Something new...No start problem

1998 XJ 4.0L Automatic
Hey guys, a few weeks ago I had a no crank/no start and determined it to be the NSS. Got that fixed and now I have a crank/no start issue. My gut says CPS.
When I put the key in, no dashboard lights, gauges, no radio, nothing. Only thing that works is interior lights. If I fiddle the key into the run position and wiggle it a little bit, I can usually get radio but it's all static. If I just sit there with it for a few minutes, I'll get radio signal and every now and then the dashboard lights and gauges will come on and the CEL is on but whenever I go to read the code the reader tells me there is no CEL on.
98% of the time when I turn the key, it cranks but no start. The other 2% of the time there's a loud noise like the engine is trying to crank but can't. When this happens, the main engine pulley moves like an inch.

Begin with basic trouble shooting of the start and charge systems. Remove, clean, and firmly reconnect all the wires and cables to the battery, starter, and alternator. Look for corroded or damaged cables or connectors and replace as needed. Copper wires should be copper color, not black or green. Do the same for the grounding wires from the starter to engine block, the ground wires at the coil, and the ground wires from the battery and engine to the Jeep's frame/body. You must remove, scrape, and clean until shiny, the cable/wire ends, and whatever they bolt to. Jeeps do not tolerate low voltage, bad connections, or poor grounds.

Once you are sure the basics are solid, you should test the CPS. You should also consider the possibility that the ignition switch and/or the starter is faulty.

What he said.

If fiddling with the key helps at all, you should check the ignition switch.

I just went through this same issue last week on my '98.

Mine was two fold. The first issue was a loose battery connection, as a result of recently installing a new OEM-CPS. Removed the clamps, cleaned and then re-snugged down real good. That helped a lot as I did get it to start., but I still has some intermittent starting issues, that pointed to the ignition switch.

The key tumbler was so worn that the key would pull out in any position. I figure now's the time to fix that as long as I am going to replace the ignition switch itself. I wound up replacing the key cylinder, the ignition switch and the actuator ignition pin assembly; since all these moving parts were probably worn after 20 years of use.

Before I installed it all, I did get the key cylinder re-keyed to match my doors. That was $25 at the local locksmith.

Replacement parts go in sort of easy...some wrangling, but do-able. There's a YouTube video ( https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=f3vbCZIxjoU ) on the installation process, that is about 8 minutes long, but the process took me about 2 hours on figuring things out. You will need a "tamper proof" T10 torx bit to remove part of the lower column plastic cover, and the actual ignition switch itself. For the column bolt, you need a long screwdriver length type of bit. I used a cheap torx folding set from HF to reach that tiny bolt. Don't bother reinstalling it at the end, as the other mount screws work just fine. I think this bolt was installed as a deterrent to slow thieves down some.

For the ignition switch itself, there's enough clearance there to use regular T10 tamper proof torx bit to remove and reinstall.

Everything feels nice and "tight" now, and starts up just fine.

Here's the stuff I bought:

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Switch-Kit-MOPAR-4565326/162493637771?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Ignition-Lock-Cylinder-Dorman-924-703/401109641433?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Dorman-Steering-Column-Mounted-Ignition-Switch-Actuator-Pin-for-Dodge-Chrysler/310692724582?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m2749.l2648