lockers! what ya running and why?

[denverd1]

I've had both ends lunchbox locked for a few years. It's a barrel of fun. Swapping axles. Thinking about lockers. What I like, didn't like, never doing again type of thing.

Being front locked on 33's has created some issues, namely steering gears. I'm on my 3rd. The frame rail where the gear mounts is also F'd. I believe the rig had a collision on front driver corner. I beefed it all up when I ripped the bumper off, but didn't give that section of frame rail any love. Got a SFR brace for the inner frame and will throw some angle iron and plate on bottom and outside.

I'm also going hydro assist when the axles go in. will be on 37s and wouldn't trust the gear to hold up getting out of my driveway in current form.

So... since I'm doing hydro assist, do lunchbox again for simplicity? I like simplicity. they just work. no air lines or other crap to break. point and shoot. will hydro assist negate any turning-while-locked issues? they're cheap and I've never had a problem after beating on them pretty hard for several years. ratcheting doesn't bother me...

Or! go auto in the rear, something selectable or at least with better manners up front?
Eaton or any other e-locker would work. Not as simple, but definitely not complicated.

Does grizzly stay locked or only engage with wheel spin? I would be ok with that.

Any LSD worth putting up front? I'd rather have a more mechanical relationship than clutches. Do they still suck?

will be 90% trail, 10% road trips jeep to the local jeep event. may swing by the Bed Bath and Beyond, don't know if we'll have time.

those with locked front ends, what do you have and why?

[Black1990jeep]

A locked rig cant be driven on dry pavement, that is what is killing your steering gear, and it will harm other things too, axles, U joints, etc...

You need a selectable locker if you want to drive on the street.

I have an ARB air locker in front, Trutrak LSD in rear. no problems, but I only lock the front when absolutely needed, and only on dirt or snow, off road.

[Black1990jeep]

Dont use angle iron, use steel angle. angle iron maybe ok for a wankly bed frame, but not for the jeep. Steel is much stronger and not as brittle!

[JonnyCat63]

I have Eaton e-lockers up front on all 3 of my XJ's. All D30's. It's an open diff when not in use and fully locked with the flip of a switch. All 3 are mainly trail rigs, but do see some pavement, too.

For me, I like the E-locker for 2 main reasons.
1. It's select-ability. On or off. Don't have to worry about on road manners.
2. Ease of operation and wiring. It's easy to wire and all you need is a switch somewhere. I like not having to worry about an air compressor or air lines, especially with the lack of abundant space in an XJ.

The price is comparable to an ARB, but I like the simplicity of the E-locker. Not sure if the strength is comparable.

For the rears, I have the Detroit locker in all of them. Easy, strong, and I don't notice any appreciable bad road manners. I don't even have to think about them, give it gas and both wheels lock up. Cheaper than a select-able, and I think it's a great option.

With the Detroit's in the back, I rarely have to lock the fronts. I'm sold on the Detroit's in the rear, and E-lockers up front. YMMV.

[RCP Phx]

Like already said about the characteristics, ARB up front and a No-Slip in the rear.

[Phil]

Originally Posted by Black1990jeep

A locked rig cant be driven on dry pavement, that is what is killing your steering gear, and it will harm other things too, axles, U joints, etc...

You need a selectable locker if you want to drive on the street.

That is ignorant and wrong. A 4x4 with a front automatic locker cannot be driven on the street while four wheel drive is engaged but you don’t want to do that anyway. If you have an NP-242 or other “full-time” capable case, you should not use the full-time mode. But, 2hi in an NP-231, NP-242, Atlas, etc is fine.

The only D30 front axle failure I ever had was breaking a lunchbox locker center pin and destroying the stock carrier. HP D30, 4.88s, alloy shafts, 35s. If I were building another D30, I would go full case Detroit.

I would go full case auto locker in the front, as it is invisible in 2wd and I want it to always work when in 4wd. Rear selectable locker so you can turn it off for tight turns and street driving.

My buggy has spool in the front and ARB in the back.

[srb531]

e- locker front, detroit locker rear, just works. lsd & trutracs are a waste of money. imo, if ur really wheeling it.

[bajabronco]

I have eaton e-lockers front and rear. D44 front, Ford 8.8 rear. They work well for me!

