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Idler Pulley Keeps Going.....

X

X9x A T I x7X

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Pennsylvania, New York, Delaware
1994 Jeep Cherokee Sport 4.0L I6 HO


I got my Jeep for free over the summer because it needed almost as much money put into it as it was worth. After fixing everything that needed to be fixed, it was running fine for about 2 weeks, until the idler pulley started squealing and about 2 days later, the bearing blew to pieces. I replaced it that day and it ran without any problems or squeals for about a week, when the squealing started again, eventually seizing up. I replaced it, leaving it again, running fine for about 2 weeks (I drove about 50 miles in that time.) I now have the same squeal. Can anybody tell me why I keep blowing through idler pulleys? My cousin had the same problem with his 89 pioneer, but not as severe.
 
Hallo X9.................... I have the same problem with Idler Pulleys.
I found out that the right tension is very important. There is a lot of overload on the bearing ,when the tension is too high.
IMO the best way to do a right tension is , to adjust the belt, which you can push it on the belt itself or to turn the belt vertical. see pics the way I do it now.
The first Pulley I renewed was from Crown and had a dry bearing,
Now I renew the bearings myself. Don't overtight, it will squeel in the beginning. After a few miles the sound is gone.

2 pics: click please.




'92 XJ
 
Last edited:
When I did my h2o pump I took off my pulley to lube up the adjuster and I didn't notice when the spacer fell off an rolled under the car. When I tighted it up w/o the spacer the bearing got mashed. An automatic belt tensioner would have been a nice touch on these motors as they are fuss ass to get right.
 
get yourself a Krikit II v-belt tension guage from Napa, they are definitely worth the money

A new belt should have 180 lbs of tension, a used belt (15+ mins of use) should have 170 lbs

Idler pulley bolt should be torqued to 35 lb/ft.
 
The Aux fan mounting is two tabs at bottom, two bolts at top, one electric connector. Disconnect electric, pull bolts, tilt a bit and lift up and out for better access. Reverse back in.

BUT be extra careful of radiator fins-Delicate!

-o-
 
wim hoppenbrouwers said:
Hallo. The pressure to the belt is giving by the adjustment of the steeringpump.
The bolt of the Idler pulley is only the attachment of the pulley.
Or are you talking about an other pulley? LOL
Click to expand...

You stated that the idler pulley bolt should be torqued to 35 ft/lbs. That would be the bolt holding the idler pulley on, not? I have about and inch and a half of clearance between the idler pulley and fan while my torque wrench is about 2 inches w/o a socket on it.
 
Relax on the torque wrench. Just tighten it up by feel. Certain bolts really need to be torqued carefully, like bearings and heads, but idler pulleys don't really matter as long as you don't break them off or they don't slip loose. If you use a normal length wrench (like a 6-7" handle), and snug it down so that it feels secure, it will be good. Just don't go crazy and break it off.
 
winterbeater said:
Relax on the torque wrench. Just tighten it up by feel. Certain bolts really need to be torqued carefully, like bearings and heads, but idler pulleys don't really matter as long as you don't break them off or they don't slip loose. If you use a normal length wrench (like a 6-7" handle), and snug it down so that it feels secure, it will be good. Just don't go crazy and break it off.
Click to expand...

The idler pulleys are breaking though. The bearing are blowing apart like popcorn in a microwave.
 
Unless you are really reefing down on the idler pulley bolt, that torque is not critical. Put some blue loctite on it and just snug it down good. The belt tension is more of a critical factor. Is the bearing greased? After you tighten up the bearing shaft bolt, does it still spin freely?
 
winterbeater said:
Unless you are really reefing down on the idler pulley bolt, that torque is not critical. Put some blue loctite on it and just snug it down good. The belt tension is more of a critical factor. Is the bearing greased? After you tighten up the bearing shaft bolt, does it still spin freely?
Click to expand...

Unless I dont know my own strength, then i'm not putting an abnormal amount of tension on the bolt as i'm tightening it. The bearing was greased with motor oil before it was put on and spun like a brand new bearing should. Now it wobbles and will soon break.
 
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