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Having problems removing steering damper

W

wildman

NAXJA Forum User
Location
Jennings, LA
I removed the canister end with no problem, however, when I got to the other end, I pulled the cotter pin, and removed the castle nut, and can't get the bolt out. Is it just rusted that bad? I've been soaking it for 3 days so that it would be easy to remove, and it isn't. I tried putting a hardwood block against the bolt and pounding on it with a ballpean hammer. Then I took a large punch, just big enought to not damage the threads but still put a pretty good lick on it, and knocked the **** out of it with a maul. It never budged, not even a little bit. i noticed that there is a nut between the bushing and the link, but I can't turn it, not even with a cheater pipe(I tried this before I went to pounding on it). any suggestions? hit harder? turn harder?
 
why don't you try a pickle fork thats what they are for.are you replacing the steering damper .if you are what does it matter if you mess up the threads.you can put the castle nut back on a few turns till it is pretty flush with the top of the bolt and give that a good whack.
 
Its tapered like a TRE,pickle fork or TRE press!
 
When it lets go make sure nobody is standing in front if it and there is nothing breakable for 50ft, that friggin bolt comes out like a bullet.
 
Lol...I have a small chain wrapped around the damper, that way if I knock the living unowut out of it, it won't make a new drain plug for the motor oil in the bottom of the pan. It just seemed like a good idea. I'll get on it in the morning and see what I can do, thank u much guys,
wildman
 
tealcherokee said:
yeah, pickle fork is hadr to use in there, those things are tight, i used a puller and an impact gun
Click to expand...

After 2 hours of doing damage to myself I used a shop LOL...
 
I used a four-way lug wrench with two super-thick nylon zip ties around the damper and link. It still ended up whacking the oil pan pretty damn hard, so whatever you decide to do, just make sure you secure the damper. When that bastard lets go, it really lets go. The second time around it was the same thing, even though there were 45,000 fewer miles on the damper. Those tapered bolts really do their job the way they were meant to.
 
This **** thing is on there pretty good. I took an 8lb sledge to it(I know, that's a little much) and it never budged. What kinda puller are you talking about using with the impact gun? I have the gun, just not sure how I'd use it to get that bolt out.
 
I used a torch to get it real hot, then one whack with the BFH got it off.
 
yep. after busting my knuckles under there for a couple hours i gave up on mine and drove it to a shop and paid 35 bucks for the install. well worth it when its 100 degrees outside and the damn thing isnt budging.
 
Take off the drag link. Lay it down on an anvil, vise, block of steel, whatever. Not concrete as you'll chip it. Take a big hammer and hit really hard on the drag link where the damper's stud passes through.

Pickle forks are generally unnecessary and tear up the rubber boots on tie rods. The hammer outboard of the taper works almost every time.
 
I used a pitam arm puller, cranked it down tight and gave the bolt on the puller a little wack with a 5lb hammer. DONE.
 
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