Clayton products are hands down top notch. I would definitely recommend their products. He knows what he is doing.
Difference between links and leafs in a nutshell.
Leafs hold he axle in place and are used as a spring for the suspension so with that you never know exactly where your axle is going to be it can get pushed sideways or have axle wrap (winds up from axle torque) which can bind U-joints and bump stops are hard to get to last under the leafs.
But leafs are very staple it has pretty high roll center so you don't get much lean and the roll center doesn't move so very predictable. Leafs springs neutral position is not fully extended so you don't get the push off that coils have (coils neutral position is fully extended) That is why links sway more.
Leafs are also very easy to mount hard to mess up 4 points.
Leafs work very well for smaller wheeling rigs which you probably fall into that class no offense but once you start driving your rig like a buggy up and off every cliff and in very weird angles that's when you need a higher built rig.
Links are better but harder to setup and get the numbers right. setup right they can climb better have less wheel hop better approach depproach angles, and stronger, the axle stay where they were put so you can now have a good idea where the bump stops should go and you know things are going to clear.
You will probably be fine with leafs. I compete in RCrocs class 2 with a CJ leafs front and rear they work good for all the normal obstacles but when the get big like large drops and climbs that's where I fall short to the linked guys. I usually come in second to a guy running Clayton kit. I've done everything I can to limit my link travel I only have about 3" up travel in teh front and reversed the shackles and went to slider boxes got the heavy duty rubicon express spring over springs and still bend/break leaf springs on a regular basis I also need to use the high angle u-joints to prevent the axle wrap from binding my joints but I wheel the crap out of my rig driving on 1 tire to save rolls is normal I usually roll every time I'm out because I'm pushing the limits. I also snap D60 shafts on 35" tires.
I have tried to design a four link for the rear of this jeep but with all the calc's I can find are for a drag car. With our jeeps the center of gravity is much higher, which places the anti squat line at a much steeper angle. Additionally, I have NO IDEA where to put the instant center in relation to the anti squat line. I've debated just designing it two ways. First would be to put the frame mounts all in a line, so the suspension behaves like a ladder bar, but has the flex of 8 mounting places. The other was to place the instant center on the squat line at the center of gravity, but I can't get a definitive answer on whether this would work or not.
Thanks
You've just totally confused me.
Search pirate4x4 for 4link info racedezert has good info too.
Search for the 4link program excel program for calculating 4links anti squat roll center etc. the hard part is knowing what numbers you want.
Basically comes down to what you think is best and try it usually it will work some just work better.
So a Clayton 4 link kit will take a lot of guess work out of the picture. You know you will get something that will work great out of the box.
Good luck
~Justin
