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'86 2.5 TBI, stumbles/dies at idle, very rich, failed emissions...

CameronB

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Tacoma, WA
It has been running rich since I bought it, black soot in tail pipe, and exhaust burns your eyes (back is chopped, gasses draft up to cab...)
Well, it slowly began stumbling at cold start idle a while ago, and now simply will not idle at all when cold, without your foot on the gas. Once warm, it idles fine, and will start right up and idle OK.

Also, emissions failed as follows:
Idle HC= 323ppm (limit-220) Fail
Idle CO= 2.52ppm (limit-1.2) Fail
Idle CO+CO2= 12.92%
Idle 02= 4.64%

Cruise HC= 99ppm (limit-150) Pass
Cruise CO= 2.27ppm (limit-1.0) Fail
Cruise CO+CO2= 15.67%
Cruise 02= .99%

What I've found:
Exhaust leak somewhere on manifold under heat-shield. Can't see it, but it's heard, and deposits soot on the old heat-riser tube attachment (which is gone, and is fitted with a '95 airbox.)
Removed and cleaned 02 sensor, tried testing with multimeter, but having trouble doing so- mixed results.
Removed EGR, which is failed- stuck closed. Leaky diaghram.
Replaced all vacuum hoses and vent hose to fuel tank.
New fuel filter.
New brass cap/rotor, new magnecore wires/autolite plugs- all from Nick (Kolak Jeep Performance.)
I believe cat is stock unit, unsure of it's condition. Glasspack behind it.
Timing is correct, about 12btdc.

Map sensor is connected OK, new vac hose, and I believe the water temp sensor for the ECU is the one mounted to the intake manifold, on the drivers side, cylinder #4; it has two wires. The other one is on the block above the intake manifold, above cyl #4, tapped vertically, is a smaller tap, and has only one wire. I think that one is for the dummy light. BTW, I removed and cleaned it, and the top part where the wire goes in is very loose- can't be right. The tapped portion is basically a plug with a sensor tip on it.

If it matters, my infrared temp gun says the exh manifold is around 450* when warm.
 
Cleaning an O2 is not a good idea, but the O2 is your most likely problem. Definately get the EGR functional as well. Check the line from the TB to the MAP.
 
I took a wire brush to the o2 sersor, that's all. I've got to figure out if it's working right with the multimeter- it's covered in the Chiltons.

The line to the MAP is new, and fine. I was thinking of capping of the egr for now, since it's off, and see how it does. I've heard of it being done.
 
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