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Lower track bar mount issues

Joshua13

NAXJA Forum User
Location
BC Canada
So my 2000 with 3" lift has an issue with hole for the track bar being ovaled. I brought it to a shop for an alingment after installing an UTK kit from JRC and they noticed the hole. they welded a washer on to fix it but now it sticks so far out that the head of the bolt now hits my 1ton UTK steering linkage.

I am thinking of getting the stinky fab mount and just swapping it out. But i have 2 questions.
1) is this the best solution?
2) what is the deal of track bar lowering kits for the axel side? Wouldn't that just make any issues worse? Wouldnt you want to raise it on the axel side? Since i have to fix this side should i be doing this?

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How much is it hitting. Can you Touch the head of the bolt and steering link with a flap disc on a grinder to make enough clearance?

Is drag link and track bar geometry correct? Id verify before changing any hard mounts

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Your CA length may be pushing the axle to far forward.
 
So my 2000 with 3" lift has an issue with hole for the track bar being ovaled. I brought it to a shop for an alingment after installing an UTK kit from JRC and they noticed the hole. they welded a washer on to fix it but now it sticks so far out that the head of the bolt now hits my 1ton UTK steering linkage.

I am thinking of getting the stinky fab mount and just swapping it out. But i have 2 questions.
1) is this the best solution?
2) what is the deal of track bar lowering kits for the axel side? Wouldn't that just make any issues worse? Wouldnt you want to raise it on the axel side? Since i have to fix this side should i be doing this?

Sent from my SM-A326W using Tapatalk

I had the same problem and used one of the Kevins Offroad kits. It cured my death wobble. The kit uses a large diameter bolt, so you just drill the ovaled to the correct size and install new hardware.
https://kevinsoffroad.com/collectio...bar-bushings-plus-upgraded-track-bar-hardware
 
How much is it hitting. Can you Touch the head of the bolt and steering link with a flap disc on a grinder to make enough clearance?

Is drag link and track bar geometry correct? Id verify before changing any hard mounts

Sent from my SM-G781U using Tapatalk
Its too much to just grind a bit off. I assume the geometry is good, but considering this issue was when they did they alignment...
Drives fine on hwy. No issues

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See pictures below
2b55faec371083914c4a86465a5fca74.jpg
c99895be39fdf74a6398ad832536a90a.jpg


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That welded on piece and the washer make it to tall.
 
I have some questions. From you description and pictures, I'd guess you are running some type of crossover steering. Using the 'standard' type trackbar. The crossover steering un under (UTK) and not over (OTK). Also, what type of ends on the steering links?
OK, I do run UTK cross over steering on both of my XJs. Both have OTK trackbars. One is Rusty's and the other is Stinky's. The Rusty's is OK. The Stinky's way over built. I like it that way. I do have his trackbar brace too. Both are WJ Big brake setup, also Ruff Stuff Chevy 1-ton.
One of the solutions if running Chevy 1-ton TREs is that they make an offset ones. I'd have to check if I had to use one or two on my setup.
 
I have some questions. From you description and pictures, I'd guess you are running some type of crossover steering. Using the 'standard' type trackbar. The crossover steering un under (UTK) and not over (OTK). Also, what type of ends on the steering links?

OK, I do run UTK cross over steering on both of my XJs. Both have OTK trackbars. One is Rusty's and the other is Stinky's. The Rusty's is OK. The Stinky's way over built. I like it that way. I do have his trackbar brace too. Both are WJ Big brake setup, also Ruff Stuff Chevy 1-ton.

One of the solutions if running Chevy 1-ton TREs is that they make an offset ones. I'd have to check if I had to use one or two on my setup.
Kit is a JCR under the knuckle. Im not sure what their TREs are out of, i just have a napa part number.

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Kit is a JCR under the knuckle. Im not sure what their TREs are out of, i just have a napa part number.

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I looked at the JRC website. They look different than the Chevy 1-ton TREs. Did you have to ream the taper bigger on the knuckles?
 
I looked at the JRC website. They look different than the Chevy 1-ton TREs. Did you have to ream the taper bigger on the knuckles?
Yup i sure did. And the napa one as well. If you buy the tre's from jrc they do it for you but. Im up in canada and they cost way too much +shipping

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the TRE I was talking about is ES23434R or L :
https://www.ebay.com/itm/255261462472

I don't think it will work for you if you are using the JCR 'Y' link setup. I don't know if you used on on the driver's side, if it would give you enough clearance. That long of a distance, I think not.
 
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