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D44 installed now no room for slip in my slip yoke!

xDUMPTRUCKx

xDUMPTRUCKx

NAXJA Forum User
Location
highway to hell
well the D44 pushed my driveshaft all the way into the tailcone of ye olde 231, so now my question to you is,

when lifting the slip yoke gets pulled out right?

so a simple install of some blocks or something will pull the yoke out enough right?

i got a 2" of solid iron blocks sittin on the shelf and i think theyd work just fine.
 
What did you remove?

I went from 3" or a bit less with an 8.25 axle and odd springs to 6" or a bit less with a 44 with other springs... kept the same driveshaft and apprx same yoke engagement,
 
didnt remove anything, just installed the mj 44 into my xj to replace a broken d35.

but will lifting pull the slip yoke out of the tail cone?
 
xXJx said:
didnt remove anything, just installed the mj 44 into my xj to replace a broken d35.

but will lifting pull the slip yoke out of the tail cone?
Click to expand...

yup
 
Thje snout of the D44 is indeed about 1" longer than the D35/8.25. As you compress the rear springs, it pushes the driveshaft up into the tcase. I've seen problems with this before. Guys get a longer driveshaft to compensate for the lift, but never realize if they stuff both rear wheels they can bind the tcase if the slip joint isn't long enough. Short of getting a shorter driveshaft, the answer is to limit the up travel of your axle with bump stops on both sides.
 
Not to split hairs but the D44 and the 8.25 are the same in pinion length and both 3/4" longer than a D35 from the information I have gathered. Just fitting a tailshaft from any XJ with the same transimission as yours with either of the two axles will solve your problem. I dont think the lift blocks will pull out the driveshaft enough as you would need maybe 6" extra lift to pull it 3/4" outwards. You could also just drill the spring perches with another centre pin locating hole 3/4" further forward to move your whole axle back and extend your wheel base.
 
That's what I had to do when I installed my rear D60. Amazingly I'm at 7.5" of lift and using the original stock driveshaft, no SYE. I do have a t-case drop(3/4"), a YJ slip and the pinion tilted up. To reuse the original driveshaft with the long D60 pinion I had to move the axle back 1". This actually worked quite well with the "trimmed" fenders. Its more centered in the wheel well now.

I didn't actually re-drill my leafs but used a 3/4" block with the hole offset.
 
Gojeep said:
Not to split hairs but the D44 and the 8.25 are the same in pinion length and both 3/4" longer than a D35 from the information I have gathered. Just fitting a tailshaft from any XJ with the same transimission as yours with either of the two axles will solve your problem. I dont think the lift blocks will pull out the driveshaft enough as you would need maybe 6" extra lift to pull it 3/4" outwards. You could also just drill the spring perches with another centre pin locating hole 3/4" further forward to move your whole axle back and extend your wheel base.
Click to expand...

really I picked this up a while ago
is it wrong

measuremnts from "center of axle to center of pinion yoke"
D35=11 1/2"
D44=12"
C8.25=12 5/8"

that spring perch drill isnt a bad idea in theory ...
 
VegasAnthony said:
really I picked this up a while ago
is it wrong

measuremnts from "center of axle to center of pinion yoke"
D35=11 1/2"
D44=12"
C8.25=12 5/8"

that spring perch drill isnt a bad idea in theory ...
Click to expand...

The more you search the more different numbers you will find! I was concentrating on the D44 as just had Ryan build me one so had to work out the length of a replacement driveshaft for a SYE I am doing at the same time. The information I got was that the stock driveshafts for the 8.25 and the D44 were the same length ( so pinion length might be 'slightly' different? ) but the bulk of quotes were that a D44 was 3/4" longer than the D35. Some quoted as little as 1/2" and as much as 1" but 90% said 3/4" difference. I was just going by numbers that more the same were the more accurate but of coarse it is possible that a wrong number can get repeated more?
 
VegasAnthony said:
that spring perch drill isnt a bad idea in theory ...
Click to expand...

Do you have reason to believe it's not such a good idea in practice?

I ask because I had the same situation, and thought of the same solution a month ago. I'm getting plates today to get her back on the road tomorrow, but you've got me wondering if I did something bad...

Robert
 
I recently swapped a 44 from an 8.25 in my XJ...it was indeed about an inch longer than the 8.25 and gave almost zero room for the slip yolk to opperate. Luckily, i had ordered a driveshaft to the proper length for the 44.

Just have your driveshaft modified....its better than messing up something in your TC or building some rediculous bumpstops.
 
I_1BADXJ_I said:
Do you have reason to believe it's not such a good idea in practice?

I ask because I had the same situation, and thought of the same solution a month ago. I'm getting plates today to get her back on the road tomorrow, but you've got me wondering if I did something bad...

Robert
Click to expand...

I know of many that have done over the last 25 years without trouble.
 
I_1BADXJ_I said:
Do you have reason to believe it's not such a good idea in practice?

I ask because I had the same situation, and thought of the same solution a month ago. I'm getting plates today to get her back on the road tomorrow, but you've got me wondering if I did something bad...

Robert
Click to expand...

no not at all , Im just saying I went over in my head when I read youir post and thought that it work..in my head anyways

lo and behold
looks like its being done for quite a while ..I didnt know that....
 
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