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Upper Shackle weld nut spinning...

Peregrine

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Highlands Ranch
I made the mistake of trying to remove my upper shackle bolt when installing my RE 3.5" a couple years back. Figured I broke the weld nut when I heard the "pop". I am about to install some JKS boomerang shackles and tried the bolt again...bolt just spins tightening and loosening. Removed my bumper and cut out some of the sheet metal to get a good look. Yep...nut broke from the frame rail. Now what? Can't get a deep socket on it...not enough room in the frame rail to get it in there. Bolt is too deep to put a standard socket on it. Not to mention, there is not much room to let a socket fit around the nut anyhow due the frame rail hole looks to be about the same size as the nut...needs to be a thin walled socket I guess. Anyone know exact size socket to fit on the weld nut? Any ideas of what I can do without having to chop too much. Cut the bolt in the frame rail and use a standard socket? What to do after I get the bolt out...nylon lock nut with some loctite? I have no access to a welder by the way. Have searched and can't find the info I am looking for. Thanks!
http://i713.photobucket.com/albums/ww132/mtnperegrine/ShackleBolt12.jpg

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if it were me i would sawzall the bolt, pull out the pieces, and put a longer one back in, with a washer and nut inside the frame rail where you can get to it with a open ended wrench through the access hole you cut.

probably not the best way, but it will get you rolling again.
 
I fixed this on a buddies rig last fall. It sucked. Used a cut off wheel to open up the pocket from the bottom then used the saws-all and a whole bunch of blades to cut the bolt at the nut end. Drove it all out and then put in a new bolt and nylock with anti-sieze.

I am so glad I bought my rig in SoCal.

John
 
You'll need to measure and locate the appropriate spot inside your cargo area and cut open a hole in the cargo floor so you can reach in there and remove the offending nut and replace it. This is the most common "fix".
 
Grimm,

Thanks for the reply. I may try that method...the only issue I can forsee is finding washers of a lesser diameter than the frame rail "hole" to fill in that gap. I guess I could just put washers on the inside edge of the frame rail, but feel that there would be alot of pressure on that part of the rail. I most likely could find a replacment bolt at the dealership, checked hardware stores to no avail.

Anyone else gone through the bumper area to access this nut and have a good solution? I don't want to go in through the floor or cut a hole in the bottom of the frame rail. Trying to cut as little as possible. I can't imagine that going in from the floor board would give me any more room than what I have currently and still raises the issue of what to use to get the nut out. but, I could be wrong.
 
Tried to use a standard socket after cutting off some of the excess bolt inside the framerail. The nut must not be a hex nut...no size sockets will work. Guess it's time to try to cut the bolt between the shackle and framerail...and if that fails...time to cut into the floor.
 
i would be much more comfortable cutting the floor than the frame rail.

good luck, post up if you find a solution so others can see how you solved the problem
 
I fixed this on a buddies rig last fall. It sucked. Used a cut off wheel to open up the pocket from the bottom then used the saws-all and a whole bunch of blades to cut the bolt at the nut end. Drove it all out and then put in a new bolt and nylock with anti-sieze.

I am so glad I bought my rig in SoCal.

John

x2

I have had to do this to many of xjs, you need to cut open the pocket inside the shackle box holding the nut. I found it easier this way than taking the interior apart, measuring and cutting the floor to get to the nut.
 
i would be much more comfortable cutting the floor than the frame rail.

Agreed. If I get time tomorrow...I will try to cut the bolt between the bushing and the shackle box. If that's no problem, replace the bolt and I will feed a small stack of washers and a nut in the bumper access hole to re-fasten and use a standard open ended wrench to hold it. Loctite of course.

I found that the only size socket that would even grab an edge of the nut was the 23mm. Anything bigger than that wouldn't fit in the access hole of the framerail. that's what made me believe that this nut is not a actual hex. Looks more like an octogon...what the hell? Maybe a 12-point might be better than a 6 point? I don't have any though.

