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Need help!!!! Rear spring bolts

Yokalryder

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Reno, NV
I am just trying to swap my rear springs. On the driver side the bolt unthreaded from the body but the sleeve through the bushing is rusted to the bolt and I cannot get it out. On the passenger side the top bolt for the shackle broke the welded nut inside the body loose. I am absolutely ready to snap, I'm out of ideas.... for the shackle bolt I was thinking about cutting a small hole behind the bumper bracket to try and access it. I'm completely stumped on the driver side with the rusted sleeve... please any advice will help
 
If you're swapping rear springs, spread the box a little and cut the bolt.

For the pass side you'll have to cut open the "frame" weld a new nut on and weld it back together. I don't really know another way.
 
Just pulled mine off, it was a PITA. Agree, spread the box and cut the bolt, yank it out. For the other you could try drilling it out.
 
If you're swapping rear springs, spread the box a little and cut the bolt.

For the pass side you'll have to cut open the "frame" weld a new nut on and weld it back together. I don't really know another way.

Cutting into the frame and welding in a nut is, eh? It doesn't seem like a good solution. Why not install a shackle relocate kit. I had to cut both my lower shackle bolts as mentioned.
One or the front rear spring bolts stripped out the frame nut on my xj and solution was to drill and tap to 5/8-11 then ream the bushing in the spring to fit the 5/8 bolt. I used a sleeve on the bit extension to fit the outer mounting hole I.d. of the "box", so it drilled square to the frame.
Dunno if u had that problem w/ front rear spring bolts, but it's better than welding a nut in. Imo
 
Try heating the bolts with a propane torch like used for plumbing. The factory used thread locker on many of the larger bolts and heat is needed to melt it. Worked for me.
 
I had luck drilling a small hole next to the nut and then tack welding it back on. I built my own shackle relocation after tho.

If the front bolt unthreaded can you put a wrench behind the head to help pull it out or is the sleeve spinning too?
 
That's what happened to mine, front spring bolts loosened, but wouldn't come out of the bushing. After cutting it with a sawzall, that's when it was obvious the threads were bad, even with a propane torch and lots of creep oil.
 
The problem with these is that even if they break free of the nut, there is usually so much powered rust in the inner sleeve they bind when coming out. Generally when they bind I just cut the spring off because when I'm doing these jobs I don't care about saving the springs. If you care about saving the springs you'll need to cut the bolt and go from there. If the welded nut broke free of the frame you'll need to get into the frame to re-weld another one or at least put a socket on it. Think hole saw. Generally you need MAPP gas or an oxy/acetylene torch. Propane typically does not do very much on rusted parts. What works on Western U.S. vehicles for "rusted" hardware is meaningless for the Midwestern or Northeastern U.S. vehicles.
 
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