242 TC rear seal problem

My rear output shaft seal on my T.W. SYE'd 242 TC finally blew-out on Friday. Been a s-l-o-w leak for last several months, then uke:
So I talk to Tom Wood and he says to use Permatex #1 on both seals (40mm x 65mm x 8mm) and let it set-up. I found a set of CR seals and proceded to R&R old stuff, gave it 36 hours to set-up and loaded the XJ for Camp Jeep. Got 10 miles down the road, stopped for gas....I've got smoke coming from under Jeep. Squirtin' like a stuck pig ig: all over the catalyst!
Luckily, I bought 4 seals and had two left. My friend at DC looked it over to see if I messed it up, he thinks that the seals go in too easy O.D. is undersized) and that is why they are spinning inside speedo housing. We used red "Threadlock" Permatex to seal and "secure" the OD of the bearing to the housing. He also tried to dimple the I.D. of the speedo housing to see if that would keep the seals from backing out of the nosecone and flingin' oil everwhere
Does anyone else have a repair tip incase this doesn't work? I'm still typing this in Detroit, when were supposed to be in Virginia right now! :dunno:
Thanks,
BLUTO

Haven´t done the tail cone of a 242, but have stuck a few spun bearings in with Loc Tite metal mender, bearings are still in there and haven´t spun again. Even removed a bearing that had been metal mendered in there, cleaned off the epoxy with a sharp exacto knife (and some aceton) and put another bearing in. Permatex also makes, a two part epoxy, for intake manifolds (for aluminum) that works well and sets up fast. Only problem is, things have to be oil free, can of spray brake cleaner helps.
If the play is excessive, you can try centering the seal with a couple of pieces of a cheap feeler gauge set. Cut the feeler gauge into three little wedges (with a pair of side cutters) and tap them in there (after applying glue/work fast).
Sounds like your bushing may have a bit too much play=too much shaft play.

Something else that popped into the old mind. Check the end of the vent hose for mud and/or a kinked vent hose or possibly one that was tied up and the zip tie tightened a bit to much (yes I did that). When the case heats up and starts building preesure, nothing short of a good vent is gonna relieve the pressure, seal sure isn´t going to hold it.

Thanks for the advice. I will also check the vent hose before taking off. I haven't ever had it in any deep mud (yet :laugh3: ), but you never know.
Thanks,
BLUTO

same problem here,

Tom Wood is sending me a new tail cone with the seals already installed, this will be my third set in about a year, if you get it figured out post your fix, I'm sure this third set wont last any longer than the last two.



(I shoulda left it all stock)

I talked to T.W. yesterday, I'm in VA. for C.J. :wave1: . He is sending me a "spare" tailpiece too.
BTW, we fixed (for 800 miles so far) the leak using new 65mm x 40mm x 8mm CR seals set in place with Permatex red Threadlocker.....high strength and good for 300*F. Put some "dimples" into the face of the tailpiece to help hold the seal in.....not the best engineering fix. I also found a vent on the 242 TC that wasn't working; it was probably building up pressure and blowing-out the seals.While I'm at C.J., I will bring this up at the Engineering roundtables. Maybe someone can refer us to a better seal. I also work at DCX Auburn Hills Tech Center, as a Pipefitter.
I'll report after C.J. what we come up with.
All-in-all, I still have lots of respect for TW as a businessman, he's never tried to lay-off any blame on anyone else AND is willing to stand behind his work ...... therefore, I'm willing to work with him to help fix this "fixable" problem.
BLUTO

Mine has just started to seep a little - nothing major. I think that I overfilled the t-case case last change.....didn't leave it 1/2" below the upper fill hole, just filled it to the hole. Probably a bit too much pressure has forced the oil out of the seal. Hopefully this will be self-correcting as there really hasn't been much loss so far: just a couple of drips in the driveway. Appreciate the heads up re the potential issue and look forward to the "best" suggested fix for the future.

By the way, I've got the 231 tail-cone on the 242, per TW's initial advice.

As a follow-up to my earlier report on the 242 output shaft leak.... I talked to T.W. and some bearing/seals suppliers today; they can come up with a 67mm OD metal jacketed seal (VS 65mm OD on the ones TW uses). While at CJ, I talked to an engineer from NVG and he said they (seals) are pressed in with 800# pressure at the factory :shocked: . This means that pressing on a 65mm seal by "fingertip" pressure is not a good long term fix, I haven't tried pressing on a 67mm one yet (.08" larger in dia.). The NVG engineer also said to stay away from the rubber-cased seals (due to expansion and contraction of the TC under operating temperatures). Use a metal-cased seal (outside dia. is metal).
I then called TW and he told me that he tried using Permatex red HD threadlocker over the weekend and was very impressed with the results and will ship out all future pressed seals using this product. It is rated ~250 in-lbs and 300*F.
I drove to Virginia Beach, then CJ, then back to Detroit (approx 2000 miles) on this set-up and had NO leaks. When time permits, I will try pressing a 67mm seal on.
Hope this helps,

BLUTO :wave1:

Re: 242 (231) TC rear seal problem

I just received a Tom Wood kit for my '98 XJ and then came across this thread. I called TW (spoke with troy) and he confirmed they are now using locktite to glue in the seal. I hope I don't have any trouble. I've owned a couple oil dripping Harleys so I'm used to it, but that doesn't mean I like it.

Chuck

Ive got over 3000 miles on the Locktite seals without any drips!

BLUTO

Hey Bluto

update please, is it still working?

Affirmative!