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flange yoke connecting DS and pinion yoke

S

Shomsky462

NAXJA Forum User
NAXJA Member
Location
Atascadero, CA
this isnt too advanced but whatever.
i swapped in a dana 44 rear into my xj a while ago, i was trying to snap someone out of a tough spot and the small tabs on the pinion yoke that keep the u-joint centered from side to side broke off. i fixed it with a new one and new u-joint retainer straps and it broke again, then agian once more. im sick of these stupid yokes with straps. they are horrible!!
anyways i want to make a flange type yoke like they have on toyotas.
i was thinkin to get another DS and take the slip yoke end of it(the part where the u-joint presses into all 4 sides intseed of just 2). then cut it, weld a flang to it then weld another flange to the pinion yoke so they both bolt together.
has any one done this before? does it make sense?
 
Id give tom woods a call or Jess at high angle drive line. They might have something like that already made.
 
Maybe you should consider why its happening,33's on stock gears=:explosion
Your sig probably says the rest about how you drive.
 
RCP Phx said:
Maybe you should consider why its happening,33's on stock gears=:explosion
Your sig probably says the rest about how you drive.
Click to expand...

hahaha yup 33's stock gears give it a more "stock" feel. nah just messin with ya im gonna regear soon to 4.88's but i really want to do something about the rear yoke and turn it into a flange cause i havent broken anything else on my jeep except for that, and its happened three times now and isnt that hard to fix just really sucks when your fully flexed over a pile of mud.
oh and JEEPME, i was at hollister and if you know the trails i was tryin to hit tank traps but decided it was too muddy then backed out and thats when i broke, i sheered 1/4" grade 8 bolts in half and ripped a strap in half. fixed it hit up "jungle" and broke right after i was on the road after i got through.
 
Are you sure you are not getting mad axle-wrap and contacting the two yokes?

That sounds like yoke contact.

Get a U-bolt yoke from the junk yard, it will fix your problems. And it's a lot cheaper than trying to bodge together a rock anchor flange (which my 8.8 is cursed with).
 
CRASH said:
Are you sure you are not getting mad axle-wrap and contacting the two yokes?

That sounds like yoke contact.

Get a U-bolt yoke from the junk yard, it will fix your problems. And it's a lot cheaper than trying to bodge together a rock anchor flange (which my 8.8 is cursed with).
Click to expand...

i drilled the pinion bolt holes out so i can run a 5/16" thread u-bolt through the yoke but ive still managed to rip two u-joints out of those u-bolts. and everytime it rips off the tabs on the yoke that keep the u-joint centered from side to side. its happened twice now so i am determined to make a flange out of my yoke and do a write-up on it if any of you are interested.
 
Shomsky462 said:
i drilled the pinion bolt holes out so i can run a 5/16" thread u-bolt through the yoke but ive still managed to rip two u-joints out of those u-bolts. and everytime it rips off the tabs on the yoke that keep the u-joint centered from side to side. its happened twice now so i am determined to make a flange out of my yoke and do a write-up on it if any of you are interested.
Click to expand...

Jess at High Angle Driveline makes a flange... probably cheaper and stronger than you can make it...
http://www.highangledriveline.com/
 
Why not take a little different approach!BTW,Just "fishing"
sldr_sub2.jpg
 
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its not that it keeps getting hit on rocks(i think but im not entirely sure). im gonna do the same thing that high angle driveline has with their dana 44 but not for a toyota, a jeep dana 44. reason being i cant use thier's is not because it wont fit the pinion on my axle but it wont fit the u-joint on the end of the driveshaft if i were to use a part of a toyota shaft to try and fit onto the u-joint. plus i kinda want to make my own because i can use whatever thickness metal i want and glob as much weld as i want.
this process is kinda hard to explain without pics thats why i am wiling to do a writeup if any of you are interested.
 
You are not dealing with the root cause of your problem, in my opinion.

Most people do not have the problems you are having, so either your driving is horrible and you deliberately drive into obstacles, or you have spring wrap that is deforming your yoke.

