Best 4.5" Lift Ride Quality

[Anak]

Fuel economy is relative.

AFAIAC my XJ is an economy vehicle. Sure beats the mileage of my 7.4 and 8.1L Suburbans.

[Tim_MN]

XJ: Long ago paid for. Cheap to buy, cheap to insure, cheap to fix. Rugged, reliable, laughs at any amount of snow. I was at the junkyard Saturday, one 88, one 98, two 99's and a 00.

One month of gas is less than one car payment.

[75SV1]

I just came back from a road trip. 600 miles to PA. Then running up to Hazleton to the PnP, to New Ringold, to another PnP etc. My mom looked at the Xj and said where's the Volt. Meaning MGP vs Gap prices. I can't take trash in the Volt. Then to WV, than back to IN. About 17 to 18 MPG. Then when home, I was talking to my neighbor. Basically, his GM Arcadia gets the same.
The XJ is a good platform. Very balanced, decent performance, reliability, and repairable. Look around at what cars are still out there from the 80's and 90's. Still, more than a few XJs. Still a few MJs, too. I used to see some older W123 MBs and other MBs. The past 5 years, I only see a few. My 204D gets some looks now.

Also, with a 4.5" lift, you will need to do a SYE, or Hack-n-Tap, or the washers to tilt the trans, for driveshaft vibes. I'd also, replace the steering box spacer with a metal one. At least a low budget steering box brace. I'll look at Kevin's Offroad for some upgrades to prevent Death Wobble. Also, look at the "Cure' from (???). If your going RE for a lift, then I'd look at their Track Bar brace, too. Some simple stuff to firm up the steering.

[Mudshack]

Yes. Fuel economy is relative. I had a 2012 Tundra that got 11-13mpg. I now have a 2021 F150 on 35's getting 17-18mpg. So having a XJ get 15-16mpg is good and anything more would exceed my expectations. This isn't about MPGs. This is about a 19yo wanting to take his late grandfather's XJ and give it a little lift and be able to drive it around while at school in Denver. I (the dad in this situation) wants the XJ to be safe enough for my son to drive back and forth from Montana to Denver a few times per year. I prefer to not have the XJ so stiff that it hops around going over every bridge. That is not fun in the winter.

The Rubicon Express 3.5" Super-Ride lift kit seems to be sold out everywhere. Now I am trying to find an alternative lift kit. I am open to adding to a kit (i.e. LCA drop brackets, shocks, etc).

[maxbraketorque]

One challenge you'll have is that virtually all lifted leaf springs are overly stiff. I surveyed spring rates before purchasing, and most were quoted by the manufacturer to be north of 200 lbs/in, and stock is around 160 lbs/in. I had to remove a leaf from mine to soften up the rear. Shocks may be another challenge. I've only tried two different shocks, and while my Rough Country N3s are better than what was on it before, they are not as smooth as I would like on square-edged bumps.

A lot of people like to bag Rough Country, but I think a lot of their stuff is pretty decent. I'd rate it better than most Rubicon Express. I suggest the Rough Country 3" short arm with new leaf springs rather than the add-a-leaf. You'll most likely have to remove a leaf to get the rear soft enough. You could compensate for the slightly greater sag using an extended shackle.

If you plan on going with aftermarket wheels, the by-far most common 15" wheel is a 15x8 with 3.75" backspace. If you run 31" tires on these rims with a 3" lift on stock fenders, there may be occasional rubbing when the front wheels are turned. 4.5" backspace on an 8" wide rim is much better. In my opinion 4.5" BS will look better too. 3.75" BS sticks the wheels pretty far out past the fenders.

[75SV1]

Maybe a bit out of your budget, if with the 3.5" full pack and some other upgrades:
https://www.ironrockoffroad.com/prod...-lift-kit.html

It get good reviews. I was looking at the rear spring for this on a planned lift of 3.5". I went with OME rear spring. It cost a bit more. I used DPG Offroad for OME stuff.

https://dpgoffroad.com/old-man-emu-ome-hybrids/

[Mudshack]

Originally Posted by maxbraketorque

One challenge you'll have is that virtually all lifted leaf springs are overly stiff. I surveyed spring rates before purchasing, and most were quoted by the manufacturer to be north of 200 lbs/in, and stock is around 160 lbs/in. I had to remove a leaf from mine to soften up the rear. Shocks may be another challenge. I've only tried two different shocks, and while my Rough Country N3s are better than what was on it before, they are not as smooth as I would like on square-edged bumps.

