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Just got myself a FREE XJ!

staticrevolution

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Beaverton, OR
Just scored myself a free XJ. Not sure of the condition of anything, heck I dont even know the year. This is going to be a chop top, no doors, no back seat, tube frame, no license plates, no registration, loud annoying, non recognizable, towed, strictly trail jeep whuddya think? Will post some pics tomorrow when I tow her home. Only thing I know about it is that it is a 2.5 stickshift that had a small enigne fire with minimal damage but it wouldn't start up. Can't wait to let the carnage begin! Should I stick with Jeep compenents for simplicities sake or should I do an engine drivetrain swap? Anyone have any ideas? Definetly going to be a base for a home done long arm setup! Should I chop the top all the way back or should I leave some roof over the front seats? What are the minimum requirements for trail use buggies? Brake lights and head lights? I am thinking just rip it up till there is nothing but sheet metal/supports and then build a complete tube frame for it with racing seats and lots of toggle switches.

Ideas and suggestions please =).

Alan
 
Do a search for OneTon's rig. It's about as buggy as you can get and still have some XJ left.

As far as engine swap: complete 4.0 drive-train wouldn't be that hard, but if you are going through the hassle (and don't have to worry about emissions for an off-road only vehicle), I'd go 5.0 Mustang engines. Keep the fuel injection.

From there depends on if you want stick or auto (personal preference). I like autos, and would do C4 or C6 (if you can find small block C6 bell-housing). You don't have to worry about overdrives. For a manual, there are a ton of options. Some with really low granny gears plus first-third.

Depends on $ as far as t-case goes. A few good choices would be D300, D20 and of course, Atlas.

Go 60s front and rear. If you don't go over 37s, a very well built 44 front will get you by, but usually, by the time you build a custom D44, you are over the 60 budget (you can get a 60 complete hub-hub with 4.56s for about $1000, just add a locker and you're good). You could also be real creative and go Unimog/Volvo portals. Plan to spend $2500 for front and rear just to get you in the door. If you do portals, stick with the 4 popper,stick, and 231, the portal gear are really low, and the 4 cyl will have enough power. It may be the cheapest option once you start looking at built 60s, new power plant, etc.

Do plenty of homework on link suspensions. Check Pirate and look at the 'God of Suspension' thread. Also Beezil started a pretty complete rear suspension thread a while back and I started what ended up being a pretty long front suspension thread also. It takes a couple books of graph paper to figure out your link suspension. Don't just through together a long arm. Long arms actually suck. So many people have to put limiting straps (band-aid fix) on them because the nature of a radius arm setup gives anti-dive (front) or anti-squat (rear) numbers that are through the roof and cause the suspensions to unload during a climb or descend. Design a proper 4 link rear (Beezil, OneTon), and 3 linked front (either 2 lowers and a wishbone upper [Beezil], or 2 lowers, one upper, and a track-bar [Goatman]). Don't forget, ground clearance is your friend.

Build the frame strong, but light. Use tube and triangulation (look up OneTon and Beezil). Also, check on Pirate for ideas on tube chassis.

Should be a really fun project. Someday I'd like to do one too, but that's way down the road.

Steve
 
Here it is!!! Fresh off the towbar... Looks like all it will take to get it running is a new valvecover! BTW Willis great suggestions! Can't wait to get started. For the imediate time being I am going to throw of some used tires and work out a cheap lift. Anyone ever dolly a rig with a welded rear axle? Or for that matter anyone ever towed a rig with a welded rear axle? My DD/tow rig has a welded rear end is this gonna effect towing? Also what manual trannies were availiable with the 4cly? Anyone run a strictly trail vehical with no front fenders? Anyways.... sawzall/cage party at my house in a couple of weeks!!!! :party:

Alan

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cut the entire top off and throw in a roll cage... that could look sweet, and definitely lower the center of gravity. this is a trailer rig right?

brandon
 
Well I was thiking rigging up some sort of dolley(sp) to drag this jeep around. I assume thats not gonna be toooo hard. Gonna start ripping out the interior today and get a new valvecover so that way at least I could drive it in and out of the garage.

Alan
 
staticrevolution said:
Just scored myself a free XJ. Not sure of the condition of anything, heck I dont even know the year. This is going to be a chop top, no doors, no back seat, tube frame, no license plates, no registration, loud annoying, non recognizable, towed, strictly trail jeep whuddya think? Will post some pics tomorrow when I tow her home. Only thing I know about it is that it is a 2.5 stickshift that had a small enigne fire with minimal damage but it wouldn't start up. Can't wait to let the carnage begin! Should I stick with Jeep compenents for simplicities sake or should I do an engine drivetrain swap? Anyone have any ideas? Definetly going to be a base for a home done long arm setup! Should I chop the top all the way back or should I leave some roof over the front seats? What are the minimum requirements for trail use buggies? Brake lights and head lights? I am thinking just rip it up till there is nothing but sheet metal/supports and then build a complete tube frame for it with racing seats and lots of toggle switches.

Ideas and suggestions please =).

Alan

Go Vortec 4.3/700r4.......and lots of toggles too.
 
staticrevolution said:
Here it is!!! Fresh off the towbar... Looks like all it will take to get it running is a new valvecover! BTW Willis great suggestions! Can't wait to get started. For the imediate time being I am going to throw of some used tires and work out a cheap lift. Anyone ever dolly a rig with a welded rear axle? Or for that matter anyone ever towed a rig with a welded rear axle? My DD/tow rig has a welded rear end is this gonna effect towing? Also what manual trannies were availiable with the 4cly? Anyone run a strictly trail vehical with no front fenders? Anyways.... sawzall/cage party at my house in a couple of weeks!!!! :party:

Alan

Alan,
I have a JD2 bender with a 1.75" die and a Miller 175 welder that you can help yourself to if you want to travel the 8 miles to Sherwood. I am in the process of building long arms for my 99 so I am always out in the garage. Let me know.

Later
Jaromy
 
Jeromy,

We oughta get together and talk Cherokees somtime! You wouldnt believe what I JUST bought, A Miller 175 and a protools #105 tube bender with a 270* 1.75 die. Great minds think alike! (still waiting on the tube bender though care of www.rockbuggysupply.com).... BTW do you have funky half doors in the front?

Alan
 
staticrevolution said:
Jeromy,

We oughta get together and talk Cherokees somtime! You wouldnt believe what I JUST bought, A Miller 175 and a protools #105 tube bender with a 270* 1.75 die. Great minds think alike! (still waiting on the tube bender though care of www.rockbuggysupply.com).... BTW do you have funky half doors in the front?

Alan

Sounds like your about to start having fun. Right now I have a completely stock 99 sitting in my driveway. I basically have everything from the 5.5" RE XJLA kit except the arms which I'm in the process of building now. I have my subframe done and I'm waiting on a few more superflex joints from RE to finish out my arms. We can get together anytime. I will be working in my garage all day tomorrow. I live right of 99W in Sherwood. You can see the back of my house from 99 right by the old Cherry Tree fruit stand. It's the one with the unfinished fence. Did you go to NHS? I graduated from there in 96.
 
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