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Need a shop recommendation

B

Better_than_Tom

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Corona
Hello,

Im not very happy with my current mechanic and I believe my jeep needs a new motor. He quoted me 4k which I think sounds a bit pricey. Does anyone know a shop that is really good at diagnosing motor issues or can replace my motor with a NEW one at a reasonable price? Looking for it to be local to corona/riverside.

Thanks.
 
That sounds like a reasonable price, considering a decent new motor is going to be 1800 to 2500, with another 600 in hard parts, and then labor.
 
I have never used him but everyone here recommends Russ pottenger at bishop buehll engines. For 4 grand you could have a nice stroker. My stocker was rebuilt by elite motorsports in Pomona for 1300. 6 year unlimited mile warranty. About 3 years ago
 
bails85 said:
I have never used him but everyone here recommends Russ pottenger at bishop buehll engines. For 4 grand you could have a nice stroker. My stocker was rebuilt by elite motorsports in Pomona for 1300. 6 year unlimited mile warranty. About 3 years ago
Click to expand...

You have any contact info for the shop you used?
 
Russ does good work. However, i don't know what he does removal and or installs.

Worth a shot to give him a call.
 
4k sounds very reasonable for a reputable shop thats still going to be there if you have a problem in a couple years. Motors are something you get what you pay for, if you want to gamble on a cheap job, go for it...just be prepared if something does happen next week, month, or a year later.
 
It misfires the number 3 and 4 cylinder. Apparently the computer is telling to fire twice on ignition when it should fire once is what I understood. Computer has been replaced, coil pack, cam and crank sensors, new timing chain and nothing fixed the misfire. It also idles low especially when it's cold outside.
 
Hmm, that is a strange one. But that's an electrical issue. Replacing the engine doesn't seem like a solution. Sounds like you guys have been doing everything you can to correct the issue though, have you looked at the grounding of everything? XJ's suffer from poor grounds. It might sound stupid but have you tried a different battery? I had a optima drop a cell on me once and it caused all kinds of weird electrical problems on my YJ. It started fine every time so I never thought it was the battery until I finally load tested it.
 
I hadnt tried a new battery never even crossed my mind? As for the grounds the mechanic ran a seperate dedicated ground for each sensor and also separate dedicated power wires to each sensor.
 
I put a used 80k mile motor in my 2000 XJ. Boght it from Sam at Jeeps Only in Pacoima for $1000 and its perfect. There's no way I would spend that kind of money on a stock motor. What year is your Jeep?
 
I picked up my motor off of a guy on craigslist in 08, I did the usual stuff, timing chain, gaskets water pump ect, its still running strong today.

I have about $600 into it. If you have a good friend to help out id suggest buying him a LOT of beer, a swap and rebuild can be done in a weekend if needed to ;)
 
What year is your jeep? 2000-2001? I've had the same problem for a while.
 
Well I had the same problem and swapped the motor and I still got the misfire.
 
Better_than_Tom said:
It misfires the number 3 and 4 cylinder. Apparently the computer is telling to fire twice on ignition when it should fire once is what I understood. Computer has been replaced, coil pack, cam and crank sensors, new timing chain and nothing fixed the misfire. It also idles low especially when it's cold outside.
Click to expand...
One of the maddening things about computers is that they do exactly what you tell them to. I think the computer is getting bad sensor data and that is causing the computer to do weird stuff. The computer triggers the spark based on what it gets from the crankshaft position sensor and the camshaft position sensor. Your mechanic has determined the computer is firing twice -- I take that to mean he has an oscilloscope to see what's going on. I suggest he look at the ECM inputs from those two sensors and see which has spurious switching. Then it's a matter of checking the wiring, sensor, and what triggers the sensor. For instance, if the gear on the distributor shaft (yeah, there's no distributor, but the shaft is still there to drive the rotor that the camshaft sensor senses) is badly worn, the cam position sensor comes up with screwy results, even though the sensor itself is fine.
 
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