Inner C truss?

Getting the JK D44 ready. I have some pieces from Artec for a JK to XJ conversion. Among them are a set of trusses for the inner C. Do the inner C need to be preheated before welding using flux core wire? There are plenty of conflicting statements on the web regarding the C's.
All the other pieces get welded to the tubes so no problem there. I did the inner tubes instead of a truss on the outside. Don't think I need it for 32" tires.

I believe the C's are cast steel, so in theory the answer is no, you do not have to pre/post heat because you're welding similar materials. However, the C's are a large chunk of material that will absorb a significant amount of heat. I think you'll find a much more consistent welding process if you put some heat into them before welding. It can't hurt.

XJlimitedx99 said:

I believe the C's are cast steel, so in theory the answer is no, you do not have to pre/post heat because you're welding similar materials. However, the C's are a large chunk of material that will absorb a significant amount of heat. I think you'll find a much more consistent welding process if you put some heat into them before welding. It can't hurt.

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Thank you XJlimited. I will try that.

:helpme: I am adding to the thread a different question.

What would be the pinion preload on a newly regeared diff? Mine feel a bit tight. I know giving an accurate answer is difficult. It has the OEM electric lock, new ring and pinion, and all new bearings and seals.
I was done by someone who prefers Ford 9" and various GM diffs. I am not sure his experience with Dana, but they are not one of his preferred brands. The axle shafts are not installed at this time.

Once its assembled, now your feeling the ring/pinion and the carrier bearing pre-load!

RCP Phx said:

Once its assembled, now your feeling the ring/pinion and the carrier bearing pre-load!

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That is correct. Only, I do not know how tight it is supposed to be. I could remove the carrier then put my inch pound torque wrench on it, but I don't want to.

On wrangler forums, there seem to be an issue with the JK pinion bearings failing prematurely. I am on the impression they use shims instead of a crush sleeve and if they are set too tight the bearings fail. I do not know for sure what is inside them since I have not seen a parts list for them.

My job for next week will be to install all the brackets. The one question I had was the angle of the spring pads in relation to the axle center line. The D30 under the XJ right now have a 3-degree difference on the spring pad between the left and right side with the driver side being dead parallel with the axle centerline/pinion shaft. I have a full set of brackets for several years that I purchased from Artec. Time to work my magic with my flux core wire.

techno1154 said:

Getting the JK D44 ready. I have some pieces from Artec for a JK to XJ conversion. Among them are a set of trusses for the inner C. Do the inner C need to be preheated before welding using flux core wire? There are plenty of conflicting statements on the web regarding the C's.
All the other pieces get welded to the tubes so no problem there. I did the inner tubes instead of a truss on the outside. Don't think I need it for 32" tires.

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I've installed the Artec C-Gussets and link bracket/truss kits on half a dozen front diffs and didn't feel the need to pre/post heat, as the C's are cast steel.

I run a Miller 175 230V welder, set up for GMAW, so proper heating/penetration is less of an issue than with a 110V flux-core setup, so it wouldn't hurt anything to preheat the C's with a torch prior to welding on the gussets.

add heat. especially with a 110 setup

Pinnion nut on dana30 doesnt affect preload. The shim stack does i forget the rotating preload the pinion is suposed to have thats easy to look up if you realy want to check it.

Id heat with a little map torch so your 175 heat isnt lost right away.

I didnt preheat and mine are holding up fine. Crank n bake baby.

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There should be a total in.lbs rolling torque for the pinion/carrier. If that's within range you should be ok but that doesn't mean the pinion is correct. Too loose a pinion preload or no pre load is just as bad as too tight unless excessive tight. I always aim for middle of the road preload, but I mainly do heavy equipment. If the person actually knows how to set gears correctly and went by the numbers appropriate for the individual diff, it should be good. They all set up basically the same but require slightly different preloads, lash, etc... Obviously the ones that use pinion shims and carrier adjusters are easiest to set up

cherokeefan_1 said:

There should be a total in.lbs rolling torque for the pinion/carrier. If that's within range you should be ok but that doesn't mean the pinion is correct. Too loose a pinion preload or no pre load is just as bad as too tight unless excessive tight. I always aim for middle of the road preload, but I mainly do heavy equipment. If the person actually knows how to set gears correctly and went by the numbers appropriate for the individual diff, it should be good. They all set up basically the same but require slightly different preloads, lash, etc... Obviously the ones that use pinion shims and carrier adjusters are easiest to set up

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Thanks, I will look into that.

I have all the brackets tacked in place. Now it is time to get someone with a good welding machine to burn them in. I know of a person who have experience doing just that. He has all the necessary equipment to everything that needs to be done. I am a bit optimistic regarding his skills and experience.
I am not sure the inner C brackets are necessary. I do not anticipate going larger than 32" tires, I do not do hard core wheeling, nor do I jump my XJ. But I paid for the brackets so...might as well.

Toss em on. Youl be able to tie lower coilover bracket into them at a later date.

They also hold broken shafts from banging around to much if needing to limp to a rock to lift tire on in te field . Ive changed 5 or 6 front shafts with no jack. Just use trees rocks or anything available to get tire off the ground.





A capable machine from harbor freight is less than a grand. Or everlast, klutch.



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