[Evan03]

Grizzly drives like normal in 2wd on the street when tcase is engaged its locked 99.999% of the time.
Grizzly front and rear welded is my combo. So far I really like it but only have 100or so dirt miles on the Grizzly. In 4wd you definitely know there is bear pulling you around.

I did Grizzly locker and 4.88 at same time. Thing is a offroad beast now. Very fun go anywhere kinda rig. Currently working on wheels to try 37s

I dunno about hydro. 1ton over the knuckle steering is working very well for me. Maybe not with 37s

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[Tim_MN]

Originally Posted by Black1990jeep

A locked rig cant be driven on dry pavement, that is what is killing your steering gear, and it will harm other things too, axles, U joints, etc...

You need a selectable locker if you want to drive on the street. .

Oh, really. Please explain further ?


My 2000 has a D30 Lockright and the Chry 8.25 has a PowerTrax No-Slip. No problems with either one, with dozens of 4x4 trips to Moab, Colorado, and Minnesota and more than 50,000 road miles summer and winter in Minnesota. Cost was the main deciding factor, I can't afford larger tires, locking differentials, and deeper gears all at once.



denverd1, what is the budget ?

Auto Lockers are good, Selectable Lockers are better. If the budget is tight, auto lock the rear and selectable in the front. Detroit TrueTrac is the only Limited Slip worth installing, and I would put it in the front axle. Unless e-lockers are more durable than a few years ago, I would pass on them.

[Anak]

I have an OX locker in the rear and love it.

Plan is to put an OX in the front too.

The rear is cable actuated. The front will be with an electric solenoid since the experience of others has shown that a cable doesn't play well with the front suspension. Cable works fine for the rear though. Just requires intelligent routing.

[Black1990jeep]

Originally Posted by Phil

That is ignorant and wrong. A 4x4 with a front automatic locker cannot be driven on the street while four wheel drive is engaged but you don’t want to do that anyway. If you have an NP-242 or other “full-time” capable case, you should not use the full-time mode. But, 2hi in an NP-231, NP-242, Atlas, etc is fine.

The only D30 front axle failure I ever had was breaking a lunchbox locker center pin and destroying the stock carrier. HP D30, 4.88s, alloy shafts, 35s. If I were building another D30, I would go full case Detroit.

I would go full case auto locker in the front, as it is invisible in 2wd and I want it to always work when in 4wd. Rear selectable locker so you can turn it off for tight turns and street driving.

My buggy has spool in the front and ARB in the back.

Go ahead a mess up you rig with the front lock on a dry pavement while turning. jeezI am not ignorant. but you are rude.

[Evan03]

Here's my messed up rig. I love that it's messed up. I also love that I dont follow internet miss information

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[Black1990jeep]

Originally Posted by Tim_MN

Oh, really. Please explain further ?


My 2000 has a D30 Lockright and the Chry 8.25 has a PowerTrax No-Slip. No problems with either one, with dozens of 4x4 trips to Moab, Colorado, and Minnesota and more than 50,000 road miles summer and winter in Minnesota. Cost was the main deciding factor, I can't afford larger tires, locking differentials, and deeper gears all at once.



denverd1, what is the budget ?

Auto Lockers are good, Selectable Lockers are better. If the budget is tight, auto lock the rear and selectable in the front. Detroit TrueTrac is the only Limited Slip worth installing, and I would put it in the front axle. Unless e-lockers are more durable than a few years ago, I would pass on them.

If you are locked and try to turn on dry pavement, with no tire slippage, the fact that the outside wheel must spin faster than the inside wheel to make the turn, will fight with the locked diff. Thus if you want a locker it must be able to be disconnected for those circumstances. A selectable locker be it air, electric or mechanically switched is needed, or you need an open diff or a limited slip. With a locker you must remember to turn it off when on dry pavement. A limited slip automatically works by allowing some slip in a turn to account for the difference in tire rpm during a turn.

If you are full locked, with no wheel slippage, things can break when turning.

I have a limited slip in back, and an air locker in front, the air locker is only used when off road when extra traction is desired, else I leave it off, this makes steering easier, and reduces stresses on the parts.

[Evan03]

I think you need to spend some time researching lockers.

Your explaining a spool and Lincoln locker. Or in my case a miller locker.

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