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Help with a WHOLE bunch of stuff on a new 1999 Sport.

bmwe30nut

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Allentown, PA
I'm back...signed up in 2011 to fix up a '95 Sport...it lasted through 2 daughters before it was wrecked (bad road conditions, a new driver, a lot of rear end torque caused the wreck...but it protected my Daughter well...).


Replaced it with a '97 Grand (also the 6 cyl)...lasted several years also (unfortunately, once we sold it to my Daughter's boyfriend, I don't think he changed the oil...and the engine died...)


I was looking though some ads and found someone that wanted a trade on a '99 Sport (6 cyl, Auto Trans, 169K miles) and my Daughter was very interested, so we got it. Gold color, 3" Rough Country lift (she's wanted a lifted Cherokee forever), 31" tires.



It's home now (had to get it towed...went for a test drive the week before with no issues, but the battery was dead when we picked it up and it still wouldn't catch (cranked OK) after jumping and charging it).


It was cheap (sub $800 even with the title transfer)...so it needs work. I'm sore today from working on it yesterday (getting old sucks), but the Daughter wants it on the road....but it still needs a bunch of stuff (some minor, some major), so I can use some advice on any of the things....


In theory, it's my Daughter buying the parts and I'm HELPING her with the work, so I'm trying to find the most cost effective way to get it done.



Major:
Battery loses charge quickly (fresh charge cranks it fine, start it, let it sit for an hour and it barely cranks it over). The battery has a 2015 sticker on it...so I'm replacing it (Interstate Blem for $45 tomorrow). I'm thinking it's likely just the battery (very unlikely anything discharge the battery that quickly, and it reads 13.5V when it's running (and headlights on), so the alternator should be putting out enough power. Anything else I should check?



Trans...only once so far for us (but the previous owner said it did it to him) the AW4 would shudder rather than downshifting from 4th (my daughter relates that she was 'coasting' at interstate speeds, and went to give it gas, but it shuddered rather than downshifting. Is it likely a solenoid in the trans? (Not sure when the trans fluid was last changed, so I have a filter/gasket coming, and I'll probably swap the fluids a couple of times to clear out the old stuff). Any thoughts on this?


Minor:
Rusted through bottom driver's door. Replace the door (and paint to match), or find someone that can weld in the skins? (not sure which is more economical)?


Rust on the rocker on the passenger front (not through the metal yet)...same thing...try to kill the rust with POR 15 and cover, or cut/weld?


There was a rusted through spot (small) on the driver's footwell...but the prior owner put aluminum sheet over it (did a pretty good repair...not pretty, but done well)...might want to cosmetic it up a bit...but overall, those 3 areas are pretty much all the major rust.



Driver's window motor doesn't work (cleaned the switches, and it's getting voltage now but not running (won't be the first window regulator I've done)). Not sure if it's better to have her wait to see if the door is to be welded or just replace it now.


The wiring had some broken areas (at the driver's door hinge part)...I had my daughter fix them...but there's 2 unknown wires (don't match at the door end) coming from the body portion of the vehicle...one brown (and one I can't remember...I'll edit later/tomorrow with that color)...is there a wiring diagram with colors (the door has power mirrors/locks/windows)? I can't seem to find a full replacement (used or new) for that wiring harness (I assume I need:
56009824AE as the correct part number)?


The Driver's door controls won't LOCK the power locks...tried cleaning the interior of the switch (unlocks fine, but no response on the lock function)..it made the mirrors work better, the other power windows, etc. I'm pretty sure the front passenger door doesn't lock either (but will unlock all the locks)...not sure if it has to do with the unknown wires above, or something in the switch(s) or somewhere else?


Valve cover gasket leak (done those before).



Very tiny coolant leak...you can smell it at the front of the engine (not sure if it's the thermostat/gasket/housing (already ordered), or water pump). I put dye in the coolant to see if I can pinpoint it...but there's no major visible leaks/puddles...and the radiator/overflow tank doesn't seem to be going down at any visible rate.


Parts here/coming: Elbows/grommets for the Valve cover and the Valve Cover gasket. Spark Plugs. Mopar Crank Sensor. Trans filter/gasket. Thermostat housing/thermostat/gasket.





Repairs so far (over the last week):


Because of the dead battery and the hard start even after jumping, I tested the Crank Position sensor (showed infinite resistance)....however, I bought both a Mopar and a Standard Motor Products unit. The Mopar won't be in until later this week, so I swapped the Standard unit in to see if it helped (aside from the battery power being weak, the Standard unit seemed to get it to start easier/run better)...The Mopar part will go in once it gets here (and we'll keep the Standard as a backup).



Evap code (didn't pop up for me) reported by the prior owner...checked things out and the elbow at the intake was dry-rotted enough that the hose was loose...replaced with silicone hose....then, followed everything, and where the hard line (from the gas tank...that's rusted, but not through) goes to the charcoal canister the rubber connector was torn through (also replaced with silicone hose).


Rear hatch hard to work (pulled the panel, adjusted the connector, works fine now).


Rear driver's door stuck...got it loose (rusted at the mechanism, now freed up and lubed well)....waiting on some plastic body pins as all of them are pretty much gone to reinstall the panel.



