Toyota Front Axle swap w/ Dana 300

Re: Toyota Front @xle`qwap w/pDan` 300

tie Toyota 8" is a prettx,stout unit. The '84 and '85 housings have more substantial gusseting than the torlier models a|qo (if I remember correctly( thd%'79-'83 pinion flanges have a different bolt pattern than the later ones. Welding nn alo the necessary bracketry wnuld`fe `lot ef work (unless you went with leaf springs....gasp!). About the only thing that`iight really requird upvading, if you plan on running a front locker, are the birfield joints--------Hans

I have finished the ford 8.8 swap in the rear, and am now planning the front. I was wondering if anyone has ever done a toyota 8" swap? I know they are passenger drop but I was thinking of a Dana 300. Any ideas is this would work. I think from looking it would, except the exhaust pipe might need rerouting.

they are 55" wide so you would need to run wheel spacers and wheels with shallow back-spacing, and even then I doubt they are wide enough to fit the coils.

if you really want to do it, get a Diamond housing, then you can get it the right width and driver's drop.

A D300 doubler with 4.88 or 5.29 gears would go great with the Toy front axle. Address the width, and upgrade the birfields(sp?) and run it.

I'm in the same boat as you. I have a passenger side drop D60 that I want to run. Normally I would say that it's not worth the effort and it would be easier to find another axle, but the D300 with twinsticks would also be a nice upgrade.

But you will need this adapter for the AW4

http://www.novak-adapt.com/catalog/kit_153_aw4.htm

Do you know why toyota axles are so strong,

Because the 22re is crap for power and they are light weight rigs.
I bet if toyota used a d35 it would be "stong".

We have guys on 42in tires alloy shafts and longfields they survive for awhile but the pinnion and ring gears keep braking. housings bend easily near the knuckles if you jump it. turning radious sucks compared to a d30 or d44 especially with 2.5in BS rims.
D30 297 U-joitns are stronger then stock toyota Birfs. D30 is high pinnion.


I wouldent consider it.

MarcoXJ said:

I'm in the same boat as you. I have a passenger side drop D60 that I want to run. Normally I would say that it's not worth the effort and it would be easier to find another axle, but the D300 with twinsticks would also be a nice upgrade.

Click to expand...

Yep, this is exactly what I did.



Except that's with an NV4500 and NP231 doubler...but expect to do a bit of cutting on the inside to fit it, if you want it clocked relatively flat and high.

One small advantage to running a passenger drop is it leaves a nice opening on the driver's side to run an upper arm for a 3-link w/panhard, if one were so inclined.

I wouldnt even consider it.Im on my 3rd week of a solid axle conversion on my sons 4Runner(Toyota to Toyota).Im in 3k$ right now and have a caster angle of 10* and a driveshaft angle of 25*.With the leaf springs/and a "true"high-steer it cant be shimmed!

ashmanjeepxj said:

Do you know why toyota axles are so strong,

Because the 22re is crap for power and they are light weight rigs.
I bet if toyota used a d35 it would be "stong".

Click to expand...

I think this is a bunk arguement. the 22re has a lot less power, but most Toyota guys are running 4x the gearing we are. also, lots of Toy guys swap Toyota V6s, Chevy 4.3s, or Chevy SBCs and keep the Toyota axles, with few problems. the 30 spline birfs/shafts are cheaper and stronger than good shafts/joints for a D44 (tested equally with Bobby Long's machine).

I would love to swap a Toy front in my MJ, but I would only do it if I could do it right; diamond housing, 30spline birfs/shafts, hub pin mod, high-steer, and HP third. With an XJ at 4000 lbs, stockish 4.0, AW4, 4:1 tcase, and 37s, I think that axle would be near bullet-proof.

There is a Legends class rig running an axle basically like I described above with 37" stickies, V6, lots of gearing, etc. They've been doing very well with it, front digs and all, and the weak point was the T-case output until they upgraded it and since have had no failures.

well i am running 4.56s right now for my 32s which will get no bigger than 33s down the road, so tires size isnt an issue (and I could run the d30 but I want a front locker and I really dont want to put any serious coin into it) so that leads me to a custom front, so welding spring perches etc is not an issue for the argument, neither is the birfield upgrades, cause I would do the longfield upgrates if i am remember it right.. the ones they tested in the new JP article that outlasted Dana 60s shafts. I wasent sure that you could get aftermarket toyota housings but I defently want a front axle that is not cast. I hate cast and I dont like welding to cast so a 44 is out cause I want a truss but again hate welding cast. So its a ford 9 or a Toyota by choice. Also I think a dana 300 would be cool, and I could flip it or get a hosing thats passenger drop, best of both worlds. anyhoo, time to look into things more deeper,

question is, looking at the diamond website they list totoya housings for Toyota 4cyl/V6, Hi-pinion/low pinion, and T100/Tundra/"8.4" - 30 or 35 spline
It would seem the 30 or 35 spline would be the way to go, but what are the specs on the 4cyl/V6?
thanks for the ideas.

Diamond Axle (http://www.diamondaxle.com/index.htm) makes a variety of Toy 8" and Ford 9" housings with all different hybrid options. Currie also makes a lot of 9" hybrids with 44 or 60 outers.

I am pretty set on doing toy axles front and rear. 30spline 300M stuff in the front and 300m in the rear. 5:1 atlass with stock 4.10 gears with diamond housings. my rig is very light and getting lighter.

I wont be running over 37s on this setup though... and I am way lighter than most yall ever will be.

RCP Phx said:

I wouldnt even consider it.Im on my 3rd week of a solid axle conversion on my sons 4Runner(Toyota to Toyota).Im in 3k$ right now and have a caster angle of 10* and a driveshaft angle of 25*.With the leaf springs/and a "true"high-steer it cant be shimmed!

Click to expand...

It isn't that hard to cut and turn the knuckles and it's a very common practice. Also, another Toyota axle worth looking at would be an FJ80 Landcruiser front axle.....much wider (don't know the actual width, though) than the p/u's huge birfields and available with a factory e-locker in a high pinion third member. The tie rods run behind the axle, which could be advantages if you can make it work. Just a thought--------Hans

(sorry for the semi-hijack) If you ran the Dana300, aside from the exhaust reroute, what is the complications from getting it to function with the rest of the system (motor etc.) I'm an idiot most of the time, so please go easy =). I am constantly impressed with built toyota axles. Also, they are CHEAP as HELL (compared to equivilants)