A lot of people like to bag Rough Country, but I think a lot of their stuff is pretty decent. I'd rate it better than most Rubicon Express. I suggest the Rough Country 3" short arm with new leaf springs rather than the add-a-leaf. You'll most likely have to remove a leaf to get the rear soft enough. You could compensate for the slightly greater sag using an extended shackle.

If you plan on going with aftermarket wheels, the by-far most common 15" wheel is a 15x8 with 3.75" backspace. If you run 31" tires on these rims with a 3" lift on stock fenders, there may be occasional rubbing when the front wheels are turned. 4.5" backspace on an 8" wide rim is much better. In my opinion 4.5" BS will look better too. 3.75" BS sticks the wheels pretty far out past the fenders.

I just ordered the Rubicon Express 3.5" Super Ride with rear leaf springs. I ordered it withOUT shocks. I ordered Fox 2.0 shocks instead for all 4 corners. I will probably end up ordering a control arm drop kit before the intall.

[Evan03]

The fox shocks are good but might be alittle firm on the street with short arms.

Id of opted for srb and crown HD leaf packs. Tune the leafs to sit how you want compared to the front

It may turn out well and the fox shocks on the street should give a more precise handling. Maybe just alittle firm.

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[75SV1]

One aspect is dual rate springs. The OME rear spring is a dual rate spring. I think Chevy has the same type in their Pickups. Also, dual rates for the front. Metal Cloak or or Currie Rock Jocks. A bit late with the info though.

[Evan03]

Not sure the fronts are actually dual rate since the coils are in coil bind at ride height. Theyre purpose is to keep spring from falling out at full extension.

The metal cloak springs appear to be the same as Rock krawler springs aswell as springs wild horse sells for fords.

Suposebly a very good riding spring in the bronco world. Definitely worth a try if these are all by the same maker.

I could be wrong as the picture sujest 3 rstes. Would be cool if they are true dual rate

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[75SV1]

Hadn't seen the Rock Krawlers. Look good.
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9133F...-in.-Lift-Pair
Sort of looking at the Rock Jocks. I do have a set of 3.5 Metal Clocks, new but not installed.
Going with a 5.5 lift or at least a 4.5. Doing Ironman 4x4 Long Arms front and rear. So, stock WJ rear springs are 4.5 for the rear.
Also, I think some used front springs out of Ford T-birds, 80s-90s era. They are suppose to be progressive. The guy from Metal Cloak did a post years ago on progressive vs dual rate. etc.

Also, added this to my 2" lift:
https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store..._Kit%21.html#/

[75SV1]

Originally Posted by 75SV1

Hadn't seen the Rock Krawlers. Look good.
https://www.rockjock4x4.com/CE-9133F...-in.-Lift-Pair
Sort of looking at the Rock Jocks. I do have a set of 3.5 Metal Clocks, new but not installed.
Going with a 5.5 lift or at least a 4.5. Doing Ironman 4x4 Long Arms front and rear. So, stock WJ rear springs are 4.5 for the rear.
Also, I think some used front springs out of Ford T-birds, 80s-90s era. They are suppose to be progressive. The guy from Metal Cloak did a post years ago on progressive vs dual rate. etc.

Also, added this to my 2" lift:
https://www.ksuspensionfab.com/store..._Kit%21.html#/

Edit:
Here is the thread on DR vs Progressive:
https://www.jeepforum.com/threads/pr...coils.1525925/
A lot of reading etc.

[Evan03]

The the top rate is topped out and to me the two ride rates together are a single softer rate. Unless the one rate goes into coil bind then the two ride rates are as one.

Coil bind coil bind then its on the last firmer right right as the over the counter shock clanks metal to metal.

This is the same as two different rates on coilover together they creat a single rate then the dual slider. Is set for 2" or whatever where it elimnates the upper spring bringing in the firmer rate of the lower.

Im sure im all confused but I cant grasp true dual rate springs in a single spring. Coil bind has to factor in to make it work.
I mostly think it doesnt and is Marketing.


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[SlowXj]

You're on the right trail amino. I run cloaks and the upper spring rate is only a "spring tender" it doesn't effect the spring rate at all on the road... now I assume it's possible since at full drop its still fully contained and adding a small amount of push its helping to force the wheel into traction, but I assume it is a negligible amount.

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[ShoeterMcgav]

Originally Posted by Mudshack

I appreciate the suggestion. He has helped me wrench on many vehicles. We are not physically able to do it right now and I honestly dread the thoughts of breaking off rusty bolts and heading down rabbit trails. We have a reputable off-road shop here in Billings and they will be the first I will every pay to do this and I have been doing this for 22yrs. No shame on my part.

Then your budget is bonkers... gonna pay 1300 just to install a standard 3.5" -4.5" lift