How To Transfer D35 Shock Mount Brackets to C8.25?

I accidentally broke the threaded segment of the shock mounting stud off one of my C8.25 shock mounts. My primary concern is how to ensure the D35 brackets are properly located before welding them on the C8.25 tube. I am going out to take measurements now and remove the D35 brackets. My guess is that I should be able to place the shock stud in the same location but wanted to ask to make sure I give correct instructions to the machine shop..

Please let me know. I am taking this to the machine shop Monday.

Way to much work. Google it. A couple different fixes for that which are so much easier the what you plan.

I do not care for the stud replacement kits.

The JKS OGS922 and Zone Offroad J5859 are better options.

The OGS922 is all I have ever used, they've allowed me to move my mounts out and up.

They are certainly much heavier than the J5859. My concern with using either of these is how to determine if they require new rear shocks...without putting my rear suspension back together.

JKS discusses mounting details of the OGS922 in their installation instructions for the adjustable cross-over shock mount (OGS999). The OGS999 lowers the upper shock mount yet JKS clearly states new shocks are required if the owner does not install the OGS922 at the same time. Unfortunately, these instructions do not state how much the 922 raises the lower mount. It does tell the installer to locate the 922 on the center line of the leaf spring perch. This suggests this ~ 1.75" horizontal offset toward the backing plate compensates for the increase in raising the lower mount. I have never seen the 999 but suspect it must move the top shock mounts inward toward the center line of the vehicle some as well.

I suspect each vehicle is different. I have early Bilstein 5100's and 2" lift. I think I have to assemble my rear suspension to know if these high clearance mounts will work.

Done. Not pleasant but if I were smarter...the D35 brackets would have been removed sooner. Once I cut away what I thought to be a sufficient amount of material at the welds (outside of the brackets) I began using a mason's hammer in an inverted manner striking the face w/3 lb and 5 lb hand sledge hammers - on the opposite side of the brackets (interior) and this helped me create small cracks.