Driver's door hinge pins bad (door sagged), replaced them...door shuts and opens well (just wish it didn't have that rust).




Any thoughts on major/minor stuff above or even any other suggestions, etc would be greatly appreciated. My Daughter is excited about this, and really wants to get it inspected and on the road and keep it for as long as possible.
 
Likely a failing battery. Inspect the connectors and cables for corrosion, clean and snug all the ground cables.

Change the trans fluid, use Dexron-III/Mercon and NOT ATF+4. Test the solenoids, and inspect the wire plugs for corrosion or bent/pushed back wire pins.

The only cure for rust is to remove it and replace with fresh metal. POR-15 can only slow it down, and rust "converters" are a waste of time and money.

Failed drivers door master switch assemblies are common, as are broken or damaged wire in the drivers door and the tailgate. Continuity test and visually inspect the wire harness and wire plugs.


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Looks like you got your work cut out for you.
The easiest thing to fix would be the battery issue.

First make sure the alternator is charging the battery properly.
With engine running, the voltage across the battery posts (not clamps) should be anywhere between 13.8 to 14.8 Volts DC.

If thats good do as Tim_MN suggested and verify the battery terminals/cables are not loose and/or corroded and check the grounds to the engine and chassis.

If that checks out good, its a trip to the local auto store to get the battery load tested.

If that checks out good, there's likely a parasitic draw discharging the battery over night.
 
Slight update...my daughter took the car to get inspected yesterday. The battery barely started the car after being on the trickle charger overnight...(she started it an hour before she was leaving to check all the lights, etc.). Then it wouldn't start it later on.


So, she pulled the battery from the Wrangler and got it to start fine (just a tiny bit hard, but then caught and ran fine).



Drove it to get inspected...but they couldn't do it...the OBD reset (we have emissions here) with the battery swap, so she needs to drive it a bit more.


I ordered a replacement switch for the driver's door.



Have the battery in the car now (Interstate has blems for $45 at the distributor near me, so it's just getting changed out regardless).


I'm going to swap the trans fluid (knew the Dex/Merc from searches on here)...drain the pain, fill...drive, drain the pan, fill...drive, etc...then pull the pan, change the filter, test the solenoids...then it should be 90%+ fresh fluid.


Any way to test the solenoids from outside trans (without a big/expensive machine)?...that way I can have replacements on hand when I pull the pan to do the filter?
 
Slight update...

Started fine over the last 2 days with the borrowed battery. I'm guessing the computer is very voltage sensitive.

Daughter got emissions and inspection done this evening...threw an O2 sensor code...she cleared it, drove 50 miles, then went in for the inspection (I'll swap an O2 sensor in down the road).

New battery installed tonight...

Found the very tiny coolant leak...the heater hose that attaches to the top of the water pump...the dye worked nice for that...I'll probably do the water pump in addition to the thermostat....any suggestions as to brands?
 
Thanks for the Gates suggestion. From looking at a few things, looks like I should probably replace the tube instead of screwing with it (corroded?).


More to do...weather permitting (no room in the garage).
 
An alternative to the tube is to use something like this:

https://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.php?p=246679042#post246679042

It is pipe thread and believe it to be 3/8". Most guys use the barbed ones but I read one post to not do that and use a smooth one like at that link. I am thinking either way will be fine. But you will have to replace that hose cause now it needs to be longer.

All that being said I went with the original set up and bought a new black tube. With a Napa water pump which is just a rebranded Gates.
 
For $ 14, a new metal water pump inlet tube is a no-brainer. Got the tube and a water pump from NAPA a couple months ago.
 
Oh and no matter which way you do go with the tube don't forget the thread sealant.
I debated on whether to use thread sealant or teflon tape.
Guessing researched it and probably asked on one of the forums.
Cause I have a bad habit of overthinking everything.
For whatever reason I came up with, which I can't remember why, I went with the thread sealant.
Which I had to buy but had teflon tape in "stock". LOL.
 
As the other guys covered most of it, Ill chime in with POR 15 is the biggest waste of money Ive seen. Rusteoleum does just as good of a job at a fraction of the cost. But cut it out and replace it, then the rust is gone.

As for the door, used ones are a dime a dozen and youre close to Harrys u pull it, go grab a better one, skins are thin and are a pain to weld on.
 
As the other guys covered most of it, Ill chime in with POR 15 is the biggest waste of money Ive seen. Rusteoleum does just as good of a job at a fraction of the cost. But cut it out and replace it, then the rust is gone.

As for the door, used ones are a dime a dozen and youre close to Harrys u pull it, go grab a better one, skins are thin and are a pain to weld on.


Thanks for the info...Shouldn't be too hard to repaint one. I assume that the ones (97 and up?) with the Torx bolts holding the door to the hinge will work?
 
Thanks for the info...Shouldn't be too hard to repaint one. I assume that the ones (97 and up?) with the Torx bolts holding the door to the hinge will work?

Yepp, any 97-01 will work, bonus if you get one that already has power windows and locks like yours, bonus bonus if you get one with a working window switch
 
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