fuel relay disconnected???

F""kin thermostat gasket leaked. I didn't use Rtv this time because I read many don't need it., easy fix but I'm none to happy about it.
Ugh

Anyway happy to report the new battery still is kicking hard as it hasn't had much time in the jeep before it got shelfed for the project.

Up stream and down stream o2 connected, no plugs that I can see not plugged in, hope the CEL is of the listed possibllilities.
 
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How long should I need to prime the oil pump?

CEL is on, my guess is from, front clip still off, t case wiring disconnected, fuel relay disconnected???

F""kin thermostat gasket leaked. I didn't use Rtv this time because I read many don't need it., easy fix but I'm none to happy about it.
Ugh

Anyway happy to report the new battery still is kicking hard as it hasn't had much time in the jeep before it got shelfed for the project.

Up stream and down stream o2 connected, no plugs that I can see not plugged in, hope the CEL is of the listed possibllilities.
 
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