I will post the outcome...especially if I can find a socket to fit. that would be a good thing for someone out there to know.

Thanks everyone!...if you got anything else, please let me know.
 
Looks like there are no sockets that will fit this nut. I went to the dealership for a new bolt and got to see this type of weld nut at the parts dept. It is an elongated hex nut. 2 sides are 30% longer than the other 4 sides. Time to cut the bolt once this damn weather breaks.
 
Same thing happened to me. Just cut the bolt close to the inside of the frame rail so you can get both pieces out, then drill 3 or so small holes around where the nut was welded to the frame. Put the new bolt in and thread the new nut on and just weld the nut through the holes, and its as good as new.
 
You'll need to measure and locate the appropriate spot inside your cargo area and cut open a hole in the cargo floor so you can reach in there and remove the offending nut and replace it. This is the most common "fix".

x2 done this for both shackle and front spring bolt.
 
I pray that I don't have to ever deal with this.. IF I ever get them out im putting lots of anti seize on them.
 
UPDATE...

I have finally conquered this issue...with many lessons learned. Hope this can help those people with the same problem.

After trying almost every method told to me, cutting the bolt on the uniframe side of the shackle box was the best and least invasive way of fixing this issue. After 4 sawzall blades (I was using too much pressure!) I finally got throught the bolt (and bushing/sleeve) of the shackle. I removed the "loose" weld nut and rest of bolt from the rear access area by the bumper. The head of the bolt and rest of the shaft came right out of the other end of the shackle. (leaf spring was already detached from shackle). If your bolt is seized to the sleeve...cut the bolt on the opposite side of the shackle box and the shackle will fall out. Replaced the shackle with the lift shackle and put bolt through. From the bumper area access, I placed 5-6 washers over the bolt to fill the void in the "pocket" where the weld nut was, then used a 14mm nylock nut. The washers were (grade 8) 1/2" washers (1/8" thick or so). I needed to wallow out the 1/2" a little bit with a dremel to fit over the bolt...only took a couple of seconds per washer. Got a open ended wrench on that nut through the access area and tightened it down to spec...good to go.

I can't forsee any issues with this method of reinstallation. A new weld nut would be nice, but I don't have access to a welder and don't think it would add any advantage except if I decide to swap shackles again. (I would have to remove bumper again)

Lessons learned...DO NOT cut into your floorboard. I have heard about this method over a dozen times. The fact remains that if you cut through your floor, you still have to cut a hole in the "pocket" where the nut is...you still can't reach it with a wrench or socket. You get no better advantage then cutting the pocket from below and you get to avoid having to reweld your floor together and risk excess rusting in that area. I personally would not want to cut into the pocket for risk of strength. You welding guys can probably strengthen that area back up though!

As for the nut access hole in the frame rail...the nut is 24mm...not oblong like the dealership told me. (1992 model by the way). The access hole is 30mm. There is no way to get a 24mm socket in that access hole unless you enlarge the access hole by means of torch or similar. The confines are too small for dremel or sawzall. You may be able to get that nut with a very thinned wall 24mm socket...then you wouldn't have to mess with any of cutting! My 24mm impact socket didn't even come close to fitting in the hole. Make sure your washers don't exceed 30mm outside diameter.

After all this, it seems the most basic approach to this worked. Caused much headache trying to find a better way though. I know this doesn't apply to many and may seem like an obvious resolution to this problem...but I hope this may help someone out there. Now I have to find someone to weld my floor back together!!
 
I just had to handle this last weekend when installing some extended shackles. And did what has been eluded to. I ended up sawzall'ing the bolt shorter to where I could get a short socket on it. Then we were able to get it out. And had another bolt to put back in which also had to be sawed down once the nut started getting tight. But now that that's in I don't intend on having to take it back out.

Edit: Did not notice you posted saying you got it done.
 
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