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WJ Knuckle swap and wheel fitment

tuxfan212

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Florida
I am collecting parts to do the WJ knuckle swap on my MJ but I was curious if anyone has had wheel fitment problems with OEM 15" wheels. Specifically the Eliminator specific 10 hole with fake rivets (similar to XJ "salt shakers". However, a general consensus would be useful.
 
I think it all depends what brake calipers you plan to use. If you do the akebono than no, but with the teves you should be able to. Back spacing of stock rim shouldn't hit as the dubjs are similar? The rim width is the factor with the akebonos however.
I have dubJ knuckles and run 15" rims with the teves. People hate on em cus they "aren't as good" as the akebono, but dual piston is better than the stocker single piston any way you slice it
 
The teves have the wire hanger retaining clip on the outside that is a dead give away fwiw
 
The akebonos are all the rage... they ARE superior to our stock calipers, but they ain't brembos! LOL they also make it a much more expensive upgrade, as most people would have to replace 15" rims with something bigger- AND new tires on top of it all $$$$
The Teves are still a good upgrade imo, and I don't want to run 16+" wheels. People do so and it works good for them, but I prefer less rim weight and more rubber. Always have preferred 15s on my offroad rigs.
 
In my experience, 15" aluminum wheels cleared the Akebonos. The clearance issues came from over the knuckle, offset TREs.
 
Really? I haven't heard of people running the akebonos with 15s....
I have OTK steering with zero issues on dubj knuckes
 
I'm running heims, so that probably explains it
 
I had issues with 15" stock rims and AKebonos. I do have Chevy 1-Ton cross over steering and OTK track bar. 16" Aluminums worked for me.
 
I run 3.75" backspace wheels with 1" spacers and offset heims. I ground off a little material on the back of the calipers (about 1/8" or so on the highest point).
 
I just finished swapping WJ knuckles on my XJ with Akebonos and stock WJ TREs. My 15" Jeep grizzly wheels will not clear the caliper. Stock 15" steelies will also not clear. Zero offset 15" steel wheels did just barely fit.
 
More like use the WJ TREs for at least the lower TREs connecting the two knuckles together, and either cut and tap the sleeve to the correct length or cut, insert DOM sleeve, and weld the sleeve back together to the correct length. For the drag link I am not quite sure what I would do but it would likely be something similar. However, looking at the setup I am thinking I will have to use an offset TRE at the passenger side knuckle where the drag link connects.

All of this is theoretical though. I am not willing to use anything other than Eliminator specific wheels on the truck. If I can't get the Akebono's to fit with light grinding I will see if I can source some teves calipers. If I can't get those to fit I am SOL and will have to come up with something different or live with stock brakes on a 31" or smaller tire (w dual diaphragm brake booster, SS lines, good pads, and ZJ rear brakes).
 
I did look into using the WJ steering components at one point. I did have the parts in hand. I look at WJ boards. Some of them were having issues with the stock components breaking near the TREs. I went with the Ruff Stuff 1-ton Chevy on my first one. I pieced together the same setup on another. DOM tubing not cheap. I also run OTK trackbars on both.

Some did use the stock WJ stuff on a build. I saw it in the last year or so.

Also, as for rims, I did change over to a WJ hub bearing unit to use the WJ rims. I used adapter spacers on the rear. I have a plan to delete those. Other projects keep getting in the way.
 
I have been running WJ Akebono with Mickey Thompson Sidebiter 15x8's. They are 3.625 backspacing. I did have to shave off about 1/16" on just the outside of calipers.
 
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