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Click noise, every 30 sec's, voltage drops .3v, next click voltage returns?

I would bet it was caused by the low voltage on the battery -- something didn't like only 10 volts -- probably won't be able to repeat it with a full charged battery
Negative. As shown in the video, I have the fully charged battery and the condition is present.

Did you ever isolate the power antenna?
No, I did not do any further trouble-shooting since the problem went away last year. Of course, now that the problem is no longer intermittent, I can actually do something now.

Getting late here so any trouble-shooting will have to wait until tomorrow. In the mean time, I plan on opening up the Electrical FSM for some study.
 
The relay for the power antenna is on the passenger side. I just can't remember if it is under the dash or behind the kick panel in the footwell.
 
After drinking more coffee, I'm thinking the click sound you hear is actually a circuit breaker.
 
Negative. As shown in the video, I have the fully charged battery and the condition is present.

Sorry didn't realize this was an older thread and I had already posted that...


So I did some digging on pro demand , just looking for relay locations -- seems you have a few relays in that area --

AC/heater blower relay -- under right side of dash on evap housing
door lock/unlock relays -- under dash behind right kick panel
power antenna relay -- under right side of dash behind glove box


Thats all I see -- hope this helps
 
...So I did some digging on pro demand , just looking for relay locations -- seems you have a few relays in that area ...AC/heater blower relay -- under right side of dash on evap housing
door lock/unlock relays -- under dash behind right kick panel
power antenna relay -- under right side of dash behind glove box
Thats all I see -- hope this helps
Thanks for your research.

I was able to stop the cycling ... for now. Problem remained long enough for me to identify the circuit (it?) was on. The fuse labeled "ETR" protecting the radio, clock and power antenna was removed and the condition stopped. I then removed the right kick panel, checked the connectors/relays there and put the panel back. All is well for now. Again.

Although, I now know which circuit the offender is on. I think four_shot has the right idea that the power antenna relay/power antenna have something to do with this. I thank the others as well for your input. I'll have to ponder as to what to do next.
 
Not sure how accessable it is, but if you unplug the power antenna motor with the radio on, it will effectively be a fixed antenna. No more electrical load on circuit.
 
Not sure how accessable it is, but if you unplug the power antenna motor with the radio on, it will effectively be a fixed antenna. No more electrical load on circuit.
Easily accessible. Since I was not able to exactly pin-point the problem, I'm still pondering what to do next.

A strange by-product of this situation; my vehicle now starts IMMEDIATELY upon turning on the ignition (like it should!). Normally took 2-3 secs before the engine would fire up. It's been 15 years since that last occurred. The delay started after a return from a dealers service center. Never could figure out what caused the delay or how to resolve. I'll enjoy the moment while its lasts.
 
While I was "pondering" as to what to do next, the Jeep made the decision for me ... it killed my battery again overnight.

I'm trying to re-charge the battery again. I wasn't able to last time without taking it back to the shop where I purchased. In the meantime, it looks like I am going to disconnect the power lead to the antenna and see what happens once I get the battery back to operational. Having two batteries sure would be a "nice to have" around this time.
 
What is the age and type/brand of battery that keeps being discharged like that?
Battery is about 1.5 yrs. old. Brand name MotorMaster from Canadian Tire. Since we now know what the cause is, a drained battery no matter what the brand name would behave the same.

The battery is now up to about 8v on my 10A charger after about 24 hrs. Its definitely struggling but it is going in the right diredtion. The MEGA 3000 charger at the store recovered it in 2 hrs. last week. I may have to take it back tomorrow if there's no improvement. Would be nice to have a second vehicle at this time as well.
 
24 hrs at 10 amps should be sufficient to charge it up to 12.6V. I think the battery is done.
 
I wasn't thinking the battery was at fault -- just wondering how many times it can be completely discharged and survive

AGM doesn't like low voltage at all -- you'll have better luck with a standard, lead acid battery where you can check/add fluid

If you get a chance pick one of these up --
https://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332201_200332201

Not going to help with a fast charge but they will help to recover a bad battery given enough time -- I've had really good luck with them. Saved a few "dead ones"
 
24 hrs at 10 amps should be sufficient to charge it up to 12.6V. I think the battery is done.
I agree. I had to try. Its very inconvenient for me to make the trip on a bike w/battery back to the store.

Battery got up to 9v. I'll see if I can wrangle a new battery since it does has a warranty.


I wasn't thinking the battery was at fault -- just wondering how many times it can be completely discharged and survive
... AGM doesn't like low voltage at all -- you'll have better luck with a standard, lead acid battery where you can check/add fluid
I thought you may be leaning in that direction since you asked. I am too concerned about its longevity now as well.
 
Sweet.

I was kinda leaning towards the battery being the cause, not the effect. But I suppose we'll see.

Just to satisfy my curiosity...have you tested for excess A/C current in the charging system? I've seen nasty gremlins caused by a bad diode or two in the alternator.
 
...I was kinda leaning towards the battery being the cause, not the effect. But I suppose we'll see. Just to satisfy my curiosity...have you tested for excess A/C current in the charging system? I've seen nasty gremlins caused by a bad diode or two in the alternator.
I measured about a 50ma draw (using a different meter) with everything hookup up. That amp-clamp meter I used in the video is giving me erroneous results in this application for some reason. No, I have not tested for excess A/C current in the charging system. What would be the best way to test for this?

It was 10 months before the condition showed up after the first time around so I'm not sure how quickly I'll be able to EXACTLY pin-point the culprit. I'll have to take baby steps allowing that circuit back in. In the mean time, I will pull the ETR fuse (the circuit I identified earlier), which among things, powers the antenna.

Since I saved some money by not having to buy a new battery, I purchased a new charger from Canadian Tire. A "smart" charger that knows what a AGM battery is. To be continued ...
0111517_1

http://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/m...battery-charger-75-25-12-4a-0111519p.html#srp
 
Set your volt meter to AC voltage.

Start engine

Red lead to batt positive, black lead to batt negative.

Check at idle and 1500 RPM

Anything greater than 0.25V is suspect.
 
Set your volt meter to AC voltage. Start engine ... Red lead to batt positive, black lead to batt negative. Check at idle and 1500 RPM ... Anything greater than 0.25V is suspect.
Couldn't get much simpler. After all the years of participating in Jeep forums, I have never come across this subject (albeit, I was never looking either). Thanks.
 
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