Again, this is NOT a common problem with a properly retained U-joint. Hell, I don't know anyone that wheels more or harder than Jes, and he has NEVER had your problem in 5 years of wheeling the hardest trails in the West. Same with Goatman, and many others. The solution to your problem is not a flange.
 
CRASH said:
You are not dealing with the root cause of your problem, in my opinion.

Most people do not have the problems you are having, so either your driving is horrible and you deliberately drive into obstacles, or you have spring wrap that is deforming your yoke.

Again, this is NOT a common problem with a properly retained U-joint. Hell, I don't know anyone that wheels more or harder than Jes, and he has NEVER had your problem in 5 years of wheeling the hardest trails in the West. Same with Goatman, and many others. The solution to your problem is not a flange.
Click to expand...

You can lead a horse to water !
 
well whether its my driving or axle wrap, it still doesnt change the fact that my yoke is breaking along with countless u-joint caps. and i was in tank traps when i broke it and in jungle(trails at hollister for those that dont know) when they broke. it also broke when i was snapping someone out on a pretty steep hill.
if it is axle wrap i really dont have the money for new springs and certainly not a 4-link coilover.
in my opinion a flange conversion is the strongest and cheapest way to solve my troubles. if not, a DS and yoke from PnP is all its gonna cost me.
if axle wrap is the case do you think that rough country will cover them in some kind of warranty or give me a discount on new ones? my lift is 7 months old so i havent had it for very long.
 
yeah i really dont want to get traction bars. i think if i sell the 4.5" springs i have now ill have a little money to put towards new 6" rear leafs. but im still gonna do the flange conversion.
thanks everyone for all the advice and help
-Ryan
 
Shomsky462 said:
y
thanks everyone for all the advice and help
-Ryan
Click to expand...
WTF?

Thanks for the help? You asked a question, when you've already made up yoru mind. Experianced minds on here suggested the correct answer to you however you said "I'm gonna do it anyway."

If you're going to post a question to people prepare for different points of view, one should also take into consideration that these people know what they're talking about. As Crash said the flange is going to do nothing for you.

But... Whatever, it's what you want to do.

Sequoia

Incidently - Get the traction bar; you will regret not having one when you get older and smarter.

Edit: Brett- Quit stepping on my ideas! :twak:
 
uhhhhh... ok then i guess i take back saying thanks??
why couldnt you just let it die?
 
Shomsky462 said:
well whether its my driving or axle wrap, it still doesnt change the fact that my yoke is breaking along with countless u-joint caps. and i was in tank traps when i broke it and in jungle(trails at hollister for those that dont know) when they broke. it also broke when i was snapping someone out on a pretty steep hill.
if it is axle wrap i really dont have the money for new springs and certainly not a 4-link coilover.
in my opinion a flange conversion is the strongest and cheapest way to solve my troubles. if not, a DS and yoke from PnP is all its gonna cost me.
if axle wrap is the case do you think that rough country will cover them in some kind of warranty or give me a discount on new ones? my lift is 7 months old so i havent had it for very long.
Click to expand...
i had the same proablem with mine and it is definately axle wrap! extend your spring perches forward 2 or 3 inches, i did mine and i havent broke since. i replaced the stock style perches with 2.5X2.5 1/4 wall tubing notched to confourm to the axle tube and instead of makeing them 4 inches long with the alignment hole centered, i made them 6 inches and put the hole to the rear two inch mark directly over the axle and left an extra 2 inches forward of the axle to work as a lever, works like a charm and i got an extra 1.5 inches of lift out of them too:D


stupid question though, have you re torqued your U bolts since the lift??
do you have any blocks in the rear??( both will definately add to wrap )


we never let any thing die, WE KILL IT!!!!!!1
 
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yeah that sound like it would work because the axle wouldnt be as easy to twist. ill tighten down my u-bolts (but yes i did torque them). so will this move my axle back 2". cause if it does then ill have more room for my flange conversion to work and more clearance cause im gonna chop the bottom rear quarter/rock panels. then maybye ill have lots of room to run 35's
 
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